Installed Monroe Load Leveling Shocks on Rear

[cico7]

So , i am still kinda confused. With a 2" lift, the OEM replacements will lift the rear about 1/2". With the longer replacements, the rear will raise about
1 1/2". Is the is correct?

Next with a load, both will drop the same amount?

[Matt]

So , i am still kinda confused. With a 2" lift, the OEM replacements will lift the rear about 1/2".

Yes

So , i am still kinda confused. With a 2" lift, With the longer replacements, the rear will raise about
1 1/2".

Yes

Next with a load, both will drop the same amount?

No

Given an equal load, the longer version will drop the rear less because they are starting with more pre-load.

Think of it this way, you have two springs there now. For you to reach the same height as the OEM replacements you'd have to add enough load to drop the rear down 1". If you added that same load to the vehicle with the OEM replacements it would also deflect. So the truck with the longer Monroe's will still be taller.

[cico7]

If you added that same load to the vehicle with the OEM replacements it would also deflect. So the truck with the longer Monroe's will still be taller.

I understand it would be taller but are both going to drop the same amount? If you put 500 on both, do both drop 1/4"(example)

[Matt]

I understand it would be taller but are both going to drop the same amount? If you put 500 on both, do both drop 1/4"(example)

Ah.... now that's a damn good question.

Off the top of my head, I would guess that the longer shocks would deflect a little more than the OEM version in this case. Not sure how much... but it'd probably be minimal.

See the coil built into the shock isn't very strong. The reason it lifts the rear is simply by taking some load off of the main suspension coil. Since the vehicle with the OEM replacements is being supported primarily by the suspension coil, which has a higher spring rate, there may be less overall deflection there.

If I knew the actual spring rates and lengths of all the coils involved I'd be able to tell you with more certainty.

What I can tell you for certain is that once the longer version is loaded down enough to match the ride height of the unloaded OEM version, you'd need considerably more weight added to get the rear to "sag" since spring force is a function of displacement... and that longer coil has been displaced a significant amount to match the height of the OEM replacement which, by the way, has to compress another 2" to get to the force it was "designed" to be used at (since our 2" spacer lift extends the shocks 2" further than normal)

[Matt]

I may have to hold off until I upgrade my front springs

No problem homie, i dont want to go higher just stiffen the ride a bit.

Hey man... now that im upgrading my front springs, you still interested in these shocks?

[IamJEEP]

Hey man... now that im upgrading my front springs, you still interested in these shocks?

Yes, but I will have to fit them into my spending budget. What kinda time frame we talking here?

[Matt]

Whenever you get around to it. I have my stock shocks I can throw on until the longer ones come... so you say the word, they'll be off & shipped the next day and i'll order the longer ones when i get a chance

[IamJEEP]

Ok, I'll let you know.

[Sal-XK]

Well, to keep being honest with my fellow jeepers and I will never sugar coat a part no matter who or how I got it from or ended up using them. I will post a little bit of my review here. Monroe customer service is pitiful I have sent to messages threw there online form and still have not received a reply. Matt and I figured out that my rubber sleeve has slipped to the bottom of the shock and caused my spring to rub the actual shock body making an awe full squeaking sound in the back. I added a washer to them and some marine grade grease to the spring to shut it up. Now I have to take the messed one up apart and epoxy the boot back in place. Other then those two issues they are working great for me.

[Matt]

I'll probably throw some epoxy on mine before i install them, just to make sure those rubber sleeves stay in place.

For those wondering what we're talking about, you can see the rubber sleeve in the picture below. It basically prevents metal-on-metal contact between the coil spring and the shock body. Sal's slid down to the bottom and caused some noise.



Luckily, taking the spring off is EASY. The spring seats on the top cap, shown on the right in the pic below, has a slot in it. So you simply compress the spring slightly by and and slide the cap off because the slot is wide enough to clear the piston, then the coil spring just slides up and off. R&R is maybe 5 minutes.