Matt's Pinch Weld "How To"

[Matt]

I've seen quite a few "hacked up" pinch welds. Figured i'd modify mine and take some pictures along the way, hopefully mitigating fears that other members may have. Done properly, it'll look factory and give you almost 1.5" more clearance for tires.


1) Remove fender well liner
This is pretty simple. Best way to get the plastic rivets off is to punch the center through with a small philips screwdriver. Once you punch the center through, they pull right out. Then there's two more push clips that you can use dikes (diagonal cutters/snips/et) to pull out.

2) Remove the TPMS receiver and tuck away somewhere safe. This is a bit more challenging on the passenger side because one of the screws is hidden by the coolant lines... but they flex right out of the way.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20110930102015-1.jpg

3) Cut slices in pinch weld as shown... this will allow you to bend over the pinch weld much easier and cleaner.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20110930102915-1.jpg

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20110930102920-1.jpg

4) I used a big pair of vice grips to bend over the pinch weld. Get it as far as possible, then flatten it out with a hammer (i used a 3lb sledge). Then clean the surface so its nice and smooth for primer.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20110930104533-1.jpg

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20110930104528-1.jpg

5) I put a lot of coats on and make sure you shoot some behind the bends you created.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20110930105043-1.jpg

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20110930110448-1.jpg

6) After it dries, put the liner back in. NOTE: DO NOT PUT THE TPMS RECEIVER BACK IN PLACE YET!! Secure the front of the liner with as many clips as you want since it wont be coming back out. Secure the rear section of the liner with the push clip on the body and a zip tie on the lower fender flare mount as shown.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20110930120039-1.jpg

[Matt]

7) This part is a bit tricky and im not sure how to explain my method of molding the shape of the liner... you'll figure it out, just be patient. Just use a heat gun (i used a cheapy one that i bought in college for building an airplane) and a pair of heavy gloves. Heat up the liner and shape it for extra clearance. I had a spray bottle with water.... this helped because i was able to hold the liner how i wanted, then spray it with water so it would cool down quicker to keep its form.

This is also why you don't want to put the TPMS receiver back in place before this step, it would get damaged from the heat.

This is also more challenging on the passenger side because of the coolant lines. They don't allow you to mold the liner as far back as you can on the drivers side.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20110930120326-1.jpg

^^^^ It's hard to see in the pictures, but the first thing i did was heat up the part of the liner that's convex outwards, then push it in so its concave inwards (this is where you get the bulk of the clearance). When you do that, the bottom of the liner is going to flip towards the wheel well and decrease clearance, but dont worry. After you get that "rubbing" area as concave as possible, make sure you cool the liner down with water. THEN, heat the bottom of the liner below the concave area and flex it back/under the jeep. This results in a really smooth and clean transition. This is actually important because if you're flexing offroad, there wont be an edge for the tire to grip onto and rip up the liner, so if you do rub while flexing the tread will just rub on the liner and not cause damage.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20110930122145-1.jpg

Here are a few pictures to show the concave sections and how the bottom folds under. Also, FYI, the fender liner is all the way up against the firewall (well, up against the bent pinch weld)... so you gain A LOT of tire clearance via this method.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20111001084733-1.jpg

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20111001084738-1.jpg

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20111001084802-1.jpg

8) After you're done shaping the liner, you'll need to pull the rear section away and touch up some of the paint.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20110930122336-1.jpg

[Matt]

9) Once the paint is dry, re-install TPMS Receiver

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20110930124017-1.jpg

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20110930135550-1.jpg

10) Install liner.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20110930124554-1.jpg

11) Last step for me is to strategically place a zip tie to pull the liner back and hold it "firmly" in place. On the passenger side, I put a second zip tie in the liner right where the coolant lines are and tied the liner to the metal bend in the coolant line.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20110930124543-1.jpg

__________________________________________________ ______________
__________________________________________________ ______________
SPECIALTY PARTS THAT YOU MAY NOT HAVE:

For the fender well install you'll need a plastic rivet gun and rivets.

You can get the rivet gun from harbor freight item # 97757: See if this link works (http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-riveter-with-40-industrial-strength-poly-rivets-97757.html)
You can also get the heat gun from there for cheap, item * 96289 : Hope this one works too (http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html)
^^FYI my heat gun is only 400F... the low setting on that one is 500F and a high setting of 1100F!! I'd use the low setting if i were you.... 400 was enough for me to accidentally melt my liner in a few places

That set comes with a few of the properly sized rivets. For the rest, you can get them from Mcmaster, Napa, etc. I order a lot of stuff through McMaster so I use part number 90219A340. It's $6.24 for a pack of 20... you'll need 1 pack for the front pinch weld mod.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20110907194507-1.jpg


COST:
Rivet Gun $15
Heat Gun $15
Rivets $10
Paint $4

So if you dont have anything, this mod will cost you ~$45-$50... AND you'll now have a rivet gun that you need for other mods/maintenance on your XK/WK. Heat guns come in handy for other things as well... I don't remember what else i used it for, but i know ive used it at least a few times in my house... (winter window film is one off the top of my head)

[Matt]

These two pics work well as a before/after:

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20110930120039-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20110930124554-1.jpg

[sean112280]

great write up Matt. It came out really good too.

[Matt]

Thanks!

I just added a bit more info and pics that should help.

[DetroitMarauder]

Great thread. Much more clear than a couple others I have seen.

After you hammered down the pinch weld you said to clean it up before painting. What did you use to do that? What kind of paint did you use?

[Matt]

To clean it up I just used a 3M surface prep disc for my air tool.... any sand paper will do. Basically you want to clean off any cracked paint since those are areas that will still peel away after you repaint. You don't have to bring it down to the bare metal everywhere, you just need smooth transitions so the paint holds.

For paint i just used rustoleum rust preventing primer primer.

[Sal-XK]

I copied the technical parts to the How to thread and left this one so people can still have a place to ask you questions.

[Matt]

sounds good. thanks.

[SkidMarx]

FYI, this method worked great.
Couple of notes
-Use a 5lb hammer and don't be afraid to give it a good whack.
-I shot it with some rattle can undercoating. Especially behind the fold where I couldn't be sure I got good coverage with the paint.

[Matt]

Once i got it folded over a bit using the vice grips, it bent the rest of the way easily using a 3lb sledge. Not very hard to do at all.

[SkidMarx]

Once i got it folded over a bit using the vice grips, it bent the rest of the way easily using a 3lb sledge. Not very hard to do at all.
I don't have a 3lb, but I do have a 5lb, which is what I actually used. I've corrected my previous post. Didn't need the BFH.

[Matt]

hahahahahaha... i was going to say man, a 10lb is a bit overkill!!

Yeah, a 5 lb will work just the same :D

[06blkhemi]

Matt,Nice write up!Getting ready to do this myself.. Another little trick I did with my XJ when I cut and folded my pinch welds. Glob up the folded over pinch weld with some silicone,before and after you fold it. Then hit it with a can of undercoating. It just makes sure no water gets into the weld and it starts rusting!!

Frank..

[Matt]

In my step 5 when i say "make sure you shoot some behind the bend you created", i think that's a bit of an understatement on my part..... i sprayed so much primer back there that it was basically pouring out the bottom. :)

[Lt_JWS]

great write up, just did mine. I also did this:

1079

All i did was push the inner fender tight against the body and use a sharp pick to make a new hole.
It works well on the drivers side the passenger i think im gonna do what you did with the zip tie.

[sean112280]

So I am going to have to do this. My tires just now started rubbing this past week. What would cause them to just now start rubbing?

[Sal-XK]

What condition are they rubbing in?


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[Matt]

Installed any armor recently?

[sean112280]

They rub backing out of spots, and turning.

No Matt, no armor

[Sal-XK]

They rub backing out of spots, and turning.

No Matt, no armor

That seems normal, matt was asking because it seems like you suspension settled like you added weight. Are your struts new? Sometimes when just having your jeep on a lift it takes a little time for the suspension to settle. So if you just added a 2" lift and rubber it might not rub right a way but will once things settle.


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[sean112280]

Nothing has changed at all. I just started this past week. Hasn't done it at all since I got the tires and rims from Matt

[Sal-XK]

Nothing has changed at all. I just started this past week. Hasn't done it at all since I got the tires and rims from Matt

How long ago did you install? What lift are you running? I can't see your sig on my phone.


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[Matt]

I remember them being pretty close when we put them on.

Is it catching the front of the liner or the rear? Maybe throw on a few zip ties to pull the liner back.

Have you gained some weight lately? hmmm????

[Matt]

How long ago did you install? What lift are you running? I can't see your sig on my phone.



That was right before he left.... Octoberish? He's just running the JBA spacers

[sean112280]

Yea I may just have to do the zip tie thing

[Matt]

UPDATE:

Hey guys. one of my last steps was to use zip-ties to pull the plastic liner firm against the body/pinch-weld. Well, I just did this mod again for a friend this weekend and had a better idea!

Driver Side (& passenger side w/o rear HVAC):
Use a 1/4" drill and just put another plastic rivet on the firewall to pull the liner back and hold it in place Does a much better job than zip ties!

Passenger side:
Since the A/C lines don't allow the use of a rivet, I drilled a hole and used a tree-clip (can get them at Lowe's) in between the HVAC lines and bent pinch weld. Then used a self tapping screw outboard of the pinch weld.

Another trick- A creme-brule torche works great for manipulating/shaping the plastic fender well also!

[Sal-XK]

I used a torch on mine got a keep it moving it melts fast LOL


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[Pixelcodex]

Great write up. I will eventually do this when I get bigger tires. I had seen other step-by-steps, but none as clear as yours. Hopefully, it applies the same to the WK.

Questions:
• Is there are reason why you primed it and then heated up the liner? It seems to me you "ruined" some of your own work with the heat gun and then had to retouch it. I am sure I am missing something, so I figured I would ask.
• Also, are the cuts angled in (sort of like in a slight V) when you say "cut as shown"?

Thanks,

Fernando

[Matt]

Thanks Fernando. The process is the same for the WK.

The reason I primed it first was because it was easier to spray the whole area With the liner out, then just touch up the small section that got messed up with the heat gun. Other than that, it doesn't really matter.

The cuts are slight triangular shapes so the pinch weld sits flat when folded over. If you just put a few slices they'll overlap each other and stick out further. The only angles that matter are the top and bottom most cuts.... the rest may have a slight angle just to do blade position.

[Pixelcodex]

Thanks Fernando. The process is the same for the WK.

The reason I primed it first was because it was easier to spray the whole area With the liner out, then just touch up the small section that got messed up with the heat gun. Other than that, it doesn't really matter.

The cuts are slight triangular shapes so the pinch weld sits flat when folded over. If you just put a few slices they'll overlap each other and stick out further. The only angles that matter are the top and bottom most cuts.... the rest may have a slight angle just to do blade position.

Gotcha. Cool. I will hopefully get to do it when I have time to work on mine.

[JumpmasterRT]

UPDATE:
Passenger side:
Since the A/C lines don't allow the use of a rivet, I drilled a hole and used a tree-clip (can get them at Lowe's) in between the HVAC lines and bent pinch weld. Then used a self tapping screw outboard of the pinch weld.Just anywhere, a specific place or will I know when I see it?

[Matt]

Yeah anywhere inbetween them. I put it far enough up so the tire wouldn't hit it if/when it rubs

[adud83]

Hey Matt were you ever able to get those pictures of where to put the screws in the liner to hold it back instead of reforming it? Thanks.


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[Matt]

I did.... gotta check and see if I uploaded them (clearly I forgot to post em!)

[adud83]

Sweet, thanks man! That bumper looks awesome by the way.


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[Matt]

Thanks!

Here you go man. It's pretty simple... i basically put the screw in a location where the tire wouldn't hit it. On the passenger side I went about 1" away from where the rear HVAC lines are.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20140108220431_zpsbf66d610-1.jpg

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20140108220440_zps69ca4f50-1.jpg

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20140108220500_zpsce59c7b9-1.jpg

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2011/09/20140108220508_zpscebec438-1.jpg

[adud83]

Thanks Matt. Looks like u used one screw on each side, is that correct? Looks easy enough to me. It's almost time to put the Rubicon wheels and tires on.


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[Matt]

Yup, one screw per side has worked most of the time. On two of the pinch welds i've done I'd added an extra screw on one of the sides, far outboard, because of how the liner was bending. Seems as though every vehicle has its own personality :)

A few tips for the passenger side if you have rear HVAC:
1) Before taking the liner off, use a small drill bit to drill a hole through the wheel well liner and make a mark on the firewall about between 1 and 2 inches away from where the HVAC lines are. Once the liner is off, pre-drill the firewall.
2) Cut away as much from the plastic HVAC line guide as possible. It sticks out further than it needs to and you'll gain almost 1/2" more clearance.
3) Because of the HVAC lines you'll want to tighten the screw on this side by hand. If you go too far the liner will start bulging out where the HVAC lines are.