Brakes..?

[ItsMeKO3]

So recently I've developed a bad brake squeak, and I've been having an occasional brake dragging noise on my WK. I don't know much at all about brakes, so excuse my ignorance lol. I haven't been able to pinpoint exactly what the dragging noise is yet.. or what's causing it. But it seems like its coming from the left front. I also need knew brake pads. I don't have a shudder or any vibration when braking, so my question is can I get away with just putting new pads on and not new rotors? I know this probably isn't best thing to do, but $ is a little tight right now. So if I can get by with my current rotors, I'd like to for now. Thanks for any help.

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[Matt]

Ive "slapped pads" on vehicles. Sometimes it works, sometimes you end up with more brake squeal.

If you're getting a dragging noise caused by rust build up on the rotors edges and/or grooves worn in the face of the rotor, you're better off replacing them.

[ItsMeKO3]

That could be my issue with the dragging. The outer edges and on the inner part, like the middle of the rotor and pretty rusty. Any suggestions on where to get pads and rotors? Brands?

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[Matt]

For rotors I recommend Centric Premiums (~$47ea) and pads id go with Akebono (~$63). Theres cheaper pad options like Wagner's for ~$30 if moneys tight.

Check out rockauto and find a 5% discount code.

[ItsMeKO3]

Great thanks Matt. When I got home from work I went out to see if I could find the "dragging" noise. I finally found it. It is the left front, and on the inside of the rotor there is some kind of metal plate, or shield maybe? (Again, excuse my ignorance, I don't know much about these things lol). On the bottom, it seems like it is dragging on the rotor, or on something. I layed underneath and just rolled the Jeep a tiny bit with my hand, and I could hear it dragging. Then I pulled it away from the rotor with one hand and again rolled it with my other, and there was no noise. I tried to shows on the next couple pictures where it seems to be dragging. Hopefully someone will be able to understand lol.

https://theultimatejeep.com/notfound.png
https://theultimatejeep.com/notfound.png

While I was under there, I noticed what seems to be some kind of leak, so I started another topic with some pics of that. Sorry for being such a pain in the ass today lol.

[Matt]

That's just the dust shield. Problem solved! They tend to make a lot of noise when they catch rocks/mud when wheeling lol.

[ItsMeKO3]

Lol what can I do to stop it from dragging?

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[Matt]

Exactly what you did... just bend it.

[pjmjr508]

glad you fixed it, I have the same issue when wheelin when getting a rock stuck in between that plate & rotor.

one thing I do want to say, is don't auto think you need to replace the rotor when you do brakes, you can "TURN" the rotors if it is still within spec and then you can slap new pads on it. this will prevent squealing. Any brake shop or auto part store can check if with in spec.

[Matt]

^^ That is true.
But also consider the cost, which will probably vary a lot. Some shops around me charge $40+ to do it.

It's often not much more money to get new rotors.Then you dont have to worry about taking your brakes apart, driving another vehicle to a shop to have the rotors turned and hope the trainee tech does a decent job (doesn't turn them too fast or use dull teeth). For how often we need to change brakes on vehicles these days, I'm a fan of spending $80-$100 for a good set of rotors and slapping everything on in a matter of 30 minutes and calling it a day :D

[pjmjr508]

True, I have upgraded mine so it is cheaper to get turned for me.
Plus I have to take to a real brake shop to have them turned because they are slotted & dimpled.

I see your point if running OEM

With turning OEM one's here where I live they charge 10.00 per rotor to turn them so equals out to 40.00 for all 4.

[ItsMeKO3]

Well I really appreciate all the help guys. The amount of knowledge on these forums is incredible. I would be helpless without you guys. I'll be going out tomorrow to try and bend that shield a bit more so it stops. I was scared to move it to much because I wasn't sure what it was lol.

Matt, I wish you lived just a litttttlllleeee closer so you could help me with doing all this work myself lol.

[Matt]

How far are you from Adam? I know he's usually good for helping out. :)

[ItsMeKO3]

I'm not sure where he lives. I'm in Canton NY, which is waaayyy up north. Like 2.5 hours north of Syracuse. Its only 20 min to the Canadian border.

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[07JeepXK]

I'm in western NY but am up for a road trip. I get back from Mississippi on Friday.

[BonesWK]

I'm pretty sure I have warped front rotors, anyone have experience with Rock Auto brake kits or rotors? Are the standard ones fine, do I really need slotted and drilled? Money is tight, since I will need tires in the near future as well

[oleblue27]

Go with ebc dimpled and slotted! Best rotors I've ever had.

[07JeepXK]

Go with ebc dimpled and slotted! Best rotors I've ever had.

Yeah but he said money is tight and EBC is expensive

[Matt]

Centric black rotors. They're the only thing I use on my vehicles as well as customers at the shop. Dont bother with dimpled/slotted... more gimmick/bling than actual gain imo.

[BonesWK]

Yeah but he said money is tight and EBC is expensive

true story. Wish i could get the crazy nice rotors...

Matt, there are a couple of those centric options on Rock Auto, which one do you run? Economy, DD?

Pads too? Seems pads on there are NOT ceramic and dust like crazy

[Matt]

Matt, there are a couple of those centric options on Rock Auto, which one do you run? Economy, DD?

Pads too? Seems pads on there are NOT ceramic and dust like crazy

The premium ones listed under DD.

For pads i recommend Akebono OE Ceramics (ProACT) listed in the Heavy Duty section.

[Matt]

dont forget to find a 5% discount code before ordering

[thance]

Centric black rotors. They're the only thing I use on my vehicles as well as customers at the shop. Dont bother with dimpled/slotted... more gimmick/bling than actual gain imo.

While they may be a gimmick, I never had any issues with the cross drilled slotted rotors I put on my supercharged Bronco and with drums in the back and the power and weight characteristics I imagine they were put to the test a number of times. I likely had 130,000 miles on them when I sold with no issues.

Don't remember the brand or model or if something compatible is available for the xk.

[Matt]

I agree they won't hurt anything (unless you get cheapie drilled ones that crack). My response was directly related to the question of "do i need drilled/slotted?", in which the answer is absolutely not. I've got nothing against some of the badass brakes out there (EBC/Stillen/etc)... if someone wants to run the best brakes money can buy, do it. It's part of the fun of "modding" our rigs. But for someone looking for quality brakes that wont break the bank (nice pun?), the cost/performance ratio of drilled/slotted isn't worth it.

[lekmedm]

Drilled and/or slotted are fine for street. I don't think they are a good idea for offroad conditions. The potential of getting small stones or grit from mud stuck in there doesn't sound so great.

Sent from wherever my Jeep takes me.

[pjmjr508]

Drilled and/or slotted are fine for street. I don't think they are a good idea for offroad conditions. The potential of getting small stones or grit from mud stuck in there doesn't sound so great.

Sent from wherever my Jeep takes me.
By Matt
Centric black rotors. They're the only thing I use on my vehicles as well as customers at the shop. Dont bother with dimpled/slotted... more gimmick/bling than actual gain imo.

I have the EBC Slotted & Dimpled rotors & EBC pads & I love it. They do add better stopping power over stock, now I do agree if your on a tight budget these are not for you. But I do not agree that they are a gimmick. If you can afford them I would highly recommend them. They work really well while wheelin because they help to clear out stones caught between the dust cover & the rotor.

[Matt]

Anytime you replace old stock glazed over rotors and old hardened stock pads you're going to feel a huge boost in stopping performance. I've put more brakes on vehicles than I can count, including every combination of dimpled/slotted/cross-drilled. Having properly trued and heat treated rotors combined with quality ceramic pads is where real stopping power, that lasts, comes from. I guarantee if I did a blind test and swapped your rotors/pads with the Centric +Akebono combo I use, you wouldn't notice a difference.

Now, again, I'm not saying the EBCs are bad. Nor am I saying they aren't "better". What I'm saying is that the actual performance gains are minimal for 99.9% of the driving we do so to directly answer Bones's question of "do I need them", its a simple "no".

Put another way.... no one "needs" high priced fancy rotors any more than I "need" resi-shocks. If someone has the cash and wants the best on the market, well you know me.... I'm all for going all out! But no one should feel as if they "need" those brakes. If they can't afford them, there are in fact affordable quality parts that will perform great, and likely be indistinguishable. Just my experience and $.02 worth :)

Edit: thinking back.... "gimmick" probably wasn't the right word since there is some logic in the design and potential gains to be had. Other than that, I stand by everything else I've said. :p

[BonesWK]

The premium ones listed under DD.

For pads i recommend Akebono OE Ceramics (ProACT) listed in the Heavy Duty section.

Thanks Matt - you are the man.