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Matt
02-24-2013, 02:34 PM
For anyone looking to maximize rear travel/articulation offroad, you'll want to extend the passenger side brake line. Easiest method is to drop the bracket down. Doesn't have to be pretty.... here's what I ended up with using some scrap material.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2013/02/20130216202127_zpsc53b528d-1.jpg

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2013/02/20130216202142_zps865564ad-1.jpg

For the driver-side I didn't drop mine down yet. It's not as big of an issue because the gas tank is the limiting factor (even with the skid cut):

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2013/02/20130224142658_zpsb63bf768-1.jpg

Note that with the control arm hitting the skid tank, center-to-center of the shocks is 27.5" (the top of the tape is on the top of the bolt, so that's the reference point- not the center of the bolt in the picture)

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2013/02/20130224142748_zps53eea2f5-1.jpg

07JeepXK
02-24-2013, 06:27 PM
I need to do this someday

p@55w0rd
02-24-2013, 07:52 PM
Thanks for the pic's and info!
Is this necessary for the front lines?

Matt
02-24-2013, 08:00 PM
Is this necessary for the front lines?

Nope. Our IFS doesn't have enough travel, even modified, to worry about the brake lines.

thance
02-25-2013, 12:38 PM
Looks like you cut the gas tank skid deeper than I did.... does the upper control arm sit on the tank now when all the way down? I was trying to keep it a little on the skid.

On a separate note, do you have enough washers on the drop bracket????????? ;)

thance
02-25-2013, 12:45 PM
I was just think that lowering the gas tank would be antiproductive to ground clearance, however, if you were to take the heat gun to it and slope the back edge where the control arm sits, you may be able to gain another inch or more of droop.

Has anyone tried this?

Matt
02-25-2013, 01:01 PM
I dont think it'll be worth the trouble. The most you'll gain by modifying the gas tank is ~1/2" more travel, and thats assuming you're running 28" long shocks. Most shocks are 27.5" or less which means the shocks will limit travel before the gas tank does.

The next step up in shock size is not practical with our 2-3" lifts because the compressed lengths are too long.

Im not worried about the control are hitting the tank there. The tank is very thick and there's only axle weight at that point. Although if I had some foresight when I was cutting the skid I would have left just enough so the arm contacted both at full drop.

thance
02-25-2013, 01:52 PM
So then......... if there were more to be gained you might take the heat gun to the gas tank?????

....cuz I was just playin.

Matt
02-25-2013, 01:56 PM
We've had members remove doors.... I put nothing past this group! :)

valpacer
02-26-2013, 12:01 AM
Matts right on with the shocks, however i would still put a drop bracket on the tank side brake line as well, as at that droop there is still pressure on the line, which you dont want.

Interestingly, the SL shocks in the kit are actually 28", which surprised me a bit when i got the kit. I run a 32" shock with my lift, which once you have the SL brackets on the UCA's in the rear it puts the arms in the same spot at 32" of shock extension. The shocks that come with the OME kits are under 26" in length as well.

Its the same reason i am not a fan of the JBA long arm rear for the WK. It still uses the SL brackets and straight arm UCA's on the rear, so no more travel than i have now with the standard length arms. When we go long arm on mine we are relocating the tank with an LRA tank (ends up where the spare was) and the tank will go. Its the only way you can get real articulation with these.

Oops, got a bit off track, Id recommend you do both sides with the bracket, nice job on the home fab Matt!

Dave
Dave

Matt
02-26-2013, 04:25 AM
Thanks Dave.

Just to clarify I am doing the drivers side too. I just didn't get around to it and wanted to point out its not as much of a concern because of the limited travel. So yes, it still should be done but you're also not going to rip the line off.

When I do the drivers side im going to re-do the passenger side with a nicer bracket. That really is just a temp job but worth showing that it doesnt have to be pretty to be functional. :)

lekmedm
02-26-2013, 07:30 AM
.... it doesnt have to be pretty to be functional. :)

But back in the '80s, didn't Fernando (Billy Crystal) say ...it's better to look good than to feel good... ? :D

Matt
02-26-2013, 08:00 AM
I was watching Mighty Max and Duck Tales in the 80s lol

lekmedm
02-26-2013, 08:34 AM
I was watching Mighty Max and Duck Tales in the 80s lol

Wow... This was 1985... I was in high school. Let me educate you:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hXydX9p_ZxA

Matt
03-29-2013, 04:43 PM
Made the extension for the drivers side today. 20 minutes and some aluminum, topped off with black enamel and all good to go.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2013/03/20130329151555_zps235f0e55-1.jpg

Matt
04-14-2013, 07:23 AM
Another update. Finally got around to relocating the ABS sensor connector mount. On the driver-side it gets tight. So I drilled 2 new mounting holes to bring it down further. Now it has plenty of slack.

OLD LOCATION: The two holes near each other

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2013/04/20130413115429_zps5747b4e7-1.jpg

NEW HOLES: Drilled new holes (left side of pic, old holes in background), sprayed everything with black enamel for protection

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2013/04/20130413120825_zps58e274d3-1.jpg

DONE

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2013/04/20130413120833_zpsea3c7aa5-1.jpg

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2013/04/20130413121209_zpsaacbc48b-1.jpg