Looking for some direction.

[jumpoffjoe]

Hello People!

First, I better introduce myself. My name is Joe. I live out here in the middle of nowhere Western South Dakota. I manage a commercial bison ranch for a living. I'm a coyote hunter/fly fisherman who enjoys camping in the summer months. I have a few old rigs that I use to bomb around the Black Hills camping and fishing but I need something larger and more comfortable for the family, plus it would be nice if I didn't always look like a drit bag. Thus I decided to purchase a commander. It should be here this week. If this particular vehicle passes the inspection I will be blowing my savings account on making it my poor man's defender 110 (obviously in apperance).

This is what I have in mind and I was hoping you guys would let me know where I'm going wrong. I realize that I'm probably going to cross over some boundries as far as posting in the suspension category. I'm worn out on searching thousands of threads just to scratch my head even more. Here we go.

The Plan:

2" Old Man Emu WK lift kit. HD springs and Struts. Was thinking about the additional 3/8 strut spacers? Not sure what make on those, was told to go with steel over the poly and I don't even know where to purchase them:).

I'm curious what this will render me in the way of lift height. I don't want to cause any major angle problems and I was really hoping to just run some 255s but I'm finding to get tires I like I will probably have to 265s.

I plan on or I should say I have money allocated for a heavy front bumper and rear bumper with a the tire swing out. The front bumper will be the reciever hitch style because I have a reciever hitch plate mounted winch that I will share with the old YJ. Plus this rig will see lots of miles from the woman going to work and hauling kids and the likes. Will this lift set up handle those monster bumpers? I don't think I can afford the 4" lift and do everything else I need for the long vacations. Also, I built an expedition trailer last summer with a tent and it weighs about 1200 lbs loaded with 4 days of supplies and gear. Me and my buddy weren't sure what kind of sag I would experience and we were pondering HD firestone air bags in the rear:).

As stated earlier this lift set up confuses me on which tires and wheels to go with. I don't want to mess around with any pinch weld mods if I can get away with it. The wheel thing is really confusing now that AEV has discontinued their pintlers for the XK. I'll be buying 5 wheels and 5 tires so I probably won't splurge on the JK pintlers. Really want to avoid spacers and was hoping to find another company that offers specs close to the AEV wheels. I like narrow tires in my part of the world for the gumbo mud out here in the high plains.

custom roof rack from the moon roofs to the back. Gonna try to mount legs for the rack into the stanchions and build a ladder from the rack to the back bumper on the passenger side. I'll put some tabs on the bumper and the rack and bolt that critter on. Its hard to put mule deer and coyotes on a rack that doesn't have a ladder.

I know there is alot going on here. Please feel free to give me any directions. I'll sort through it best I can and take notes. I'll be broke, but I'll have my poor man's defender 110.

Again, I apologize that I'm putting a bunch of crap in one thread and I'm asking the same questions that a 1,000 others have already asked. I really want this right the first time and I will be moving quickly on this build. Ranching is supposed to build patience but you'll find that buffalo move a lot faster than beef cows and I guess I never learned any patience.

I'm glad to be a part of what already seems to be the best XK forum and a closer knit group than any other jeep forum! Let me know if you have any ideas and I look forward to meeting you guys (I mean that in a vague sense, not to affend any female members).

Thanks a million in advance,

Joe

[jumpoffjoe]

Wow, thats a lot words.

[Ross]

Welcome to the forum, I definitely agree that the commander is like the American defender 110. I recently visited family in England and I was drooling at every defender that drove by. Over there, many are farm trucks that are dirt cheap, the parts are also very abundant and cheap. It's such a shame that the airbag laws prevent any post 1985 defenders from coming to the U.S., making the old ones quite collectable and expensive over here.

The OME will definitely be what your looking for as far as lift height and durability. With the rocky road 3/8" on-top-of strut spacer and F-150 Monroe load levelers in the rear (which will also help prevent sag while towing), you will be sitting at just around a 3" lift. This is the setup I'm currently running, it was quite a step-up from my daystar spacer lift which barely gave me 2" of lift. The OME HD will allow you to fit up to 285's with a bit of trimming, but most are running 265's and still do the pinch weld mod because of how easy it is and to prevent any possible rubbing at full lock. As far as the pinch weld mod, it is no big deal, just a small piece of metal that pokes out in the wheel well and can be bent back quite easily, there are very detailed write ups. Right now I have 265/70/17 Goodyear wrangler duratracs (load E). They are a really nice mix of all-terrain and mud-terrain with an aggressive look and after 12,000+ miles they are showing very minimal wear.

Here are some links to the major aftermarket sites for our Jeeps:
http://4xguard.com/ (owned by Jeepin-by-al)
http://thesteelarmadillo.com/
http://tacticalarmorgroup.com/TAGStore/TAGStore/tabid/71/List/1/CategoryID/191/Level/a/Default.aspx
http://www.rocky-road.com/commander.html

What engine and 4-wheel drive system do you have?

-Ross

[jumpoffjoe]

Lets not even talk about defenders or the toyota land cruiser GXL Troop, its almost depressing. It is an 07 with the 5.7. I'm assuming it has the Quadra DriveII. I was under the impression that if it had the HEMI it has the Quadra Drive standard similar to the WK outfitted with the diesel? I run duratracs on my YJ and I love them, awesome in that south dakota slush in the spring and fall. So the spacer in the front, and load levelers in the rear. No spacer in the rear? I want some wheel information if any one has any ideas. Psyco, we met on that other forum and you were the only guy that talked with me over there. I appreciate it man.

[Matt]

Hey joe, im typing on my phone right now so this is going to be shorter than id want....

For the lift you're on a good track. You can get the additional strut spacer from JBA.
Front = OME HD springs, OME struts + JBA spacer

For the rear id recommend getting the JBA 4" coil springs. No reason to get the OME springs and try to stack away. I'll be honest im not 100% sure how much lift you'll get from them, but id still get the monroe load leveling shocks, pn 58643, and go from there.

Whats your budget for wheels and what style are you interested in? We'll help you pick out a nice set.

For bumpers, thesteelarmadillo.com is where you want to be. Jon is building my rear bumper now (I hope lol)

I have links on here that shows how to do the pinch weld mod, installing the monroe shocks, etc. Id post them but im on my phone. The first post in my garage thread has all of the links though.

Welcome aboard man. Looking forward to helping you build an awesome Commander!!

[06JeepXKHEMI]

Welcome to TUJ! As Matt said you are headed to the right direction and Id also suggest going with the JBA rear springs 4" to avoid spacer stacking, Ill eventually be going this route.. You may also want to add an adjustable rear track bar, when lifting the axle will be roughly .5" off to drivers side, track bar is cheap $135? As far as wheels, let Matt and Adam help you with this I get confused to and it can be frustrating, but they seem to have a great grasp on this! Im running 265/70 Goodyear MTRs on stock chrome clads but running 1.5" spidertraxx spacers with pinch weld mod done, very easy to do, and Im very pleased with these tires. For MTs their road manners are great and off road, well they are beasts! What type of skid plates did your rig come with, if any? May want to consider those as well to protect the undercarrage..

[jumpoffjoe]

Thanks fellas!

So Matt, the 4" Jeep'n By Al spring and the F150 monroe struts will make this beast level? I only ask because I don't have any clue of the dimensions of the OME HD Spring or the correlating strut.

I have about $7,000 allocated for this project. I figure (roughly) $1,000 for the lift, $3,000 (2) for the bumpers, $2,000 for tires and wheels (5 tires, 5 wheels), $1,000 for the rack and ladder. Then I'm broke.

[Matt]

Depending on how much lift the JBA 4" springs actually provide you may end up with the rear higher than the front. The good news about the monroes is they're less than $100 for a pair. Another shock you might want to consider is the Rancho 9000XL. They're gentle on the budget and you can adjust their damping to stiffen up the ride while towing. If you find that you need a bit more lift in the rear I can make you a set of 1/2" spacers to get a little extra height.

Here's what im thinking your shopping list is like:
Front OME HD springs
Front OME struts
Front strut spacer from JBA
Front control arms from JBA
Rear 4" springs from JBA
Rear shocks- Rancho 9000XL
Rear track bar (if needed... my rear is only 1/4" off)

That entire lift setup, including track bar is about $1500. You can get it down to $1000 by not doing the control arms right away ($450), but id highly recommend putting those new arms on while everything's apart.

[pjmjr508]

Welcome to the group, everyone here will help you in any way you need to get what you want done. This is a great group. Just ask away someone here will offer to help

[stites-xk]

Welcome to the group!

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[lekmedm]

Depending on how much lift the JBA 4" springs actually provide you may end up with the rear higher than the front. The good news about the monroes is they're less than $100 for a pair. Another shock you might want to consider is the Rancho 9000XL. They're gentle on the budget and you can adjust their damping to stiffen up the ride while towing. If you find that you need a bit more lift in the rear I can make you a set of 1/2" spacers to get a little extra height.

Here's what im thinking your shopping list is like:
Front OME HD springs
Front OME struts
Front strut spacer from JBA
Front control arms from JBA
Rear 4" springs from JBA
Rear shocks- Rancho 9000XL
Rear track bar (if needed... my rear is only 1/4" off)

That entire lift setup, including track bar is about $1500. You can get it down to $1000 by not doing the control arms right away ($450), but id highly recommend putting those new arms on while everything's apart.

So I'm curious... For the price, what's the advantage of the set you put together over the SuperLift that's $1550 on the Steel Armadillo site?

[Matt]

So I'm curious... For the price, what's the advantage of the set you put together over the SuperLift that's $1550 on the Steel Armadillo site?

Technically, not much.... except some things that add to the price of the superlift that aren't included:
1) Installation. Not many guys can install the superlift in their garage with basic tools.
2) Superlift utilizes stock front springs/struts. Add $260 to the price of the superlift for at least an equivalent strut upgrade.
3) Depending on use, I'd also upgrade the standard rear superlift shocks... another $200 addition
4) The JBA UCA's were a significant part of that $1500... Id still like upgraded UCA's with the superlift.
5) Add in the EGR to the superlift to keep the traction control system happy adds another $300?

So basically, its complicated. After what most would pay for installation fee's and to get decent shocks/struts in the process, the superlift is closer to $2500.

I'd still prefer the superlift. But when someones budget is $1000 and only looking for a 32" tire size.... stretching that to $1500 for a few nice upgrades seems a bit more feasible lol.

[jumpoffjoe]

I'll have access to a shop, hoist, my mechanic buddy, and his tools! However, this rig will be the long vacation vehicle. I need it lifted with tires for the ranch roads and bad weather out here. I also don't want to worry about the less traveled FS roads when I head out fishing. This thing doesn't need to be dry hoping on rocks. Don't get me wrong. I'm sure I'll find myself in places that will test it and my capabilities, it just won't be a monthly practice. As Matt stated, money is an issue if I do chase the bumpers. Really, I need the front bumper for the deer, the back bumper will allow me to put the ladder to the rack. In my experience, if you can't stand on the rack you can't really use it.

Am I wrong in thinking that steel armadillo doesn't offer a rear bumper? The front offers a a better approach angle but I gotta say it shows all the guts from the side view and I like the look of the full wrap around. The more obtuse and old school the better for me, thats why I like the commander in the first place. Matt, I like the list! Now on to wheels! Thanks for help guys!

Joe

[Matt]

Jon can clarify the current bumper situation.... but basically he switched welders recently so he needs to work out the bumper design/manufacturing with the new guy. Im probably going to be his guinea pig.

He's also revamping the front bumper so you may want to hold off to see how that comes out.

For wheels, what styles do you like? Black, chrome, polished?

[Ross]

Check out the tactical armor bumpers:
http://tacticalarmorgroup.com/TAGStore/TAGStore/tabid/71/CategoryID/191/List/1/Level/a/ProductID/1735/Default.aspx

[jumpoffjoe]

Well the commander arrived and it needs some minor work to make it very close to perfect. I will be driving it this weekend for my final evaluation process. Pretty excited guys, not gonna lie!

Anyway, wheels it is Matt. I'm thinking black bumpers so I might as well go black wheels. I like basic stuff. I don't have a preference beween spokes or circular holes. I just don't want a lot of bling or accents. I would prefer nothing but black (matte finish), no chrome at all. But I'm open to anything. I probably don't need beed locks and I don't need the most impressive rock crawling wheel, just a solid off road wheel. I'm thinking I'd still like the TPS system so something that accomodates that would be cool. I read the thread about the flow master exhaust, LOL. FYI I'm 32, that may help generate some ideas. I don't want this truck to look like a motorcross kid's rig:)! Plain Jane is the the name of game. Utility is everything to me.

[Matt]

Sounds good man. Ill find a few wheels while im kicking back after work tonight.

[jumpoffjoe]

Psycho, I have had those bumpers in mind this entire time. I talked with a guy from CSL Offroad about getting them and a few other things. I like the idea of supporting Jon however. I also like the idea of not spending all that money on the bumpers, but if you guys lived here you'd know its only a matter of time before a big old mule deer or antelope wanders out in front of your rig at highway speeds. Hell my gal takes them out in our home town, a lot of this country is open range so the gravel roads are littered with beef cows.

[06JeepXKHEMI]

Those bumpers arent bad but I cant say they are nicer then SA. If I needed a steel bumper like the sounds of you do, Id wait for Jon, since he basically has to re-create new front and rears the ability to customize them is there. Also since there are more members on than the last bumper he designed Im sure the amount of feedback and suggestions will really help put together very nice pieces!

[Matt]

Ok man here's a few quick wheel options to get started. You can click the pictures to go to the website to see them.

8.5" wide with +10 to +18mm offset is ideal. A few of these have +25mm offset which is what the XK Pintlers were (but I think they tuck the tire a bit too much, but hell its still an option)

MB TKO - 17x8.5 +18mm offset - $120 each
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2013/03/t_20120130mbmtkomtbang-1.jpg (http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findWheelDetail.do?bp=5-127&pc=47287&counter=2&wd=17&rw=8.5)

Vtec Warlord - 17x8.5 +25mm offset - $125 each
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2013/03/vtecwarlord394closed-1.jpg (http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findWheelDetail.do?bp=5-127&pc=57418&counter=2&wd=17&rw=8.5)

American Outlaw TNT - 17x8.5 +16mm offset - $129 each
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2013/03/amotntbang-1.jpg (http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findWheelDetail.do?bp=5-127&pc=23040&counter=2&wd=17&rw=8.5)

American Outlaw Hollywood - 17x8.5 +15mm offset - $135 each
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2013/03/Hollywood_20_Black-1.png (http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findWheelDetail.do?bp=5-127&pc=13044&counter=2&wd=17&rw=8.5)


... I feel like I should make a "wheels that work" thread...

[Core XK]

American Outlaws have my vote lol

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

[lekmedm]

Ok man here's a few quick wheel options to get started. You can click the pictures to go to the website to see them.

8.5" wide with +10 to +18mm offset is ideal. A few of these have +25mm offset which is what the XK Pintlers were (but I think they tuck the tire a bit too much, but hell its still an option)

MB TKO - 17x8.5 +18mm offset - $120 each
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2013/03/t_20120130mbmtkomtbang-1.jpg (http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findWheelDetail.do?bp=5-127&pc=47287&counter=2&wd=17&rw=8.5)



With what Joe described earlier, these get my vote! (I like them personally, too.)

[Matt]

^^ My buddy put those on his XJ too

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/imported/2013/03/DSC_0359_zps90d71875-1.jpg

[jumpoffjoe]

Those look about right guys! Check this out, so I'm behind the shop looking through some old tires and wheels yesterday and I found four 17" rubicon wheels with 255 75 BFG Mud terrains on them. Tread on the tires is 80%. I'm thinking I could powder coat those wheels, throw some spacers on and save myself some cash! Turns out the wheels and tires are off my boss man's old jeep and he says they're mine! He thinks he has the 5th tire somewhere in a trailer. The factory spare is an aluminium wheel painted black. I could put that 5th tire on the factory spare and I think that would be good enough for me. Whatcha ya think?

[Matt]

can't beat the price!

Get a good set of 1.25 or 1.5" spacers and you should be good. Definitely will need to do the pinch weld mod, but that's easy.

[jumpoffjoe]

1880

[jumpoffjoe]

Matt, which spacer would you go with? I assume that the every little bit counts in that wheel well. As far as spacer brands go, I don't have a lot of knowledge. I see a lot of spider tracks stickers on JKs. The 255/75s are going to be wider that 265/70s?

[Matt]

Spidertrax are the most common spacer run so I'd go with those.

The biggest thing about the spacer is getting the tire sidewall away from the balljoint bolt. But the larger the spacer, the more likely you'll have rubbing issues in the pinch weld area while turning.

1.5" spacers are common because they don't require cutting the wheel studs. But with with JK wheels i believe there's indents on the back side of the wheel that clear the stock wheel studs when used with 1.25" spacers (might want to double check that). So the 1.25" spacers will clear the bolt and minimize rubbing at the pinch weld, especially the passenger side if you have the rear HVAC lines.

255 vs 265 is the tire width in mm. 255 is 10mm thinner than 265, which is ~.5".

[jumpoffjoe]

Thats what I thought on the tires, which sounds good to me. I'll do some checking on the 1.25 spacers. It looked like we needed atleast an inch to clear the calipers. I plan on ordering the lift components next week. I'm almost thinking I'll order the bumpers too. We can lift it and put on bumpers in one evening at the shop.

[jumpoffjoe]

What do I need for the computer to correct the speedo? Is there a flash paq that can perform some other functions aswell that may aid me in the future. With money saved I'll probably put on the flow master exhaust and get this thing sounding tougher.

[Matt]

Superchips Flashpaq 3875 is what you'll need. If you dont want to transfer your TPMS sensors over you can use the flashpaq to put the TPMS system in "offroad" mode which effectively turns it off. I've been running that setup since the new OEM rubber stemmed sensors dont want to work right, and I don't want aluminum ones for offroading (seen too many break).

[Ross]

There is an unlocked 3875 superchips programmer for sale on jeepcommander.com for 250$:
http://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19682

[jjt250]

Matt, which spacer would you go with? I assume that the every little bit counts in that wheel well. As far as spacer brands go, I don't have a lot of knowledge. I see a lot of spider tracks stickers on JKs. The 255/75s are going to be wider that 265/70s?


Spidertrax are the most common spacer run so I'd go with those.

The biggest thing about the spacer is getting the tire sidewall away from the balljoint bolt. But the larger the spacer, the more likely you'll have rubbing issues in the pinch weld area while turning.

1.5" spacers are common because they don't require cutting the wheel studs. But with with JK wheels i believe there's indents on the back side of the wheel that clear the stock wheel studs when used with 1.25" spacers (might want to double check that). So the 1.25" spacers will clear the bolt and minimize rubbing at the pinch weld, especially the passenger side if you have the rear HVAC lines.

255 vs 265 is the tire width in mm. 255 is 10mm thinner than 265, which is ~.5".

I think the smallest you can go is a 1 inch spacer on Moabs because they have those pockets. And like Matt said, 255's are a little thinner, but I think they're about .5" taller.


Thats what I thought on the tires, which sounds good to me. I'll do some checking on the 1.25 spacers. It looked like we needed atleast an inch to clear the calipers. I plan on ordering the lift components next week. I'm almost thinking I'll order the bumpers too. We can lift it and put on bumpers in one evening at the shop.

You only need 1/4" spacers to clear the caliper with Moabs, on a WK at least. It's possible that XKs have bigger calipers to compensate for the extra weight. I would personally go with a bolt on style spacer over a slip on one but that's just me. Check out Spidertraxx, Rough Country, and Bora. They all have good spacers, but it seems like Spidertraxx is the most popular. What bumpers do you think you'll order?

[jumpoffjoe]

Thanks John,

I won't do anything else than bolt on spacers, seems the most robust route. I was thinking I'd do the tactical armor group bumpers? I don't have any patience, not willing to wait around for the SA bumpers unless the lead time is fairly short. I'm not sure what year those rubicon wheels are, I don't know if that changes the wheel specs. I was thinking 1" spacers, but if you think I can get away with less I'd rather not have tires sticking way considering all the gravel roads we drive. I appreciate all the help.

I was also wondering what an "unlocked chip" is? Is $250 a good deal on that one for sale on jeepcommander.com?

Joe

[Matt]

When you use a programmer to tune your vehicle that specific programmer becomes "locked" to your VIN and can't be used on another vehicle until the stock tune is replaced "unlocked".

$250 is an alright deal. New they're $300-$350 depending on where you get it.

[jjt250]

Thanks John,

I won't do anything else than bolt on spacers, seems the most robust route. I was thinking I'd do the tactical armor group bumpers? I don't have any patience, not willing to wait around for the SA bumpers unless the lead time is fairly short. I'm not sure what year those rubicon wheels are, I don't know if that changes the wheel specs. I was thinking 1" spacers, but if you think I can get away with less I'd rather not have tires sticking way considering all the gravel roads we drive. I appreciate all the help.

I was also wondering what an "unlocked chip" is? Is $250 a good deal on that one for sale on jeepcommander.com?

Joe

I checked out those TAG bumpers and they look pretty cool. The WK front bumpers they make are ugly in my opinion but the XK ones look pretty awesome. I personally prefer the SA rear bumper but the TAG one still looks very cool.

As long as the Rubicon wheels are 2007+ (JK Wrangler) they should fit with 1" spacers. Check for those pockets on the inside of the wheel. Worst case, you have to trim the stock lugs. If you're going with 1" spacers, I'd go with Bora. They're a little bit pricey, but I think they're worth it. Spidertraxx and RC don't make 1" spacers as far as I know.

[jumpoffjoe]

Matt, I'm going to order the lift components tomorrow. I know we discussed the Rancho struts for the rear. I noticed that you questioned if I would need additional lift in the rear. I'm curious if you think the monroe load leveler struts would give the extra boost over the Rancho struts? And are the JBA front strut spacers the 1/4 " ones?

[Matt]

The monroes have an additional coil spring which gives more lift. Probably not needed with the 4" JBA springs though.

You can run the stock shocks with the lift and see where you're sitting. Then order rear shocks. The rears only take 10 minutes to swap out.

[jumpoffjoe]

So I failed to get everything ordered today. Had a date with the accountant, always a bad deal. However, the paper work for the truck was signed and I am now the official owner of the Commander. I wanted to confirm that it is the JBA 1/4" spacer I'm after as I noticed that to be the only strut spacer available. Also, I assume as the F150 monroe strut was suggested that I am to order the Rancho 9000XL strut that would also fit the F150? I'm gonna order myself a brand new superchip. Figure I might as well have new one and not worry about it. Send those Rubicon wheels to get powder coated and pray for a spare weekend!

[stites-xk]

I would use the JBA 1/4 spacer!

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[jjt250]

Rusty's and Rocky Road also make strut spacers. I went with Rusty's because it was the cheapest after shipping but they're all comparable.

[Matt]

Hey joe, I did mention the JBA spacer but there are other manufacturers too... any of them will work.

The Rancho shocks you want are part number RS999286.

[thance]

I went with the rocky-road 3/8 inch steel spacer up front. They are the only one that is a full 3/8 thick and it does make a difference. You might want the extra with the 4" springs your putting in the back.

http://www.rocky-road.com/commandertrim.html

[Ross]

^^^
I went with the RRO spacers for the same reason. Although they are 3/8", you obtain 9/16" of total lift with these on.

[jumpoffjoe]

Fellas,

I got the lift on this weekend. Wheels were picked up this morning. Hope to have the wheel spacers by Thursday and I can get the rubber on and truck sent alignment (its parked for now). I posted some picks in an album on my profile. I'll keep adding picks as I go. Seriously appreciate all the help guys.

[jumpoffjoe]

So I had some time to mount and balance the tires before it went to alignment. I know I posted a picture in my "formal introduction" thread. Matt, you thought the stance looked perfect. I think the picture was perhaps a bit misleading. I still think there is a bit of rake towards the front. I don't mind this however. I opted to put on the RR spacer above the front strut. I remember reading some things about how far to crank down the nut on the front strut above the spring. I bottomed it out because I noticed the stock strut was bottomed out. I was wondering if you guys feel that was a mistake? I can't imagine I would gain much lift by only bringing the nut down part ways, like only exposing 4-6 threads on the top of the strut?

Also, when I put the RR spacer on I felt that I really was just barely getting enought threads to bolt it down to the unibody under the hood. In the future if I decided to put an additional spacer on I know I won't have the threads. Is there another strut perch or mounting bracket out there with longer bolts for addtional threads? I still have the JBA spacers that I could stack. Let me know what you think.

Joe

1942

[06JeepXKHEMI]

Looks good, but if I were you, Id get longer strut bolts and add another spacer up front, once that steel bumper goes on it will bring both front and rear down. What are your measurements hub to fender, ground to fender for front and rear?

[Matt]

Yeah you have a bit of rake, but the rear will probably settle some. Also, pictures online are a bit misleading. My XK has about the same amount of rake, but when i see my XK being driven (like when my wife takes it) it looks perfectly level.

You did the right thing by bottoming out the strut bolt. If you didn't, you'd get a horrible clunking sound.

You can probably squeeze out an extra 3/8" or so out of the front depending on where your strut forks are sitting. There's about 1/4" play that essentially acts like another 1/4" spacer depending on how you position the fork clamp. See here:
http://www.theultimatejeep.com/showthread.php?1311-OME-HD-Install&p=18958&viewfull=1#post18958

[Matt]

Don't forget the front springs have a much higher spring rate than the rear. So if you're adding F & R bumpers, and a fullsize spare to the rear bumper, the rear height will likely drop more than the front.

[jumpoffjoe]

Excellent! Thanks for the advice. I'll probably just leave things as they are until the bumpers come and I get them on. I will have the rear bumper with tire swing-out and fuel/hi-lift and a roof rack focused towards the rear. Thats more weight than in the front.

In the future, I can just order longer strut bolts and slide them in the existing mounts? I guess I didn't look to see if they were spot welded on that perch (or mount). You know with the stock bolts and the RR spacers, I really didnt' grab many threads on the rear holes of either strut. You know the two bolts positioned to the rear of the strut. There are mounting plates on either side for the unibody support bar. Made me nervous but it seems the pressure is always forcing things up.

[Matt]

The studs are spot wedled, but they can be cut off and new longer ones can be tacked in place.

[jjt250]

I heard from people on JF that the stock bolts can be knocked out fairly easily and then you can weld in the new, longer bolts.