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Sal-XK
02-13-2015, 02:45 PM
I'm trying to gather everything up all at once so I can spend maybe just a weekend knocking it all out at once. So let me know if I'm missing anything or suggestions on stuff I should just replace or service 5.7L 75K. I want to get all this done as soon as it warms up a bit. Then I can settle on a lift and be done with it.

The things I have already done are, serviced both axles, TC, Transmission and oil. Brakes still have plenty of meat on them.

1. Plugs 16 OEM Is it worth upgrading or changing the coils and ignitions out? I don't have any current issues.
2. Water pump and coolant flush.
3. Thermostat
4. PCV
5. Air filter
6. What is the billet catch can? I remember reading something about upgrading it.
7. Hubs both sides front. (timken)
8. Rotate tires
9. New belt
10. tensioner and pulley.

lekmedm
02-13-2015, 04:26 PM
Check the serpiente belt, brake fluid, and power steering fluid.

Sent from wherever my Jeep takes me.

Sal-XK
02-13-2015, 05:38 PM
Check the serpiente belt, brake fluid, and power steering fluid.

Sent from wherever my Jeep takes me.

Good idea I think I'll just throw a new belt on their.

Matt
02-13-2015, 05:57 PM
If you're gonna throw a belt on... might as well do the tensioner and idler pulley too. Normally one of those go bad first and take out the belt with it.... so just putting a new belt on will mean you'll be buying another one in the near future.

I personally wouldn't change wheel bearings as preventative maintenance. Is one making noise?

Dont worry about changing out coils... just do the plugs

Sal-XK
02-13-2015, 06:17 PM
If you're gonna throw a belt on... might as well do the tensioner and idler pulley too. Normally one of those go bad first and take out the belt with it.... so just putting a new belt on will mean you'll be buying another one in the near future.

I personally wouldn't change wheel bearings as preventative maintenance. Is one making noise?

Dont worry about changing out coils... just do the plugs

I'll add those to the list. I do have a hum that is only noticeable while on the throttle. Not sure what it is at this point. Had the rear axle rebuilt and most of the noise went away but I still here something. I'm really convince its in front which all the front axle seals where also replaced. I can't really say if its worse on turns or not but their is no clicking that I hear. Can a water pump cause this noise?

Matt
02-13-2015, 06:22 PM
Does it make the noise if you rev the engine in park or neutral and not moving?

Sal-XK
02-13-2015, 06:25 PM
Does it make the noise if you rev the engine in park or neutral and not moving?

Just while moving and mostly noticeable when at least over 40MPH. If I let off the throttle it goes away. I'm the only one that can here by the way LOL My wife think I'm crazy and being OCD over it.

06JeepXKHEMI
02-13-2015, 10:12 PM
Sal the catch can I highly recommend, it goes between the pcv and intake, it traps all the oil vapor that gets put back into the intake to get burned. Highly suggest that!!!

Sal-XK
02-13-2015, 11:07 PM
Sal the catch can I highly recommend, it goes between the pcv and intake, it traps all the oil vapor that gets put back into the intake to get burned. Highly suggest that!!!

Ok cool! I'll look that up.

pyraxiate
02-20-2015, 08:01 AM
I just ordered a kit that included 16 plugs, belt, air filter, oil filter, and pcv valve for under 100. All oem Mopar.

Haven't put it all on yet ....waiting on weather. Lol

Here's a link if you are interested. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=390180693143&alt=web


My '06 5.7 has 80k and I'm not sure what's been done, or if the 60k tuneup had been performed. She seems to be running nicely but I'm getting pretty terrible gas mileage ...10.6 avg. Getting a 28' 5500 lb camper soon and want everything running it's best.

Holiday Jones
03-06-2015, 10:28 AM
Just while moving and mostly noticeable when at least over 40MPH. If I let off the throttle it goes away. I'm the only one that can here by the way LOL My wife think I'm crazy and being OCD over it.
Mine does the same thing. Right at 40mph there's a hum, but it is directly in proportion to throttle, like it's the motor. I am assuming from posts of those who have added aftermarket exhaust to the MDS hemi that say the motor is actually louder on 4 cylinders than 8 that it's the MDS system coming on. ?? Maybe someone who knows more about that can shed some light on it. But as far as I've read, 40mph is around where the MDS is supposed to engage :confused:

Dan.2005WK
03-09-2015, 07:55 PM
Mine does the same thing. Right at 40mph there's a hum, but it is directly in proportion to throttle, like it's the motor. I am assuming from posts of those who have added aftermarket exhaust to the MDS hemi that say the motor is actually louder on 4 cylinders than 8 that it's the MDS system coming on. ?? Maybe someone who knows more about that can shed some light on it. But as far as I've read, 40mph is around where the MDS is supposed to engage :confused:
That's what I've heard, too. A Diablosport Intune I1000 will run you about $290, and it can download custom tunes from the web and install them on your ECU. Another handy feature is that it can turn off MDS (which a lot of people find to be kind of an annoyance). You might be able to find a shop that will do it for you without buying the device itself. Might be worth turning off your MDS, as a part of your troubleshooting efforts, but be aware that you'll probably see a drop in your MPG.
If you have custom exhaust and still use MDS, that might cause a drone. I've heard about guys who have deleted their resonator and get an obnoxious drone at highway speeds.
(I, myself, plan on cutting out the stock muffler and putting in a Flowmaster Super 44; haven't decided on deleting the reso yet, but that's for another thread.)
Hope I could help, and best of luck!

2005 JGC 5.7L
stock... for now 😉

06JeepXKHEMI
03-11-2015, 04:33 AM
You can turn the mds off without a tuner. Just by slapping the stick over to left once will keep you out of overdrive and mds and the highest gear you'll be in is 5th. I actually would drive around town with tow/haul mode on to with my Intune my XK would chirp 2nd with MTRs.

Dan.2005WK
03-11-2015, 10:14 AM
The problem with that method is that you lose overdrive when you're on the highway, so your engine revs a lot higher.

2005 JGC 5.7L
K&N 57 series CAI
everything else is stock... for now 😉

Roguecommander
03-11-2015, 10:46 AM
Is it hard to change the pcv valve? Lol I have done all the belts and spark plugs already but to be honest I have never even heard of a PCV valve. 😅

Dan.2005WK
03-11-2015, 12:22 PM
Is it hard to change the pcv valve? Lol I have done all the belts and spark plugs already but to be honest I have never even heard of a PCV valve. 😅
Never done it. I think it's just a little plastic thing that screws in place. Honestly, I think changing the PCV valve is more corrective maintenance than it is preventative. But I'm no expert. I gladly defer to anyone who knows more about it than I do.
Look for a rubber hose coming from your intake tubing or stock air box. It should be your PCV line. Trace it back to the engine and you should find your PCV valve.

2005 JGC 5.7L
K&N 57 series CAI
everything else is stock... for now 😉

Roguecommander
03-11-2015, 01:04 PM
Thx man. I just went to the jeep dealer and they happened to have one in stock so I got it, and ya it was super easy to put in. But I did notice my gas mileage went up my 1.5-2 mpg so I'm happy. (Even though it was a 65$ piece of plastic)

Sal-XK
03-11-2015, 03:07 PM
Positive Crankcase Ventilation. The real worry is it gets stuck in the closed position not allowing your crank case to vent. It hooks up to the air intake which causes a vacuum to place on the system. This helps vent blow by in the crankcase and is then burned instead of vented. Installing a catch can will trap the oil that is coming out but allow the vapor to continue and be burned. Having one stuck closed I guess could rob you of a little HP in turn robbing you of a little MPG. But that part I'm not sure about.