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View Full Version : Replaced EGR Valve now she won't idle and dies



hinchcliffe
07-04-2011, 03:53 AM
Check Engine light is on, how do I get the codes with out a reader? I put in a new EGR and then the idle went too low and the engine shuts off. I unplugged the battery after replacing the EGR and drove around for ~30 minutes to try and let it reset itself in "Normal" driving conditions to the new EGR. Still won't idle correctly (goes below 500 and shuts down).

I put the old EGR back in and no difference. I don't think I knocked anything else bad?

cico7
07-04-2011, 04:33 AM
Check Engine light is on, how do I get the codes with out a reader?


" You have to turn the key to ignition ON and then LOCKED, NOT to accessory, and you have to do three times and end on Ignition ON. Do it four times, or more, it won't work, mess it up, turn it off and take the key out and wait a few seconds before trying again. You need to do the Key LOCKED-ON-LOCKED-ON-LOCKED-ON within 3 seconds (that figure for total time varies, it was longer for my older Chryslers). "

Try this.....

hinchcliffe
07-04-2011, 04:53 AM
Just Got Code P-0508

cico7
07-04-2011, 05:04 AM
Just Got Code P-0508

XK jeeps. Com will give you codes. Or type it into google.

hinchcliffe
07-04-2011, 05:31 AM
Yeah IAC Code. Think the old EGR was covering it up or maybe I bumped it? I did unplug it but I plugged it back in and made sure it was locked together? I'm picking up a new one later today just not sure why it happened at the same time?

hinchcliffe
07-04-2011, 11:35 AM
OK, dropped in the new IAC, cleared the codes and good to go. Not sure the dilly, but I'll re-install the New EGR soon and see what happens.

hinchcliffe
07-04-2011, 11:52 AM
To replace the EGR, look at the new one and see where the bolts are. You'll need a 4" extension on a 13mm socket. Remove the bolts first and swing the EGR up and around pulling the exhaust breather (bent steel tube with a heat jacket on) out of the side of the manifold (be careful not to pull to hard, but pull it striaght to the driverside fender). The hose for the PCV has an end that looks like a spark plug wire disconnect it and feed it between the exhaust breather and EGR body. Once you get it close enough pull the plug on the EGR (slide the red plastic lock and push on the plug top to unlock it). Once out use an 8mm socket and remove the Exhaust breather. Make sure you have the paper/metal gasket off the manifold and the paper gasket from the breather tube.

Installation is easier once you get your fat hands back in there. Put the breather on with the new gasket and only tighten it so you can still rotate it a bit as needed for reassembly. Use new bolts (if provided) and install them into the new EGR with new gasket (holes in the gasket should just hold the bolts in place so you don't lose them). Squeeze it in and push in the breather. Pull the bottom of the EGR towards you when installing the bolts to make sure they acually thread in correctly. Tighten them down (not sure the torque spec) then tighten the breather screws. Lastly plug it in and you're good to go.

Notes: You do not need to remove the air box on top of the motor unless you want a better view, not going to get you much though. Yes it is very frustrating the first time but take your time (do not cross thread holes cause you'll never reach them easily). Since I did it twice now it only takes about 20 minutes, but figure a good hour the first time. Best safe to do it on a cold engine, but I only burnt my finger tips twice.

BTW the PCV on the 2006 4.7 is on the driverside rear just past the spark plugs.


I'll try to post up pics and run a different thread with this write up.