I just came across this.. This may change a few things if these are legit! http://4xguard.com/commander-2006-20...al-gears.html#
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I just came across this.. This may change a few things if these are legit! http://4xguard.com/commander-2006-20...al-gears.html#
Yeah we had a poll not that long ago asking what ratio you would prefer. I'd take either 4.10's or 4.56's. 4.10's would go nice with the rubicon stickers I'm about to get for my hood lol
Why can't you install a divorced tcase (whatever tcase you want) and put the ring gear from the hub where the wheel speed senors read from, put those ring gears on the short driveshaft between the trans and tcase, and move ALL wheel speed sensors to a bracket that will read off of the ring gear on the short driveshaft?
That way, you can have any tcase you want and any gears you want and the computer will still be reading from an original ring gear for the wheel speed sensor so no codes will be thrown.
Making sense?
Apparently, Arrington Motorsports has the ability to shut off wheel speed sensors from the ECU, Ive been reading TJ HEMI swaps as they use different Tcases to make their applications work so that technology is out there.. Now whether the 4WD system will still work properly is another thing..
Lots of jk hemi guys appear to use an ESP kill switch....but it also kills abs and cruise control.
It actually expects to see different wheel speeds. It's why the EGR is needed with the SL (the knuckles change the steering angle) and why putting a WK rack in an XK causes the ESP to activate when turning.
You can't disable that feature without killing ABS and CC (as Justin mentioned). Long pressing the button still keeps the BTC active.
Just an FYI I called and talked at length with these guys and the gears are not going to happen in the near future. It appears that the cost to get a small run of these gears made would put the price in the $1500-2000 range. A bit outside of what mere mortals would be willing to pay.
I'm just trying to locate the harness that plugs into the differential. If I can't get my hands on one ill just make my own.
P/N 56050223AD this is the "jumper" harness that plugs into the top of the front differential. Mopar refers to it as a wiring cradle. My connector broke on mine that's why I had to order a new one.
Well i'll be damned... I was looking for that part in the manual forever yesterday!
FYI, the 2007 parts manual lists it as P/N 56048637AA
I'll be able to figure it out better when I have the knuckle in front of me. I expect that the length of the arm on the knuckle changes a bit... maybe the superlift knuckle has a 1/4" shorter tie rod arm to help clear wheels, which then increases how much the tires turn for a given wheel angle.
I called the dealer and ordered the part number Matt listed for the 2007. I'm hoping this is the correct part. The dealer said its listed as the cradle harness and has 3 connectors coming off of it. As long as one of the connectors clips into the front differential, ill be able to use it. Gulf550, does this sound like the correct part?
Mine only had one connector on each side. The harness length was maybe 8" long. Something doesn't seem right about it, but they might have done something different with 2007 model years. I will try climbing underneath mine today and snapping a picture of it.
I called the dealer back and the parts guy said he will look into it. Worse case scenario he said he wil order both and when they arrive ill let him know which one I need
In the 2007 parts manual it's listed twice, once on the 4.7L engine wiring page and again on the 5.7L engine wiring page. Although they list the same part number on both sheets, it shows 3 connectors on the image for the 5.7L page and only 2 connectors on the 4.7L page.
In the 2006 parts manual its the same scenario with the P/N Gulf posted... except that the 5.7L engine had two other harness options.
I'm thinking in 2007 they made it a standard harness and some guys just have an extra connector hanging around. The new part number might include a cap.
Ok. So either way ill be set cause he said he was just going to order both just in case. I'll be hacking up the harness anyway. I just need the plug with a few inches of wire.
So who is going to do it first?
I have a HP dana 30 from a JK sitting in my garage. The Dana 30 would be no problem with 33-36 inch tires. Plus the WJ dana 30 is our bolt pattern but comes with the less desireable CV axle shafts. my LP 30 on my TJ holds up fine with 35s and beadlocks. Just depends on your driving style. I see no reason a JK Rock Krawler jk long arm kit would not set up the suspension correctly since it comes with a weld in cross member for the front links. My big concern would be steering, unless some type of hydro assist could be used to take the stress off of the rack.
The more I think about it, if I get a Hemi XK in the future I don't think I'm going to get it with QD II. It makes a solid axle conversion more difficult due to the computer programming and quite possibly not as capable as the front and rear setup I'm currently running in my Jeep.
Conversion kits to turn the CV style axle to a ujoint style are available. Also certain XJ axle shafts are a direct swap. Not sure such though.
EDIT:
Anyone have any thoughts of on tying in the rack?
I wonder if one could scavenge the d30 and d44 off of a WJ? The D44a in the back would need some reinforcement because it is made with aluminum but should work. And maybe a good selection because they are cheap and have the ABS setup with disc brakes.
Now that I'm locked front and rear this jeep won't be getting a solid axle or superlift. Dont need em
I would love to see that front locker in action and see how it works. That sounds so cool. Maybe QDII guys will be able to do that some day. I'd love to be able to manually lock my diffs.
Has anyone thought about a long travel suspension? Like with longer A arms, etc, similar to a Ford Raptor? Those are like 3.5 inches wider on each side but even 2 inches could yield some pretty good gains and wouldn't it solve a lot of computer related problems vs a SAS? I mean you still wouldn't get the articulation gains of a SAS but it would probably be easier, more cost effective, and still very comfortable to drive especially if you combined it with some Icon or King coilovers. Of course your tires would stick out further so you'd need fender flares most likely but I can see that being much easier to accomplish on XKs. I don't know, I just always thought long travel suspension would be really awesome to see done on our platforms.
The opposite. QDII vehicles disable the traction control completely in Low range, all you have to do is fool the computer that the solenoid is still there (resistor). With a QTii vehicle it will still try to brake the wheels if it determines a slip (that can be side to side or front to rear) where the QDII vehicle wont. Ie if the rear spins and the front doesnt, it will actually brake the rear wheels and vice versa. I know the Tcase should be fully locked anywy, but with enough load they will slip.
This is what I was thinking the other day, in the situations where you dont need to flip the switch for QDII clutches, wont the computer still want to brake whatever wheel is slipping? Could this damage the QDII diff?
Dave are you sure QDII disables traction control differently that QTII?
If you're in 4 low with QDII and have your front diff open, Itll probably set a DTC for front diff clutch performance. ... but thats not really a big deal.
Which gives me another thought for the QTII guys. Adam do you have a place with loose dirt or gravel that you can drive circles on with your front locker engaged? ? Wondering how your traction control system will react when it doesnt see different wheel speeds while turning (ref steering rack issue)
Andrew, that won't damage the QDII diff
Nope cause I have a switch wired up to completely disable the traction control through the abs pump fuse. So the traction control won't kick I at all. Just full power to both rear wheels and one front. Flip the locker switch and then get full power to all four wheels
Just tested it out. 4high with front end locked making figure 8's on gravel parking lot. The traction control was fine and never kicked in. I can definitely tell when the front end is locked. You can feel it in the steering wheel