Oh, wouldn't you like to know ? LOL ! I have to run but I will be back later to ntell you how I did it.
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I removed the front cap from the side rails and drilled a hole into the roof, I them installed a rubber grommet to protect the wires and ran the wires through that hole including a CB antenna wire, I then used silicon sealer to keep the water out and reinstalled the end cap.
I nice thing about doing it this way was that now that I have temporarily removed my lights and antenna I can lay the wire down the side rail and no one can see them and they are not in the way.
I ran all wiring in behind dash, behind drivers side kick panel, under carpet toward the back of the Jeep, behind the rear interior trim where the rear ac controls are. The wiring exits thru a factory hole located below the tailights then goes up behind the tailight, behind the rear grab handle or black plastic trim ( whichever you have ) , then underneath the plastic finishing trim piece at the rear of the roof rack rail. I then have plugs so that I can remove my basket and lights. When the basket is removed I lay the plugs down inside the roof rack rail. All connections are soldered and shrink wrapped. The in-line fuses and relays are behind drivers kick panel. The grounds are attached under the dash and the hot wires are routed thru the factory grommet beside the steering column and attached directly to the battery. Sorry, I don't have the pics handy, my Photobucket page went tits-up.
While everyone else was doing theres the clean and nice way I just have mine run under the weather stripping in the back door behind driver then behind the weather stripping into where the seat best comes out. From there I took it down along the bottom of the door and under the plastic that runs along the door with the step piece (cant think of way to describe it) then just up through the firewall and to the battery.
defender rack guys
What's the height of the rack above the roof? From top of rack to top of roof. Trying to get a garage measurement.
From the roof, right next to the side rail my rack is 8 3/4" tall. with the lights about 17". also I ran my roof lights wiring behind the weather stripping back into the vehicle. My front lights I ran though a rubber grommet on the drivers side floor. I couldn't find anywhere in the fire wall. I post up pics later.
I made a ''relay farm'' in the trim area in the back end, on the driver's side. The relay wiring to the front is just a small data cable with a dozen #20 AWG wires for the relay controls, and a #6 AWG to feed the relay's. All my dash switches are connected to the small control wiring, and carry almost no current. There's also a few #16's to feed the RV light wiring setup. (For being towed behind the motorcoach)
I used an 80 amp circuit breaker on the #6 up front, and that big wire feeds a fuse block that powers the relays. Everything in the back is mounted on a piece of plywood, and it can be pulled up and out of the trim area by removing the cup holder on top.
I followed the OEM wiring loom up the rear pillar on the driver's side. I drilled a 3/4" hole in the roof and set in a grommet. My bundle terminates in a 15 pin Molex connector, so I can remove the roof rack if needed.
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That's a nice set up. I don't have the electrical knowledge to figure something like that out.
It's not as bad as it looks.
To do what I did... you run a data cable to the switches. In this case, it's #20 AWG stranded wire. (Never use solid core in a vehicle, it will fatigue and break)
Power and ground to the switches is run through the same cable. Ground is needed for the switch's indicator lights. Loop the power and ground to all the switches. The other colored wires go from the switch's on side (Goes live when the switch is on) to your relay coils, in the case of the usual Bosch relay, that would be terminal #86.
If you use a fuse block like I did, then your individual fused power feeds will go to each relay's terminal #30. You can also tie all the power wires together at the end of a large wire, and ''fan out'' smaller ones (Like #12AWG) for all the relays. We've done that in many cop car builds.
Ground all the relay terminals #85. (#85 and #86 is the relay coil, and a lot have internal polarity diodes, so you need to make sure power is to #86)
The only thing left is each relay's #87 terminal, which powers your lights and whatever.
The main advantage of relays is your accessory switches only power on relay coils at about 0.1 amp each. Your switches will last forever. The relay can carry the heavy loads, and you only need one big wire to power everything.
http://www.rigidindustries.com/ or nothing at all!
But I also really like visionX lights and the KC slimlights