will go forward in 4 lo, but will not go in 4 hi

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06-19-2011, 07:18 PM
pjmjr508

Thanks lol

Well just got the half shaft replacement done and it was a real pain in my a**

Using only hand tools on jack stands.
Had to disco the sway bar link
strut fork
upper ball joint
tierod end
remove the caliper

With all that it took me 2 days (6 to 7 hours) (part of the reason for so long have been on oxycondone from foot surgery.
The snap ring holding the inner cv axle to the diff was a big pain. I ended up having my next door neighborer come over with his cub tractor with a 3k winch on the front. Had to wrap a strap around the cv housing then slowly winched until the snap ring popped. Yes I said a tractor. I will throw up a pic soon.

I don't want to do that again so I am re thinking about upgrading those to be stronger to prevent these from breaking. So here is my question; if I put a stronger part there wht is the next weak link to break?
06-20-2011, 03:33 AM
Matt

The diff.

You'd be better off just paying someone to replace the CV as opposed to paying to upgrade the CVs and then paying someone to fix/replace the diff.

Two things help in removing the CV. First... a really long pry bar to get the leverage needed. Second, and you try to pop it out with the pry bar you keep rotating it to find the position where the snap ring drops into the axle and makes it easier to remove.
06-28-2011, 07:39 PM
07JeepXK

Hmmm... those CV's pop right out. You shouldn't have needed a tractor to do it. lol
06-28-2011, 11:43 PM
pjmjr508

I know I have done several cv joint replacements over the years but this was a royal pain. It would not pop the c clip and release the inside joint.
11-19-2011, 03:35 PM
pjmjr508

Ok I know it has been awhile since I have come back to this thread & to close it out with a final report of all that happened to the jeep from this weekend trip in damage;

Passenger side half shaft broken
2 bent rims (Passenger Side)
Dented in rear passenger
Mud everywhere inside & out & the leather is stained from the mud.

I will post a pic of the door as well- It got bent when trying to change out the tire while on the trail from the HI-Lift Jack connected to the 4x sliders.

Maybe you guys can give me your views on this;
About the 2 bent rims, they are the stock chrome clad 17s from the limited/Overland Editions & my question is this
Replace them or attempt to get them fixed?
11-19-2011, 04:15 PM
Sal-XK

Do some searching around craigs list ebay and other 4x4 forums for some new used wheels. I think it may even be cost effective to purchase new aftermarket wheels (if you don't go crazy) then to worry about those clad wheels which are a pain to balance anyway aren't they.
11-19-2011, 04:25 PM
pjmjr508

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sal-XK

Do some searching around craigs list ebay and other 4x4 forums for some new used wheels. I think it may even be cost effective to purchase new aftermarket wheels (if you don't go crazy) then to worry about those clad wheels which are a pain to balance anyway aren't they.

I agree with this, just if I go to replace all my rims then I will want ones where I don't have to continue using spacers & that limits my choices & don't really have the money for that.

if I remember right it will need -.25mm offset for the rimes to go without spacers right?
11-19-2011, 04:29 PM
Sal-XK

Quote:

Originally Posted by pjmjr508

if I remember right it will need -.25mm offset for the rimes to go without spacers right?

Ya know I've read the answer to this a dozen times but can't remember what it is I thought it was +12 but wait for one of the wheel experts to log on.
11-19-2011, 04:32 PM
pjmjr508

I have read it quite a few times as well, just can't remember as well so hopefully one of them will give me the correct info.
11-19-2011, 04:34 PM
pjmjr508

If it is the exhaust headers making the ticking, that should be covered by extended warranty, right ? Just wish someone made full headers for the XK & I would just swapp out for that instead.
11-19-2011, 04:37 PM
Matt

Offset varies on wheel width. Ideally you want a wheel with 5 to 5.5" backspace.
11-19-2011, 04:39 PM
pjmjr508

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt

Offset varies on wheel width. Ideally you want a wheel with 5 to 5.5" backspace.

and this will make it that I do not need to run spacers & can run 265-70/17's with out rubbing?
11-19-2011, 04:41 PM
Sal-XK

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt

Offset varies on wheel width. Ideally you want a wheel with 5 to 5.5" backspace.

Wheel sizes still confuse me https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...onsmiley-1.gif
11-19-2011, 04:43 PM
Matt

Quote:

Originally Posted by pjmjr508

and this will make it that I do not need to run spacers & can run 265-70/17's with out rubbing?

The backspace will ensure you don't have an issue with the balljoint. As far as rubbing the fenders you just have to make sure you get a reasonable width wheel.... the wider the wheel the more likely you are to rub. 8-9 inch inch is key on these vehicles.
11-19-2011, 04:49 PM
Matt

Lol yeah wheel sizes can be tricky. Like I'm running 4.5" backspace but they're only 8" wide.... in terms of where the outside of the tire sits that would be like running a 9" wide wheel with 5.5" backspace.

To help with fitment its good to target 8" wide with 5" backspace or 8.5" wide with 5.5" backspace.
11-19-2011, 04:49 PM
pjmjr508

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt

The backspace will ensure you don't have an issue with the balljoint. As far as rubbing the fenders you just have to make sure you get a reasonable width wheel.... the wider the wheel the more likely you are to rub. 8-9 inch inch is key on these vehicles.

BTW Thanks for your input & it does make sense.
I am running that size tire now & no issues.
If I am not mistaken the OEM ones are 7" width? (I am prob wrong but going off memory ATM)
11-19-2011, 05:49 PM
Holaday07 4.7

How did the High Lift f up the door?
11-19-2011, 06:07 PM
Matt

Quote:

Originally Posted by pjmjr508

BTW Thanks for your input & it does make sense.
I am running that size tire now & no issues.
If I am not mistaken the OEM ones are 7" width? (I am prob wrong but going off memory ATM)

I believe the stock wheels are 7.5" wide with 6" backspace (lol but im not 100% sure on that either. If it wasn't so dark out i'd go and take a look at my stock wheels to be sure). If you're running 1.5" wheel spacers then that's like running a 7.5" wide wheel with 4.5" backspace.

I like talking in terms of "backspace" because its easy to visualize where the wheel actually sits. The backspace is the distance that the inside edge of the wheel sits from the hub. So if you take the Width - Backspace, you then know how far out the wheel sits from the hub as well and its easy to compare wheel vs wheel.

For example, my aftermarket 8" wide wheels with 4.5" backspace have the same "inner" clearance as your stock wheels with 1.5" spacers because they have the same equivalent backspace. BUT, the outer edge of your wheel is 3" from the hub (7.5-4.5) whereas my outer edge is 3.5" from the hub (8-4.5); so my wheels stick out 1/2" further than yours.

If you want a wheel that sits the same distance out as your current setup (stock 7.5" with 1.5" spacers) then you'd want an 8" wheel with 5" backspace since 8-5=3".
11-19-2011, 06:50 PM
Sal-XK

Quote:

Originally Posted by Holaday07 4.7

How did the High Lift f up the door?

What he said!
11-21-2011, 06:21 AM
pjmjr508

Quote:

Originally Posted by Holaday07 4.7

How did the High Lift f up the door?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sal-XK

What he said!

Not sure if it slid out of the notch on the bottom of the sliders or if the jeep shifted while in the air, but the jack ended pressing in a crease in the door. I will take a pic & show the aftermath. It was the first time I had used the jack with the sliders & it was in the mud while raining on trail side. Body shop said it's 700 to repair. Not high priority at the moment.

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