Will these be "bolt on" or " weld on"?
Printable View
Will these be "bolt on" or " weld on"?
Looks like they're trying to make them bolt on. Docs working on how they're going to install now.
Cool, kinda would lke to see a little upward angle on them, bit they are looking nice!
Bolt on or weld on doesn't matter to me. From the pictures shown I think I will be asking to tweak the design a little bit. I would want them up as high as possible so the door cleared and also want them to stick out as far as possible as well.
It's hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like there up as high as they can go. I just can't tell how far they stick out.
I know you have the spacers on your XK. Do they come out even with your tires? Or do they go past your tires?
Got the 4XG sliders on today.
Before:
https://theultimatejeep.com/notfound.png
During:
https://theultimatejeep.com/notfound.png
After:
https://theultimatejeep.com/notfound.png
Whole job took about 2 hours (solo) All went fairly smooth. They look great. Only mild complaint being that instructions and picture indicate screws to attach upper portion of the slider to the inside of the door and pop rivets were sent instead. Can't wait to get out and beat them up a bit.
looks great
Wow, those are the best pictures i've seen yet that show how much wider the 4xG sliders are. That's a very solid product right there!
here's my two cents... lol
i just saw a set of the 4x sliders today, i have always liked how they were a formed piece and had a very stock look to them, but... they only rivet inside the door sill & they are just aluminum rivets at that. i think riv-nuts would be a much stronger alternative.
as for our sliders, if you have ever taken off the plastic below the doors you have seen it's all angled under there. these sit against the sheet metal at a 17* angle as jon mentioned before, then the nerf bars end up coming straight out parallel to the ground. they go just far enough below the pinch seam to protect it but still allow for plenty of ground clearance. they are bolt on, and there are a lot of bolts to make sure it's rock solid. i can build them with or without the nerf bars, your choice. it looks like price point will be about $500 plus shipping. they will be shipping out raw, paint is up to you.
on a side note, if you guys have sliders like the 4X and would like to add nerf bars we make just those and you can weld them on yourself.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...19142740-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...19142725-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...19142654-1.jpg
So $500.00 with the nerf bars? or would there be a reduced cost without them. I think they look great, any way to make the slider flat and the nerf bar angled up? Just wanting to know if they are built to order or how this will work. Been in the market for these since I got the Jeep and I really like these.
if i make them flat you will have the same problem as the sliders we replaced... they have no support at the outter edge and once you hit something it will bend upward and tweak the body panels. without the nerf bars it would be about $400. they will be built to order, we typically have about a 4-6 week lead for appointments to do your build. i hate to beat a dead horse here, but if you guys can get together on this, or anything i build, i'll get you a better price if we can do a run of at least 5 items, 10 would be better for all of us for both price and production ease.
Hey that sounds great. I was thinking that the angle would deflect any object to the far edge of nerf bar and that would leverage the most force. Sounds like you know much better than myself, I am going to start a group buy thread for this.
So, how is the mounting different from the other brand ? How is it supported directly under the outer rocker. In teh last pic, it looks as though the square tube is cocked at an angle. Is it ? I would like it to be straight and level. I havent seen the 4X parts in person but I like the look. My concern is the way they mount and having any strength. I also dont like having the screws ( or rivets - WTF ? ) in my door jamb.
From what he was saying above, I guess to mount them flat makes them weaker. Maybe if Doc posts pics of the mounting it will make more sense. I have never seen sliders that were angled like that unless someone was Boatsiding the rockers. If they work then awesome, everything else about them looks good to me.
The angle thing threw me for a loop as well. But Doc knows his stuff so if its like that its like that for a reasons I'm sure.
I was in Doc's shop this morning and seeing the angle in person make sense. The underside of the XK under the doors is not flat/level/parallel to the ground. It angles upward to the doors. Doc's sliders look very solid and would mount flat to the bottom of the XK matching the factory body angle. Then the 17* degree angle is on the nerf bar itself so when installed the nerf sits flat and parallel to the ground. I really like Doc's sliders but they were not attached to Jon's XK when I was there so I couldn't tell you how they mounted to the XK itself
Also, looking at the pictures, since the boxed frame does not sit flat and level it would seem to me that it would minimize surface area contact on rocks and cause less friction dragging over them
I will go back again tomorrow when they are finished and paint them before the are installed, I will get some photos for sharing and then install them for Camp Commander.
You guys are so funny
These are like a mini boatside rocker. The rock sliders are at an angle, the bottom of the truck is at an angle, so the rock slider sits against the bottom of the body and touches it. This does a couple things, one the rock slider is supported all the way from front to rear by the unibody. This is much better than a rock slider that is fastened to the frame and has a long stanchion that is easily bent. The whole passenger side of this jeep is tweaked upwards from sliders that bent. Secondly the unibody is now also being supported by the rock slider, this helps reduce, but will not eliminate, some of the body twist the unibodies are known for
I am interested in seeing where this goes. Also, as with all of the other great mods being worked on, looking forward to more pictures :cool:
I will say this, I like how 4XG mounts theirs as well. They basically clamp it to the entire pinch weld with through bolts and a thick steel L-bracket on the other side. Pinch welds on these vehicles are very strong.. and with a setup like this you'd have to bend the entire pinch weld at the same time, which I dont really see happening.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...1/053JPG-1.jpg
In any case, i'm glad to see another option! Especially since I really like the steps and added protection from Doc's. It's going to be a very tough choice when i'm ready to put sliders on! (and that's a good thing)
Jon said I could post these.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...1/07/309-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...1/07/312-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...1/07/314-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...1/07/315-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i.../07/3161-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...1/07/317-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...1/07/318-1.jpg
I know Matt already posted up a pick of the underside of the 4xGuard rails, but I thought I would add to it.
The rivets are not what is holding the rails on. There are 6 grade 8 bolts per side that go through the pinch weld using holes that are already there and then through the included L bracket.
This is what the rocker looks like after removing the plastic:
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...19c8ed41-1.jpg
As you can see after the pinch weld the rocker angles up then cuts in where it meets up with the door openings. The sliders cup over this entire area. You can actually place them over the rocker and they will stay in place (makes instal quite easy). Then you drill small holes into the top of the rocker and install the aluminum(noncorrosive) rivets. At least that is what is included now that the cost of the zinc coated screws went up in price.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...7d0c74e3-1.jpg
Don't get me wrong, I LOVE that other companies are making products for us. And I have nothing against the other designs. I just don't want everyone thinking that the 4xGuard rail might fall off because they are only installed using aluminum rivets.
Thanks for the clarification!
Sorry i didnt make that very clear in my post... i meant to point out the fact that they're through bolted with high grade bolts, not just aluminum rivets. There is no question in my mind that they are a very solid product based on how they're mounted.
Ask p@55w0rd how well that mounting system worked for him. He has the pics to show what happened.
In all honesty they can take a light hit and sliding, but the crud I throw and have thrown at them on the last trip would have wadded them right into the fender and bent the snot out of the rocker mounting area. Huey's grandson took a pic of my sliders suspending my truck off the ground when I ran it fender high between 2 boulders on Chinaman Gulch. I wouldn't have done it with any that mount to the top of the rocker panel.
Just my .02, but I like the way mine and Knappster's mount.
I did it with 4xG sideguards. Also dropped off the entry point to Grizzly lake using the sliders...with no issues other than paint tranferred tot he rocks.I suppose it could pull out of the rocker panel but would need an extreme hit. I know Trialbyfire had this issue from befor WCCC but i am not sure what he did to cause it.
Maybe someone will use a triple mounting system to make them sleek and strong as a bull.
J, I was really surprised yours held up as well as they did. Everytime I saw you bump them I thought about the nuts pulling out of the metal.
So the 4xG ones are no good, if you actually use them. What ones do you have Tymac. I dont want something that will cause more damage.
Just for a bit of reference information, I would not recommend referencing p@55word's p@5t experience with those of the Side Guard 2. As I explained in the "other" forum at one point, the fellow who made p@55word's rails built them with no internal gusseting, no external stiffener, no internal stiffener, and seemingly without any sense of the engineering behind the bends in the steel. I would have been shocked if they hadn't bent all to heck!
Also, quite contrary to what Doc says, the attachment points along the top edge of the Side Guard do not hold the weight of the vehicle. (Doc seems a smart fellow, so I'm assuming he just didn't look at them very closely before making that accusation.) The attachment points on the top side almost entirely aesthetic. On one side of our WK test rig -- the one we like to bounce on things -- we have only the bottom bolts attached, nothing on the top side. It hasn't been the slightest problem.
For what it's worth, the engineers at Jeep apparently, um, agree with our engineering. (I'd like to use another phrase or two for what they've done, but I don't think I can legally do so!)
Gotcha, and since I am not part of you guys, it looks like they Screwed you all and stole your design. The Front guard is I got is great, so I did not want to assume anything. Thank you Michael. Oh and I came accross your Blog when googling 4xguard, great read.
Pulled the plug on the 4xguard rails and the belly guard, as they will soon no longer be in business. I already have the whole 4xguard front brush guard and can't wait to add more of their very well made products to my rig.
I agree, I really wanted to progressively add their products over time, but when I found out they were going out of business I purchased what I believe to be their two most purpose built products.
In still need to pick up the front skid & rear sliders.
I already have the rest that I want from them. I am talking to a welder to make me front & rear bumpers here that local, cost to much to have them made out of state & shipped here. Hopefully either by the end of the year or the begining of next I should have them on (god willing lol)
What's the XK rock slider stock looking like?