Coming Up On 100K Miles - Service Help??

So I'm about 1K miles away from hitting 100K miles. I bought my Jeep with 90K last March, and haven't really done anything mechanically except oil changes. It was bought new in 2005 by an older gentleman, and then owned by his sister, before being traded back in at the same dealership it was bought from (shop where I bought it). All I know is the service has always been done at this dealer, and from what I was told, it was well taken care of. I'm just curious what should be done, as far as plugs, fluids, etc., as I come up on 100K. I'm not very mechanically inclined, and live in an apartment with limited tools, so its hard for me to do much especially in the middle of winter. So I'll probably have my brother in law have the mechanics at his shop do most of the work when it goes in for an oil change in a few hundred miles. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys. :)

if you bought it at 90k, you probably need to do everything that was due then (not many people do a major service before selling).

90k would be:
Spark plugs
both differentials
Tcase oil
PCV valve

I'd have the mechanic check pull a plug, if its old then do everything listed above plus your normal oil change. I would also recommend a coolant flush.

Is there any way you can contact the dealer you purchased the Jeep from and find out if the transmission has been serviced. If not it would be a good time to do that.

Alright thanks guys. I'm going to plan on having all of the above done when it goes in for the next oil change.

Taking the Jeep in tomorrow to have the sway bar links replaced for free. Might see if they can sneak in a swap of the spark plugs too. I luckily have a hook up at a local Jeep dealer. Also, talked with the guys from aFe and they are sending a replacement part for my reducer coupler at no cost.

Nice man. The dealer said it be about 600$ for all of the things Matt listed above, plus a new air filter and coolant flush. So I decided I'm going to do some of it myself. Air filter and plugs for sure, I'm not sure how much of the fluid changes I'll be able to do.

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You can definitely handle the differentials and tcase fluid changes.... especially the front diff and tcase since they're just "drain & fill"

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Originally Posted by ItsMeKO3

Nice man. The dealer said it be about 600$ for all of the things Matt listed above, plus a new air filter and coolant flush. So I decided I'm going to do some of it myself. Air filter and plugs for sure, I'm not sure how much of the fluid changes I'll be able to do.

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Wow bro we can walk you threw doing your own fluid changes man. It's really not that hard.

Coolant isn't bad either right? Just drain, fill, run, fill, run, fill?

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Originally Posted by CmmdrDan

Coolant isn't bad either right? Just drain, fill, run, fill, run, fill?

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nope that will give you air in the system.

You can do the difs for about $40 a piece about $30 for the TC.

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Originally Posted by CmmdrDan

Coolant isn't bad either right? Just drain, fill, run, fill, run, fill?

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Coolants not bad.... but you need to locate the bleed port otherwise you'll never get all of the air out.

Huh? You fill to top. Start engine till the level goes down and restart and contuine till done right?

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Originally Posted by CmmdrDan

Huh? You fill to top. Start engine till the level goes down and restart and contuine till done right?

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this will help http://www.theultimatejeep.com/showt...Cooling-System

Trans http://www.theultimatejeep.com/showt...uid-amp-Filter

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Originally Posted by CmmdrDan

Huh? You fill to top. Start engine till the level goes down and restart and contuine till done right?

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On some vehicles yes. On these, no.

(though it looks like that how it is for the 3.7L... could've sworn there was a bleed port on my wifes Liberty though when i did that one, but might be wrong)

Well I need to get my ass in gear and start doing some of these things. The shop couldn't do much for me on prices, but if I go over on a weekend I'll have full access to the garage, lifts and whatever tools I'll need. Thanks for the links Sal, I'm sure they'll come in handy. And believe me, once I get the balls to try to do these things, I'll definitely be on here asking tons of questions lol.

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Originally Posted by CmmdrDan

Coolant isn't bad either right? Just drain, fill, run, fill, run, fill?

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Trust me you do not want to do it like that, I learned the hard way last week.

Whelp im going to bump this thread.
My rig is coming up on 100k here in the next few months. I have done the TC fluid change ealier this year, and diffs at about 89k. Plugs were at 80ish I think.

So that leaves the PCV valve? Whats this thing look like? where is it at on the 4.7? Can I change it myself?

Also, is there any gain from changing the oil from conventional to synthetic at 100k? I am lame and have the shop change my oil with the normal stuff, and have done so for the last 4 years. Should I switch to Synthetic?

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Originally Posted by BonesWK

Whelp im going to bump this thread.
My rig is coming up on 100k here in the next few months. I have done the TC fluid change ealier this year, and diffs at about 89k. Plugs were at 80ish I think.

So that leaves the PCV valve? Whats this thing look like? where is it at on the 4.7? Can I change it myself?

Also, is there any gain from changing the oil from conventional to synthetic at 100k? I am lame and have the shop change my oil with the normal stuff, and have done so for the last 4 years. Should I switch to Synthetic?

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The PCV valve on the 4.7 L is easy to swap out and yes you can do it yourself. Its located on the drivers side of the engine bay towards the fire wall on the top of the motor. Not far from the last fuel injector and spark plug. Once you pick up the new PCV valve from the store you will see exactly what it looks like and have no problem locating it on the engine. It does take a huge wrench though to get the old one off and the new one on. I bought a wrench specifically for the PVC valve and cut it down with my angle grinder so I can get in there with it. Its sort of in a tight spot.

X2... pcv is easy to change. Recommend buying a crows foot instead of a giant wrench though; might save some "tool mod" time lol.

Don't sweat it about the oil. Continue doing your routine maintenance and call it good. There's also nothing wrong with switching over if you wanted to start running a better oil and stretch out the interval.

about 1500 shy of 90k.. ugh!

time to start gathering the parts for the 90k service. when did you guys change your belts? on a need to basis?

i know at 60k i had the PCV, all fluids drained and filled, front rotors, tranny filters, plugs, tranny lines- all changed. the EGR i had done at a dealer around 75k- which i think they got my ass and didnt do it cause the symptoms i had that indicated it could have been the EGR are still present.

I did my serpitine belt at about 91k. I think that is the only belt to change on our rigs. I changed it because it seemed like a good time to do it. no wear or anything was present.

SUPER EASY to do. Look it up under the How-To section I posted some helpful maintenance vids for the 4.7. The belt was the easiest thing to do by far

I would change the belt by 100k. Cheap and easy preventative maintenance. Ill probably do mine sooner since I don't put many miles on.

I replaced my oem belt at 105,000 and it still seemed like it was in good shape. I only did it so I didnt have to worry it going bad later on and getting stranded somewhere.