options for running 33s

so i just read the post for the OME lift and one of the post mentioned that the OME lift isnt necessarily needed if youre just streeting your WK and not adding bumpers, skids out the ass, etc... well thats me in a nutshell- daily driver, minimum skids and minimal wheeling.

so my question is given that i have a daystar BB, bilstein HDs.. would swapping this out for the RRO to gain another 1/4" plus a strut spacer and maybe some monroe LLs- add enough room for 33s? i currently have the OME rear shocks and the HD coils in my basement, i just need the struts... but i could sell that stuff to get whatever is needed to squeeze 33s on my rig.

thanks for the help.

I'm running 33s with the OME HD coils. I did a lot of work to the XK to get them to fit properly though. I added two inch bump stop spacers in the rear. Up front I did the rear ac/heat delete to get rid of the lines that run behind the passenger side front tire. Trimmed the front fender flare and totally cut the entire pinch weld area out. If you don't want to do all of that your better off just going with 32s

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Originally Posted by 07JeepXK

I'm running 33s with the OME HD coils. I did a lot of work to the XK to get them to fit properly though. I added two inch bump stop spacers in the rear. Up front I did the rear ac/heat delete to get rid of the lines that run behind the passenger side front tire. Trimmed the front fender flare and totally cut the entire pinch weld area out. If you don't want to do all of that your better off just going with 32s

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you sure all thats necessary on a WK? i figured front and rear pinch weld work would be suffice and maybe rear bumpstops?

Yeah 33s are really tough to fit without a solid 4".

If you're willing to trim as mentioned above your best bet is OME HD + 1/4" spacers and getting wheels with the peeeeerfect width/backspace; the further the wheel sticks out, the further the tire gets pushed into the firewall when the tire turns.

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Originally Posted by 07JeepXK

I'm running 33s with the OME HD coils. I did a lot of work to the XK to get them to fit properly though. I added two inch bump stop spacers in the rear. Up front I did the rear ac/heat delete to get rid of the lines that run behind the passenger side front tire. Trimmed the front fender flare and totally cut the entire pinch weld area out. If you don't want to do all of that your better off just going with 32s

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Yup I did about the same to get mine to fit tons a trimming cutting welding.

Guys, this gentleman owns a WK... not an XK. This removes a lot of the complexities you all had to deal with. But to answer your immediate question, Paroxysm, yes. If you can get a minimum 2.5" of lift front and rear and are willing to do the pinchweld mod, you can also sport 33's. Although you may be driving mostly on the street - do keep in mind that there are unforeseen situations where your suspension will still flex.

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Originally Posted by paroxysym

you sure all thats necessary on a WK? i figured front and rear pinch weld work would be suffice and maybe rear bumpstops?

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I didn't realize that you have a WK. If done properly you can run 33s. The biggest thing is having a tire/wheel combo with the proper offset/back spacing. My buddy has 33x12.5s on his 4 inch BDS lifted WK and had to completely cut the entire pinch weld area out because his tires stick out really far from the frnder. Nothing is impossible on our jeeps. Hell I'm running 33s on a two inch lift with no rubbing and I know guys with 4 inch lifted XKs and 33's that have rubbing. Its all about the setup your running.

Damn I was thinking XK too..... wish we could see sigs & stuff in tapatalk, sometimes I forget what the OP drives

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Originally Posted by Matt

Damn I was thinking XK too..... wish we could see sigs & stuff in tapatalk, sometimes I forget what the OP drives

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The one down fall to this app so far.

Ya man if you are thinking 285/70r17 for 33" then you can do it. Like others have said take care of the front and rear fenders, extend the rear bumpstops, and get the right backspacing. I had an OME MD with 285s with those mods and it worked great. I used Moabs with .25" spacers and only rubbed up front at full lock.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...IMG_3852-1.jpg

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...IMG_3848-1.jpg

Dont think extended rear bumpstops will be necessary. From the sound of it, his swaybars will never be disconnected. Not to mention... Chris had his WK on a 33x12.5 tire on MOABs with only spidertrax in the front with just an RK lift.

I had to run extended bump stops on the rear of my XK. If not I would rip the rear flares right of when it articulates. On my old setup the BDS rear spacer acted like a bump stop spacer. But when I swapped in the OME coils the bump stop went back to how it was prior to being lifted. I know he has a WK but the last thing you want to do it tear up a set of brand new tires cause your rubbing on the inside of the fender

You can still reach full stuff with the sway bar connected, I did it all the time. Also have you ever actually measured a set of 33s? Like most tires they are not as big as they should be. When I had them on my XJ they were closer to 32s then actual 33s. And chris was running spacers in the rear originally until I recommended he remove them and roll the fender to stop his rubbing :)

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Originally Posted by Omelet

You can still reach full stuff with the sway bar connected, I did it all the time. Also have you ever actually measured a set of 33s? Like most tires they are not as big as they should be. When I had them on my XJ they were closer to 32s then actual 33s. And chris was running spacers in the rear originally until I recommended he remove them and roll the fender to stop his rubbing :)

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I measured my tires the day I installed them to correct my speedometer. They measured over 32 inches but I cant remember the exact measurement. I posted it in the tire thread. But one thing you have to remember is there aren't many tires that measure out to what they are listed. With that being said the stock tires 245/65R17 are supposedly 29.5 inches tall but really only measure about 28.5 inches. So in the end, you still have to take in consideration that you are going with a tire thats almost 4 inches taller with only 2 inches of lift. As for the full stuff, you will never be able to do that on an XK running 33's with a 2 inch lift without ripping the flares right off. So I guess thats a benifit of owning a WK and having more open fenders where you can fit a bigger tire. He is a picture right after I installed the 2 inch bump stops in the rear. The tire totally stuffed inside the fender and just touches the rear of the flare. Without the bump stop spacers I would be picking both rear fender flares off the ground. Sometimes I wish I had bought a WK. Looks like I just need to work with Knappster and fab up some rear tube flares to go along with the front ones he sells so I can take out those bump stop extenders I installed. In the picture I have my JSK Quick Disconnects Connected.


https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...IMAG0296-1.jpg

Just double-stack it and slip on some 35"s I have been like this for like 2 years and no problems. https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i.../photo10-1.jpg[/IMG]https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...5/photo8-1.jpg

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Originally Posted by Omelet

You can still reach full stuff with the sway bar connected, I did it all the time. Also have you ever actually measured a set of 33s? Like most tires they are not as big as they should be. When I had them on my XJ they were closer to 32s then actual 33s. And chris was running spacers in the rear originally until I recommended he remove them and roll the fender to stop his rubbing :)

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My only argument is that he won't need extended bumpstops. Chris didn't have extended bumpstops, he didn't have monroe load levelers, and he didn't have 285's.

NEED? No, but depending how hard he wheels it they will rub the fender if he doesn't have the right backspacing. Running the Moabs with .25" spacers and 285s was the sweet spot for the rear with the fender rolled. But most guys don't want to run a .25" spacer and the closest you an get to that with stock wheels is a 1" spacer, that's a .5" difference. I know Lifted_Up was running 285s with 1.25" spacers and had to extend the bumpstops because he was rubbing. I'm just trying to speak from experience! But please try whatever setup you want and let us know how it works out for you.

im planning on doing the pinch weld within the next month.... looking to run a 285 on moabs- i have 1/4" wheel spacers, but was thinking of going to 1". as for wheeling, it wouldnt be nothing serious- dont have much time to wheel. i thought i saw on JF a rig with a BB and 285s, looked legit and squatty (which i kind of like that look).

so aside from maybe a bigger BB like a RRO (since i think my daystar runs alittle on the small side), and maybe some rear monroe LLs... what else would be needed to accommodate 285s?

thanks for the help guys.

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Originally Posted by Omelet

NEED? No, but depending how hard he wheels it they will rub the fender if he doesn't have the right backspacing. Running the Moabs with .25" spacers and 285s was the sweet spot for the rear with the fender rolled. But most guys don't want to run a .25" spacer and the closest you an get to that with stock wheels is a 1" spacer, that's a .5" difference. I know Lifted_Up was running 285s with 1.25" spacers and had to extend the bumpstops because he was rubbing. I'm just trying to speak from experience! But please try whatever setup you want and let us know how it works out for you.

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agreed. Which he stated will be minimal.

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Originally Posted by paroxysym

im planning on doing the pinch weld within the next month.... looking to run a 285 on moabs- i have 1/4" wheel spacers, but was thinking of going to 1". as for wheeling, it wouldnt be nothing serious- dont have much time to wheel. i thought i saw on JF a rig with a BB and 285s, looked legit and squatty (which i kind of like that look).

so aside from maybe a bigger BB like a RRO (since i think my daystar runs alittle on the small side), and maybe some rear monroe LLs... what else would be needed to accommodate 285s?

thanks for the help guys.

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A set of JBA HD UCA's kinda like the ones i'll be selling here very soon!

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Originally Posted by 07JeepXK

A set of JBA HD UCA's kinda like the ones i'll be selling here very soon!

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i may pick those up regardless... for the right price.

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Originally Posted by paroxysym

i may pick those up regardless... for the right price.

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$300 shipped to your door along with a brand new spare H1 Hummer Ball Joint. I do a lot of off roading and want to get the Rocky Road UCA's. The JBA's are great for someone who is lifted and doesnt plan on wheeling a lot and wants a set of bullet proof UCA's. They were designed to go with their JBA coilovers so at full drop they rub the coil isolator. JBA is aware of this and said its not a big deal. I've had them for a few month and no problem even when off roading. My alignment is dead on now too with these UCA's. I paid over $500 for everything shipped to my house with the extra ball joint. Let me know if your interested.

So I just saw a pic of a RRO BB and 285s... Looked legit. So being the indecisive person I am, I'm thinking parts needed for this to work: RRO BB, new spring isolators, maybe RRO UCAs. I have the HD bilsteins, I'd add LLs if need be.

All I need is OME front struts and I have a complete OME HD kit..

So why not get ome stuts and call it a day?? That's your best bet if you ask me. I ran a spacer lift for years and hated it. The OME lift is so much better