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Stock Skids
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...idplates-1.jpg
With 4xguard skids and armor
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...04xguard-1.jpg
1) Front Guard: $230 From 4xguard
2) Belly Guard: $170 From 4xguard
3) T-Case Skid Plate: $47 From jparts
4) Front Susp Skid Plate: $47 From jparts
5) Fuel Tank Skid Plate : $180 From jparts
6) Rock Rails 4xguard $549
7) Diff Guard 4xguard $149
8) Rear Sliders 4xguard $299
Well done.
I can't wait to start chopping away at the armor list!
I know I finally can go wheeling and relax a little bit now. :) I just need to get some rock rails now.
Good use of the pic!
You should put a little green X next to the completed ones...
thanks when I was looking at the pic you posted I just thought we should have one that showed were all the armor goes. I have 5 out of 8 now :)Quote:
Originally Posted by cico7
Just as a point of discussion. Maybe we should talk about priority, I realize this will vary depending on where you wheel, but..
I'd rank all the OEM skids and the Belly Guard highest and then the diff guard. Reason being any damage to what those skids protect and you aren't driving home (if its serious enough)
I would put the rear sliders next from personal experience, I have lightly damaged the underside of my rear bumper. So I think this comes before the front skid in my book because the approach angle is better than the departure angle.
I think I would even put the rock rails before the front skid.
The only reason I see for getting the front skid before the others is the look and if you are a "momentum wheeler" for lack of a better term..
All of this of course is my personal opinion from what I've seen and done..
Those are some good points. I would say that the front skid protects vital mechanical parts though. You can get home if you rip your bumper off but if you smash into that radiator or the any of the lines it covers up your not going any further. The diff guard low priority the 8.25 is rock solid and can take some serious abuse and its reasonable to pick lines to keep the diff safe. I would say cover all mechanical parts first then protect the cosmetic's of the jeep. just a thought
I've hit my diff, I haven't hit my front bumper. I figure in a "crawling" mode I'm not going to damage the radiator.. Once I'm on an obstacle all the other stuff is in harms way and I don't have as much control over speed as I do for first getting the front end up on top of it. Just some more justification for how I wheel and my reasoning.
I don't forsee anyone saying "I'm right you are wrong" but just in case this is going to be different for everyone and they should just read examples of what others have encountered and make their own judgment call on what is right for them.
I look at benefit/cost ratio.
I agree, the stock skids + belly guard is #1.
Next in my book is the front guard. It's very affordable and it prevents damage to radiator/condenser. In places i offroad where you have to drive through some water/mud, you're very prone to a large stick or something popping up and getting caught in that area (i've seen it happen).
Rock rails and rear sliders are 50/50 in my book.. depends on where you wheel and if you have a factory hitch. If you don't have a factory hitch, then the rear sliders double as recovery points and they take the lead.
That's my $02 anyway :)
I'm not saying anyone is right or wrong here bro don't misunderstand me. Like you said its good to get everyones input on the subject because we also wheel in different environments so we have different needs. I can see your point a view as well but covering all the mechanical parts for me was important because you never know when you going to slip off that rock or how you will land when it happens. In Uwharrie I did just that but landed on a tree instead LOL no armor on the B pillar :) I've landed on the diff as well and after inspecting the damage or lack of damage I can say its real solid and has a lip to help prevent the cover from getting peeled back. Rock rails are next for me I have the 5 skids for underneath now and the rails are where I take a lot hits or where my running boards take a lot of hits :)
Ah I haven't seen much water/mud in the offroading I've done so I don't think about that. I'm in the rocks/desert so I drive up and know what I'm getting into. Slow drive up to a rock to crawl over it not a whole lot is going to happen to the front end as long as I'm taking it slow.Quote:
Next in my book is the front guard. It's very affordable and it prevents damage to radiator/condenser. In places i offroad where you have to drive through some water/mud, you're very prone to a large stick or something popping up and getting caught in that area (i've seen it happen).
I didn't mean to imply you were saying that Sal, I just wanted to nip it before it did happen to/from anyone since there is so many variables in location of offroading.
When I hit my diff I did manage to cause a leak, it was minor so I drove it without a problem but it did leak.
Man you must of come down on that thing pretty hard to cause a leak. I landed on mine and dragged it down a rock and had no issues. I'm not sure but by looking at the pictures from 4xguard it just looks like the guard only protects the cover from being smashed into the gears not from peeling it back we might need to get some feed back on this from them. I would think you could just weld a piece of steel to the bottom of the diff that over hung past the cover a little bit so you could just slide right off. I'm just brain storming I guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by hoaxci5
I didn't come down on it, I dragged it across a rock and then backed up. It didn't peel it back, but it was enough to break the silicone gasket and cause the leak. That is why I'm anxiously awaiting someone to make a yoke/diff slider more than anything else, I expect it to be $150ish and then it only takes 3 of my opps to pay for itself since synthetic gear oil is so much.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sal-XK
I asked 4x and they apparently have a model no plans to make a diff slider. I'm sure I could fab something up, but I'm hoping for a quality product from someone :)
I think a diff slider can be way easy to fab up bro. I bet since its your rig you will probably end up with something more functional then what someone will make and charge us $200 for. A solid piece of metal 12" long curved on both ends so you get on and off of it smoothly. Same can be said really for the rear sliders as well. You could weld some metal to the rails back there.
I'm not a good enough fabricator to make something easily removable to still be able to change the fluid. Believe me I've looked, as soon as someone else makes it I might be able to replicated, but I haven't figure it out yet.
Same goes for rear sliders, I could make something nasty looking I'm sure for about half the price of 4x sliders, but for as nasty as it would look and my time, I'd just pay for a quality product.
Dude at $300 for sliders I think you can make some for a lot less then half. If you spent $100 including paint I would be shocked. Grab some scrap and just start hacking at it bro and see what happens. I'll look into making some this winter as well as a diff guard when I get back to modding my jeep for the next 4 month's I'll be out wheeling it. :) Unless I get bored, whom I kidding I can't go that long without a mod LOL
Kiss and make up. you werent arguing just pointing out the flaws in each others character.
No harm no foul right? Cheeze guys.....
Look at it this way. Field a baseball team. Which player do you want to do without?
None of them. Sal, Chicago has never had a baseball team so you might not get this analogy.
Why isn't analogy the study of anals?
I had to place them in an order of importance, have you ever seen Cyborg with VanDam?
Doesnt make a lot of sense was poorly put together.
So importance, 1) What can i afford first? That is the first one to go on and the easiest.
next-rear diff guard, then the belly guard all in a manner of priorities.
I always make sure to have my very prominent hitch on my jeep. I've got a hitch that is a special drop down model that's adjustable via 3 large pins and the metal bar can hold all the weight of my jeep. I've come down on some rocks that would tear off my rear bumper but because I leave that on there it hits first and slides right off. This has protected my rear bumper from being torn off several times. (always sounds like you just killed the jeep when it lands on that hitch though and you get out and look and not a scratch on the jeep and some little ones on the super thick steel bar that makes up my hitch.
You can see here how it hangs. It's slid out to the second setting so it looks like it's hanging out a ways but i only do this to keep it from rattling while i'm on the road. I slide it in about 2-3 inches to second set of holes and it pushes up under the jeep more. This always hits before my factory slider area that goes around the spare tire area.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...10091841-1.jpg
Works great as a rear bumper as well. If anyone hits that in a not too terrible manner, They'll have a ruined hood/front bumper and i'll feel a nudge.
I still want all other skids though!!! ANyone got some extra money?
Hrm.. with some fab work on that as a starting platform I can see making a decent rear slider. I might have to give that some more serious thought.
You could buy a piece of hitch tubing (the square bit with holes in it) and fab some plates that curve down under the XK for protection.
I like that Idea....where can I get some of that stock?
Quote:
Originally Posted by superacerc
Your local steel yard will have it in lengths without holes in it for cheap. 2" x 2" square tubing.. I'm not sure what the thickness should be, but I'd guess since we are talking about the weight of the commander dropping down on it, 1/4" I don't think there is anything thicker without going to a solid piece of steel. Solid is quite a bit more expensive though. http://www.metalsdepot.com will give you some prices, they are pretty high compared to what I could get locally though even if I didn't have to pay shipping.
1/8 square stock would be good 3/16 would be better. So 10 gauge would be about 1/8 I think, wheres Doc? Anyway those are the two sizes I see in skids the most which in square stock would be even stronger so I don't think you need to go any thicker.