For the lack of a better name, the expeditionportal has a thread call Homebrew.
This is for DIY homemade Jeep modifications.
HomeMade Mods
We should have something like that here.....what do you think???
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For the lack of a better name, the expeditionportal has a thread call Homebrew.
This is for DIY homemade Jeep modifications.
HomeMade Mods
We should have something like that here.....what do you think???
Sounds like a good idea. Just put stuff that is home made in the thread no bolt on stuff is that what you are thinking.
Now look before you guys say anything about it keep in mine it cost me $2.50 so far and thats for the hinges. I grabbed what ever I had laying around the house to put this together and so far I'm thrilled with it. Ok so here are the pics.
Removed the jack and the stock storage box for it.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._4219JPG-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._4217JPG-1.jpg
I decided not to make an actual box for a few reasons. One it would probably cost me money. Second that area is not square and has lots of things in it to build around which meant I would have had to make a much smaller box then the space that is available.
Ok so I have it down to bare bones and now understand what hoaxci5 was talking about with support.
I decided to go with a hinged lid so I fitted a piece of wood to anchor and attach the lid to. I also decided to paint every think black until I figure out what to cover it with.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._4218JPG-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._4220JPG-1.jpg
I got the two pieces connected with hinges and was looking good.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._4221JPG-1.jpg
I had to make some adjustments to make it work
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._4223JPG-1.jpg
Then I decided to add a back to it keep things in place, it's left over laminate wood flooring LOL. It served a second purpose of adding support to the thing as well.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._4226JPG-1.jpg
So this is it fully loaded, When the rear lid closes it butts directly up to the lid sealing the area off.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._4228JPG-1.jpg
Here is a shot of all the stuff I have in it right now. I was able to get rid of my tool box I carried as well :D
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._4230JPG-1.jpg
Put these nuts and washers together so I could mount any thing I wanted using the channel on the rails. 1 bolt 4 washers 2 nuts. Bolt length depends on what you're mounting and how much thread you need sticking out the top.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._4641JPG-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._4642JPG-1.jpg
Here's what I did when I first bought the Jeep.
The 3rd row was wrapped in plastic and hauled out to a shed.
I built a framework from pine. The wedge shaped area holds a floor jack. The lid is plywood with matching (well, a close match) carpet stapled to the lid. I left the original jack storage because other stuff fits there, and it's part of the rear HVAC system. The holes in the 1x6 pine are for the heating vents to flow.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...F3842JPG-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...F3847JPG-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...F3846JPG-1.jpg
I mounted a piece of aluminum angle to the front bumper. The light mount is two pieces bolted back to back to form a Z shape of sorts. I added a piece of 1/16" sheeting cut into about a 1x10" piece to add anti-wobble strength to the angle. The piece is pop-riveted to the angle, and bolted behind the grill. The HID lights mount to the angle piece, and they're pretty solid there.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...F1956JPG-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...F1958JPG-1.jpg
A buddy has a pile of this stuff laying around. It's surgical stainless steel screen that came from Ice Harbor dam. (It was a fish screen) The stuff is next to impossible to cut or drill.
We used large-head pop-rivets (About 7/8" across) to make it part of the rack. Now, anything can be tossed up onto the rack, nothing can fall past the rack's bars to the roof. The floor works fantastic when used with a Thule roof storage bag.
A major side benefit is the SS material reflects the sun, so no heat makes it to the Jeep's roof itself. Open the sunroof to vent mode, and the Jeep stays barely above ambient inside.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...F0187JPG-1.jpg
The same idea could be applied by using expanded mesh, either steel or aluminum.
I bought a cheap interior light from the local-yokal auto parts store. (About $4) I ordered a patch type LED light from eBay, and tossed the original bulb. The light is mounted about in the middle, close to a removable trim piece in the plastic hatch trim. A wire was fished and spliced into the original (and pathetic birthday candle bright) cargo light. The light has its own switch.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...F3913JPG-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...F3914JPG-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...F3916JPG-1.jpg
I upgraded my dome lights to LED's. eBay patch type lights work great, and are cheap. The front ones have one patch each, the center light has a pair of lights. The interior lights up like an open 24/7 Wal-Mart.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...71746541-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...71828071-1.jpg
I made my own mounts for the Surco roof rack. I used 3" aluminum angle. The original mounts (Supplied by Foxwing) are for other racks, and normally point up the opposite direction.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...F1174JPG-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...F1178JPG-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...F1179JPG-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...F1186JPG-1.jpg
Installed a outlet
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._3976JPG-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._3977JPG-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._3979JPG-1.jpg
Ok so got the panel off like most the stuff on the XK it pops off with a little force. Next I decided to use the actual outlet from the inverter it self instead of putting another one in and connecting them some how. So I had to take the inverter apart to accomplish this.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._3981JPG-1.jpg
Then I figured out the wires were not long enough to reach the panel and mount the outlet so I needed to extend them and of course I'm out of wire so to the store I go.
Extended Wiring, The blue wire you see is the wire I added. Not the best solder job but it will hold anyway.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._3982JPG-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._3983JPG-1.jpg
Next I traced out the outlet on the panel and used my dremel to cut the shape out.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._3984JPG-1.jpg
I screwed the outlet into the panel and mounted the inverter with velcro to the panel. This stuff is strong its actually ridiculous to try and pull apart.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._3985JPG-1.jpg
Now the finished product
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._3987JPG-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._3989JPG-1.jpg
I ran the wires up the side of the center counsel tucking all the wires inside the counsel. I left the wires inside my dash for now it got late so I'll tie them in on the next nice day we have. It will have full time power regardless if the jeep is on or not.
Add a roof rack, and your little black button of a satellite antenna will be blocked. Here's the solution.
Buy an antenna from eBay for less than $10. Trust me, they can be had for much less than the $100 everyone claims they cost.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...F5285JPG-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...F5286JPG-1.jpg
Here's where the Satellite receiver lives. Passenger side, under the rear seat.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...F5280JPG-1.jpg
Unplug this yellow connector. The new antenna's sub-SMA will plug right in.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...F5282JPG-1.jpg
Run the tiny cable under the trim to the front door's edge.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...F5290JPG-1.jpg
Sneak the cable up the rubber trim and pop it out somewhere on top.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...F5299JPG-1.jpg
Follow the rubber trim, the cable is very small and it's easy. Update: I moved the little magnet mount antenna farther forward, the Foxwing awning blocked it from the side.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...F5288JPG-1.jpg
So to start... I made this cargo mat out of the bed mat from my pickup truck. The $80+ price tags for the rear cargo liners were just ridiculous!!
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...27171524-1.jpg
Today we took a spin with some friends to get some ice cream... and I needed to use the 3rd row (2 couples and 2 babies). Then I realized, i wanted a better way to using a 3rd row seat than just rolling the mat over like this:
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...27171729-1.jpg
So... I put a cut in it :cool:
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...27172352-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...27172452-1.jpg
I plan on "sealing" up the cut with a glued/sealed velcro strip to keep dirt & debri from falling in the crack.
FYI:
You can purchase a pickup truck bed mat for UNDER $50. My bed mat was enough to make a cargo liner for my XK and my wifes KK!!! So that's two cargo mats for less than the price of one. Oh yea, custom fit btw :cool:
I had to make some new cross rails that were lower profile (so i can park in the garage at work). I used curtain alluminum rails that we use at work. Cut them to length and test fitted them..............
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...ewRails6-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...ewRails5-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...ewRails4-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...ewRails3-1.jpg
Then I sprayed them with undercoating/bed liner stuff and installed them in their resting area..........
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...ewRails2-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...ewRails1-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...NewRails-1.jpg
I gained 1.25"s of lower profile....with the sport bars (including the mounts) it was a total of 4"s high.......with my home-mades it came out to be 2 3/4"s high.
With the basket installed........
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...eBasket4-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...eBasket6-1.jpg
Nice
At least you weren't naked when you took the photo. :) (Like that infamous "eBay teapot" photo)
I like how close the basket sits to the roof.
Thanks guys...
Oh, you dont want to see me naked! LOL...........
For quite a while, I wanted a plug for jumper cables instead of the usual clip here,
clip there, and fight the cables. Here is what i did....
I bought 2 ANDERSON,50A ,CONNECTOR KITS, SB50A, 600V,BLACK, on ebay. I paid less than $8 for the pair.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...nnectors-1.jpg
I soldered the ends of the cables to the battery clamps. I didnt like that
the wire ends were clamped on.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...83252529-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...07/clamp-1.jpg
I put the connectors in the vices
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i.../07/vice-1.jpg
Filled with silver solder
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...1/07/map-1.jpg
I used my map gas torch on these
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...oldering-1.jpg
Side View of Plate
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...84252529-1.jpg
Lifted Plate - you can see where I drilled through to run the cable.
Routed it along side the bumper and attached to an existing harness.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...86252529-1.jpg
Attached copper lugs to cables
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...87252529-1.jpg
Red and Black wire zip tied to wire
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...7/Cables-1.jpg
Back a ways, I added a spring loaded bracket to my front plate.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i.../07/open-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...1/07/top-1.jpg
I used 2 sets of cables to do this.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...07/cable-1.jpg
Nice job! i was planning on doing something similar and having a plug in the front and the rear for running a winch or an OBA compressor.
I don't see it in the pics.... you do have a fuse on the power wire right???
Thanks Matt,
I have not added the fuse yet. I don't think I will. I wouldn't have a fuse on regular cables and
I would need a pretty high amp fuse. I think if something went wrong, I would see it when
I connected to the other battery. I wouldn't mind more input on this....
That's a straight up bad idea... lol sorry, no sugar coating that one. You basically ran a high amperage un-fused line to your front bumper. The slightest fender bender and you're going to (at least) fry the battery or (at worse) fry your entire vehicle.
I would disconnect that line until it's fused properly.
As far as using it as a jumper... you'd basically be charging the stock battery which the starter would draw from. Not sure if the fuse would blow or not.... but honestly i'd rather just pop the hood and hook up a set of jumper cables once in a blue moon as opposed to possibly ruining my vehicle if someone kicks my license plate too hard.
I disagree, but I am going to disconnect until I get other input.
If I am in a fender bender, a number of things can fry the battery.
However: there isn't the protection the battery has and if I rear
end someone and get a spark and a leaking gas tank....
....I will still temporaily disconnect.....
So you're saying there's no a problem with taking a straight positive from the battery and touching it to ground?
Fires don't need to be started with gas. Get plastic (all around the front bumper) hot enough and it will ignite.
Your battery is very well protected by fuses; if you're in an accident and ANYTHING in your vehicle shorts, the fuse will pop before the battery frys or worse. Except for that one line you put in.
Edit: I dont know what the stats are... but i'd bet the majority of vehicle fires are caused by electrical issues (usually someone jumping a fuse or putting in an incorrectly fused circuit)
Matt,
I can see why you are cautious, However the main positive cable from your battery is a similar setup. Unless you have a fuse or circuit breaker at the battery you will always have the risk of the "hot' cable shorting in a crash. If you look at most of the winch setups you will find that very few have an inline fuse in the primary power cable. Here is a picture of mine which uses the same type of connector as Cico.
I did install an inline key switch so that I can disable the line unless I need it. That might allay your fears about a front end collision somewhat.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...07/00115-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...08/00216-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...06/00612-1.jpg
The main positive from the battery is a very short run to the main fuse block and won't short unless you're in a major accident that basically wipes out the engine compartment.
A key switch however is an applicable solution since it basically cuts the line off as close to the battery as possible.
Here is a discussion on the subject from another forum.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/winch-fuse-97485/
Yeah... a switch would be a good idea... as long as the operator remembers to keep it off when not in use. Winch bumpers are also a slightly different application than what was posted. It would take a considerable impact to damage the wires on a winch enclosed in a big steel bumper.
A straight line run to the front center of the front bumper without some sort of fuse or switch is still a very bad idea IMO.
Here is what you need Cico. I am sure you can find it.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...rshutoff-1.jpg
I installed it with quick ties in the area in front of trhe battery and tethered the key to it so I would not lose it. Leave it off all the time when not in use.
I think McMaster has some nicer options too.... i remember ordering one when i was fixing up my dads boat and think i got it from there...
Edit: ok maybe it wasn't mcmaster. Just tried searching and couldn't find it.
Nice write up and mod Don, but I would switch it as well (which you already said you are doing). One of my co-workers was side swiped in the front and the insurance company "totaled" the vehicle because of excess "wire harness" damage. The car can be repaired but it'll take too much $$ the re-wire the engine compartment. So, it doesn't take a huge impact to damage the wiring, just the right hit will do.
I guess that switch is the same as used on a race car, just a battery shut off. Jegs or Summit has them. The threat of a fire starting in a collision is a real possibility. I think its rare, but it can still happen. I have seen a lot of torn up vehicles in 26 years in the collision business, yet I havent seen any in the shop that caught fire. I guess the ones that catch fire usuall burn to the ground and never see a body shop. BMW has a nice idea. A lot of times their battery is located in the trunk. Their main positive line running to the front has a big fusible link in it. If I understand correctly, this link blows with a certain amount of force, possibly blows along with the triggering of an airbag. We replace this harness all the time. Some models are a pain cause the harness is one piece all the way up front, some models its a very short harness that need replacing. I know germans tend to over-engineer a lot but this seems to be a good idea.
FWIW... im not German, but i tend to over engineer everything as well lol
Ok, so I go to Advance Auto and ask for a battery cut off switch. After 2 or 3 minutes typing, the guy says
what are you trying to do? Disconnect the battery so I can shut off power to a terminal.
Oh, you can use a little rocker switch for that......
When I waked into Jegs, the guy said, it is over here...Now i have a power disconnect switch.
Jegg's has the Anderson power disconnects like I used for the connector, $19.99 compared to my ebay price of $8.
I have to admit.... I'm upset with myself for not thinking of a switch earlier. I've installed them in a lot of boats (common failure if cheap ones are used in salt water applications ) but never put one in a vehicle because 30 amps has been enough for any accessories I've installed thus far (haven't designed my winch circuit/harness yet).
Another great idea and helpful discussion, Thanks Guys!
I had to fab up a quick switch panel for my roof/driving/fog lights before ECCC. This is what I came up with.........................
Grabbed some textured 1/8" plastic and cut it the shape of the cubby pocket thing (Technical term). Then I used a heat gun to form it like the front of the cubby. I drilled 4 holes for the mounting screws and test fitted it. Then, i made some back brackets out of some metal I had found. I bent the ends so it grabs the inner lip of the hole. Once I got it to fit the best I can get it, I cut out the switch area and cleaned it up. I first sprayed the panel a light grey I had laying around, but it did'nt match the dash. So, I re-sprayed it black (Ishould of used matte black but all I had was gloss). I installed the switches, wired them up and installed the panel to the dash......I still have to finish wireing the whole set-up but it's done for today...Here's the pics, enjoy.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...hPanel01-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...tchPanel-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...hPanel02-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...hPanel03-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...hPanel06-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...hPanel10-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...hPanel11-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...hPanel13-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...hPanel14-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...hPanel15-1.jpg
If and when I re-do the panel, i will use smaller screws and pay more attention to detail. Also, I want to use different switches. All in all, I think it looks good.