I have a problem!

The air in my wife's 2006 for five hundred stopped working. :( So I figured drop it off get quote and see whats wrong maybe its low on juice or it developed a leak no big deal. Well they call me and of course the compressor is shot go figure. Then his spits out a $1400 repair cost for it WTF! :mad: Now I look them up and rock auto has them for less then 2 bills he says its a $700 part. Any way she also needs new tires which I've been shopping for already that's $600 plus her 90k service is up and there are a couple of things I won't do my self so thats another at least few hundo I'm thinking. So I'm looking at putting $2700 into a car worth about $7000. Just not worth it to me to do that I don't think. How hard can it be to replace the compressor I have never worked on AC before so I have no idea. This has me thinking just get her a new one :( Were looking at a Jetta or Ford Fusion right now. Unless I can reasonably repair this myself I think the wife gets a new car which means I'm still out $3k for down payment. I wish it was an opportunity to get her a JK but the plan was to get her that and she could drive the ford for work she drives a lot so MPG is important. So not sure what in the heck to do. I finally get a fist full of cash again and poof life takes it away LOL oh and my PS3 just died tonight with my disc in to.

$1400 seems kind of steep..... BUT, i've never replaced a compressor on one so im not sure where its located. Hell, I've replaced alternators that were $400-$500 in labor alone because they required dropping the entire subframe of the vehicle. Wonder if its a case like that where they burried the compressor in the bottom rear of the engine and thereby requires a lot of R&R labor?

Ask the tech for a breakdown so we have a better idea of what they're charging.

This don't sound like $700 in labor to me.

Removal & Installation

1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist.
   
2. Recover the refrigerant using approved equipment.
   
3. Remove the 3 A/C compressor pulley shield bolts and the A/C compressor pulley shield (if equipped).
   
4. Remove the drive belt.
   
5. Remove the cooling fan assembly.
   
6. Remove the lower radiator splash shield.
   
7. Remove the lower compressor nut.
   
8. To install, tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
   
9. Completely loosen the lower compressor stud.
   
10. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).
    
11. Completely loosen the lower compressor bolt.
    
12. To install, tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
    
13. Disconnect the A/C pressure transducer electrical connector.
    
14. Disconnect the field coil electrical connector.
    
15. Loosen the compressor manifold bolt and position the compressor manifold aside.
    
16. Discard the O-ring seals.
    
17. To install, tighten to 21 Nm (15 lb-ft).
    
18. Remove the upper compressor nut.
    
19. To install, tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
    
20. Completely loosen the upper compressor stud.
    
21. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).
    
22. Completely loosen the upper compressor bolt.
    
23. Remove the 2 compressor studs and the 2 compressor bolts.
    
24. The A/C compressor must be removed through the opening between the coolant pump and upper radiator support.
    
25. Remove the A/C compressor.

To install:

1. If a new A/C compressor is to be installed, the clutch assembly must be transferred from the old unit to the new unit.
   
2. Install new O-ring seals.
   
3. If filtering of the refrigerant system is not to be carried out, lubricate the refrigerant system with the correct amount of clean PAG oil.
   
4. Install the A/C compressor.
   
5. Install the 2 compressor studs and the 2 compressor bolts and tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm), tighten the studs to 80 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
   
6. Install the upper compressor nut and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
   
7. Discard the O-ring seals.
   
8. Install the compressor manifold and tighten the bolt to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
   
9. Connect the field coil electrical connector.
   
10. Connect the A/C pressure transducer electrical connector.
    
11. Install the lower compressor bolt and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
    
12. Install the lower compressor stud and tighten to 80 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
    
13. Install the lower compressor nut and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
    
14. Install the lower radiator splash shield.
    
15. Install the cooling fan assembly.
    
16. Install the drive belt.
    
17. Install the 3 A/C compressor pulley shield bolts and the A/C compressor pulley shield (if equipped).
    
18. Recharge the refrigerant system using approved equipment.

Get a second opinion on the compressor. The car still uses the Taurus compressor which is a decent design. My experience with them is the orings between the compressor and the lines start to bleed off.

It's easy enough to change (you did get your 4 doors off and back on) but you'd need a professional shop to recharge the system to keep you from over filling it. Plan to do the drier and expansion tube along with new seals and oil.

Yeah dude... based on that $1400 sounds outrageous. Get a 2nd opinion.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Matt_

Yeah dude... based on that $1400 sounds outrageous. Get a 2nd opinion.

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That's what I'm thinking as well. Also everywhere I check the cost of the part out at I don't see it over $300 and that includes the clutch assembly and new O rings and stuff. I know they have to mark there parts up but come on man $500 mark up that's rough bro. I haven't taken a car in for repair in so long I remember why now.

Geebus Sal - Thats ridiculous.... Just charge the AC in the XJ, let her drive the XK for a little - lol.

No - I wouldn't know where to start - If your're still trying to figure it out by the team I come rolling through Central and Western NC - I can give ya a hand.

I had an independent shop give me the 1200 dance once, compressor was shot...so he said...
i went to the jeep dealer.
dealer said he thought it was the switch, which was only about 300. so new switch made it all better.

get a second opinion. a lot of the cost is labor, pumping down the old and disposing of the coolant, then the recharge.
well, leaks happen......1 down. used parts and self install...2 down.... find an hvac friend and let him recharge it.
all done.

I was quoted $1,300 to fix the A/C in the wifes P.T. Loser and took it to my local garage mechanic who then fixed it for $60.00 (the shop said compressor, the mechanic replaced a hose that had a hole in it).

The wife can't drive the XK the gas would break me for sure. I have a mechanic I used a couple of times years ago he fixed the AC on my mustang for $15. So I'm going to drive out to him its a little ways to get to him but worth it I guess and if he says its the compressor I'm considering doing it my self maybe depending on what his quote is.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tymac

Get a second opinion on the compressor. The car still uses the Taurus compressor which is a decent design. My experience with them is the orings between the compressor and the lines start to bleed off.

It's easy enough to change (you did get your 4 doors off and back on) but you'd need a professional shop to recharge the system to keep you from over filling it. Plan to do the drier and expansion tube along with new seals and oil.

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The O rings would be an easy fix from what I can tell. Do you or anyone know the test procedures to call a compressor bad.

First sign that it would be compressor related is having a full system charge.... that rules out a leak and you'd look at the control system to see if the compressor is being activated properly.

Or, if there was a leak it may actually be coming out of the compressor. Problem here is, have you had it stop working before? Normally you can't find the leak so you have to recharge the system and put some dye in there then wait for it to leak out.

So there's quite a few things it could be... hard to tell what's going on without knowing what the tech did to diagnose the compressor. ... also, if the system was still holding charge, I hope he refilled it.....

They called said he found a cheaper compressor dropped the price to $1k LOL. I'm being charged $70 for the Freon they put in it so I'm guessing it has a full charge now. I'm going to go get it bring it home and sit on it for awhile and run some tests my self. My wife don't want to stick money into it and she doesn't want to spend the down payment on a new car either so not sure where that leaves me. I can get a new compressor the vacuum pump and Freon and oil for less the $400.

When you pick it up be very polite about it. Tell him you don't have the money right now and will have to wait a week or two. Then ask him to run down what he actually found. Was it leaking from the compressor? Did he put dye in it, let it run and see where it leaked out? (Fyi if he did this, you can get a black light and some amber glasses and find the leak yourself *wink wink)

The more info, the better. :)

Ya no doubt the wife is getting ready now so we can go get it. The guy was actually cool and knda agreed it was a lot of money to spend and understood. I told him I didn't have it and wasn't sure if I did the car was worth the cost.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Matt_

When you pick it up be very polite about it. Tell him you don't have the money right now and will have to wait a week or two. Then ask him to run down what he actually found. Was it leaking from the compressor? Did he put dye in it, let it run and see where it leaked out? (Fyi if he did this, you can get a black light and some amber glasses and find the leak yourself *wink wink)

The more info, the better. :)

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The dye is what we used to find my leak and save me over $1,200.

Your local A/C guy can do that test for you and might not even charge you for it.

OK just got back here is the skinny. No leak the AC was holding a full charge when I brought it in. Symptoms AC works sometimes but going out more frequently. The high side pressure was right on were it needed to be the low side pressure was 30LBS (or PSI can't remember ) higher then it was suppose to be. He said that meant it wasn't sucking anything. So now what, been reading there are two $40 parts that keep popping up in my research. The problem is I need to pay for a recharge $100 each time I think I have it fixed.

They can remove and reuse your collant, this should save you on the cost!

If the guy was cool about it, ask him what he'd charge to drain the freon, give you the car back, and then recharge the system after you replace the compressor.

On one hand you may think that like pulling a quick one... but its easy money for him especially if the other option is not getting any work out of the deal. Your risk here is that if you screw up a seal and it leaks, you'll be paying for another recharge (if you go this route, ask for dye when you get it recharged).

Then replace the compressor yourself and you're good to go.

Ok here we go I missed this or didn't hear what she was saying or what ever been very busy LOL. At idle it blows hot air. At 1500 RPM blows semi cool air at 2000 RPM's it blows ice cold air I confirmed this. I have read several threads and blogs and stuff describing this exact same issue for there ford 500's . Here is the part they are saying solved there issue http://www.techchoiceparts.com/showitem.aspx?id=116597 My concern is if I just let all the Freon escape into thin air ( EPA :() will that cause any issue with the system? I figure either way I'm out $100 bucks for the recharge. I'm still going to call and get a price on a evap to recharge a empty system its $100