Strut Spacer Install

I threw on my 1/4" thick (1/2" lift) strut spacers on today.

NOTE: I installed these spacers on top of my RC spacer lift as a TEMPORARY solution to a sagging front end caused by added weight from accessories. I do not condone running extra spacers, especially without limiting straps. IF you do this, make sure you have plenty of slack in your ABS and brake lines at full suspension drop or you will break them.

All of the pictures can be found HERE

It's a horribly rainy day here... so I did this install one side at a time and only needed a floor jack and 1 jack stand.

First things first, while both tires are on the ground, remove the sway bar bolts:

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...23114215-1.jpg

One of the most annoying parts of this job is getting to the driver side nuts... take a bit of patience:

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...23115110-1.jpg

Then use the jack to lift the front end via the LCA, place a jack stand under the body, remove the tire, and let the suspension drop:

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...23115340-1.jpg

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...23115539-1.jpg


Make sure you disconnect the ABS lines from their holsters and take the caliper off. I chained the caliper to the LCA mount.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...23121019-1.jpg

Support the LCA with a floor jack and remove the strut mounting nuts.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...23115811-1.jpg

With the LCA still suppored with the floor jack so that the knuckle is not hitting the strut, remove the ball joint nut. Quick tip, COMPLETELY remove the nut, this cleans the threads. THEN reinstall the nut just a few turns, and hit the flat spot of the knuckle with a hammer (dont be shy).

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...23120345-1.jpg

Then just use a pry bar to take the load off the nut, take the nut off, and the UCA will rise up out of the way.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...23120453-1.jpg

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...23120552-1.jpg

Then let the LCA Drop.

FOR THOSE WITH SPACERS: Yup... you still have a lot of work to do...

FOR THOSE WITH STOCK VEHICLES: At this time, you can try to put the spacer on the strut. If theres a second person helping you they may be able to push down on the spindle to get enough clearance to put the plate on, then just jack the suspension back up in place, then put everything back together. If you're doing this by yourself you may need to try spring compressors as shown below to get adequate clearance with minimal exertion (updated after installing spacers on Sean's vehicle in Maryland)

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...23122528-1.jpg

For us guys with spacers, or doing this solo on stock or OME suspensions ... you'll need to install some spring compressors. I put the compressors on with the suspension at full drop, then use the floor jack on the LCA to compress the suspension incrementally as i tighten the spring compressors. This makes it 1000% easier since you can simply tighten them by hand since the floor jack is using the vehicle weight to compress the spring. Once all of the weight is taken up, then use a wrench to tighten the spring compressors a few extra turns.

Then you can drop the suspension back down. If you have 2" spacers already installed like me you'll probably have the same issue i had, even with my axle nut removed the studs were not clear of the body, so i could not get the spacer in. So I had to remove the lower fork bolt. NOTE!!! Do NOT remove the lower fork bolt if there is not some clearance between the top of the strut mount and the unibody!! Remember, you will need to get that bolt to line back up. If there is not ~1/4" of clearance, then tighten the spring compressors up some more!!..... obviously you dont need to remove the lower fork bolt if you can get the spacers in, so make sure you try first.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...23130905-1.jpg

It was easy at that point... install the spacer:

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...23130854-1.jpg

Here's an important step. Snug up all of the strut mount nuts. This will raise the strut assembly up as far as possible. With this done, and because I made sure there was almost 1/4" of clearance before removing the fork bolt, I was able to line up the lower fork bolt with relative ease. With body weight and a pry bar it's easy to flex things into place (and im a measly 170 lbs). Also, i coated that bolt with a ton of antisieze!

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...23131417-1.jpg

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...23131507-1.jpg

At that point... you're ready for putting everything back together.

I'm not going to give you a reverse step-by-step. If you're doing this job, you should be able to figure that out!!

A few tips:

1) Do your FINAL torque on the strut bolts after you put the vehicle weight back on it.

2) Use a pry bar to push down on the UCA while you're tightening the ball joint nut... this will prevent it from spinning.

3) Quadruple check all of your bolts... make sure you tightened everything up!

4) Primarily for those with lift spacers installed, make sure no lines are stretching at full drop.

5) As always, have your alignment checked after driving it around for a day or so. The toe will need to be adjusted.

Here are some angle pics:

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...23145851-1.jpg

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...23145900-1.jpg

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...23145910-1.jpg

And a BEFORE/AFTER:

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...19123707-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...23151016-1.jpg

^^ yeah... it's actually hard to tell the difference in those pics. But standing next to it in the garage it was a night/day difference

Keep me in mind for those when you slap the new stuff on. Even more interested now that I have a job

Will do. But i probably won't know before the 8th. If i even have the OME on by then i'll want to drive around for a while to see how those springs settle before getting rid of the spacer.

Awesome write up. I'll be doing this tomorrow.

Matt I completely understand. When you are good and ready..if you decide to sell...Leave me on your short list.

Did mine last night thanks to the handy write up. Took about 2 hours (and i recoated a squeaky brake with brake grease while i had the caliper off). Since i have longer springs (OME) I ended up removing the entire strut. I didn't use any spring compressors.

As far as removing stuff in the engine bay: (4.7L) The passenger side you have to take a bolt off the coolant resevoir (right next to engine) and a little screw on paper thin nut right next to breather side then it will slide toward the engine and pull it up and out of the way. I didn't remove any coolant lines. I just twisted it around and sat it down on the front of the engine. This allowed quick access to the 4 strut top bolts.

The driver's side is more intimidating but not hard. The two fuse boxes just have tabs on them that you can use a flat head screwdriver to push in and pull up the fuse box. I didn't unhook any wires or anything, just twisted them up and out of the way. The plate that they mount to has 3 small nuts holding it on. I also didn't remove this cover just pushed it up while i accessed the 4 strut top bolts. It was slightly inconvienent but easy enough.

Hope that can clarify the engine removal stuff for future DIYers

good info... I guess I jumped over a few steps in my write up.

For installing the spacer with the OME, were you unable to slide the spacer in there with the suspension fully dropped? (so you removed the lower fork bolt as well)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Matt

good info... I guess I jumped over a few steps in my write up.

For installing the spacer with the OME, were you unable to slide the spacer in there with the suspension fully dropped? (so you removed the lower fork bolt as well)

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Exactly. The top of the bolts wouldn't come down far enough to put in the spacer. On the bright side now know how to remove my entire struts should I ever buy new ones.

Had my alignment today and as stated the toe needed adjustment. The shop informed me that that's actually the only adjustment you can make on the commander for alignments. Interesting.

The shop lied... you adjust the Camber/Caster via the lower control arm mount. But it takes a bit more work. It's kind of sad how common it is for people to say that alignment shops say there aren't camber/caster adjustments; either the tech is lazy and lying, or just negligent... either case sucks.

Thanks for the info. Hope mine is alright then since they say it can't be adjusted.

did they give you a printout?

anyone running ~2" of lift should have the LCA mount set as outboard as possible.

..... when they said "it can't be adjusted" did they mean "the adjustment is maxed out and can't go any further" or were they telling you "there aren't any camber/caster adjustments for this vehicle"? if they maxed out the adjustment to get it as close as possible, you're good. But if they didn't adjust anything and didn't give you a printout with the readings, I'd go back.... and if the camber is out of spec tell them to adjust the LCA like they're supposed to.

They did give me a printout. I'll have to go look at it. From my understanding of what he told me it sounded more like "hey man there's only one adjustment on this vehicle, it's really easy cause we can't adjust anything else". My printout better say it's right or i'll be back this afternoon.

post up a scan of your printout and a picture of the lower control arm mounts so we can see where they're positioned.

here's a picture of my driver side LCA adjustment. Notice how you can tell where it was before I aligned it.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...26092316-1.jpg

They didn't actually give me a printout. They just gave me a large paper receipt and stuck it in a fancy envelope. It does state that i have a 3 month warranty/guarantee with the service though. I'd like to go back i think. Here's a picture of my LCA bolts: Looks like the passenger side is all the way inboard and the driver is in the middle.
Driver side looking from behind the tire:
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...df8c37c3-1.jpg

Passenger side from in front of the tire:
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...b94e98c5-1.jpg

Passenger side closer look:
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...8c4079e1-1.jpg

I would definitely go back and have them check the alignment again. If its out, that's how they adjust it.

I just called and they save the adjustments made and are going to try and email me the info. They are also going to call tomorrow when their tech that did my jeep is in (he's off today). They said that if i need to just come back and they'll make sure it's correct. Seems like a pretty reputable place with a friendly staff.
The manager is the one that told me they can only adjust one aspect not the tech. I may be ok.

That said they are definitely not out all the way like yours. What's the reason they should be out all the way with lifted vehicles?

Normally when lifting a vehicle like this (2+ inches without compensating for angles) its difficult to keep the camber/caster within factory specs because the adjustments arent designed to change that much.

Its possible that yours are within spec and the service manager misunderstood. He may have also peaked under there and didnt see any adjustment cams on the control arm and just assumed it wasn't adjustable. So it could all be a miscommunication issue.

let us know how it turns out!

I talked to the alignment mechanic today. He said he did know that you can mess with the bolts on the bottom but said something to the effect of it's difficult to get it right and be precise. He said that the driver side was within factory tolerance and the passenger side was right on the edge of factory tolerance. Also said that it's easiest to buy aftermarket cam bolts for the UCA and do it but that if i wanted to get it closer that he'll try adjusting the LCA bolts anytime and to just come back whenever. I'll be busy this weekend cause my dad is bring the truck from GA tomorrow and we're going to be doing some MX riding while he's here. I'll probably take it down there monday or tuesday.

It is difficult to be precise and its a PITA because you need to lift the front of the vehicle, adjust the LCA, lower the vehicle, reset the sensors and do a caster sweep (process of turning the wheel left/right to get the readings). That said, I'm surprised you're within factory specs given the location of your mounts.

Thanks for the advice. I'll let him know if he doesn't know already exactly what to do. I wonder how much the aftermarket adjustable bolts would be for the UCA. Might just be nice to put em on. He said that the design that our commander has is also common to a few other jeeps and heavy duty trucks(2500, f250, etc...) as well. He also said that if i were willing to buy the aftermarket cam bolts for the UCA he'd put them in for free and realign it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by superacerc

Thanks for the advice. I'll let him know if he doesn't know already exactly what to do. I wonder how much the aftermarket adjustable bolts would be for the UCA. Might just be nice to put em on. He said that the design that our commander has is also common to a few other jeeps and heavy duty trucks(2500, f250, etc...) as well. He also said that if i were willing to buy the aftermarket cam bolts for the UCA he'd put them in for free and realign it.

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Sounds like he's a competent guy and knows what needs to be done.

I've considered getting the aftermarket cam bolts.... was going to see how my alignment looked after installing JBA arms and decide if I need them

Eibach Cam Bolts

Those are pretty expensive. I think for now we'll just do it the hard way.

lol Exactly!!