hello,
just wondering if anyone has this installed this on their xk? i was thinking of getting this to get the front end to level out the front end. was it hard to put on yourself? i think its pretty much the same as the revtek one isn't it?
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hello,
just wondering if anyone has this installed this on their xk? i was thinking of getting this to get the front end to level out the front end. was it hard to put on yourself? i think its pretty much the same as the revtek one isn't it?
they are both spacers front and rear and it does level out the XK. There pretty straight forward to install if you know what your doing. Everyone recommends getting a spring compressor if you can I would try renting one or getting it from the parts store. There are tons of pics of the 2" spacer lift so you know what the XK will look like after click on my garage link or almost anyones garage link to see the results.
Most people can DIY if you are the least bit mechanical but I do suggest you have a friend or two stop by to help and it will go much faster. You need basic tools and although I did not use the spring spacer I hear it is eaisier with one and your parts store will most likely have one as part of their tool loaner program.
I just installed this kit tonight. I was lucky enough to have a friend with a lift in his garage !;)Attachment 337
well im finally tackling this. again... 1st time, my jeep attacked me and took half my pinky nail off!! as with all my jeeps... they have all left a memorable mark! but well worth? i guess...
so... ive followed the directions on the manual that came with the lift. i also found a youtube video of the lift being installed on a wk. but...
i can't seem to get the bolts out at the bottom of the ?strut? (that fork end) the bolt in the front has a metal piece bent to help the bolt from loosening up i assume? i bent it back to get the bolt to turn? and still nothing?
i still have yet to use the drill for my compressor? so im assuming that would get the job done?
i was just wondering if anyone had a hard time getting those bolts out during their install?
also, i read that the rear was a tough to do as well? i do have spring compressors so i would think it shouldn't be too hard right? also, i was wondering if everyone put the rear sway bars back in? i took them off the front end. thinking it wouldn't hurt much taking those off as well? i had the front sway bars off the tj and wj that i had before this and i never had a problem?
pretty much i am stuck on getting the bolts off the front front struts to get them off...
any tips would greatly be appreciated.... thanks...
i'll be working on this 1st thing in the morning... i have a few days off of work so im hoping i can get this on...
The front swaybar will have to go back on for safety on the street. I test drove mine with it off and it will dip the front end and grab when turning at any speed and act as if it would flip easily. The rear can be left off and actually improves the ride IMO. All the bolts get a bit tough to deal with after a bit of use. They will come off. Spray them down with some wd40/breakfree and give it a try with that impact drill if you can. also the larger the socket wrench (I.e. Longer handled)the more leverage you will have. Bigger is better right?
Good Luck
A lot of people have had trouble getting these bolts off. Once you get the nut off the back, the
bolt sticks to the grommet. spay with wd 40, PB, and bang on it. Then get your torch to heat the bolt and wack it.
Just did mine and we had to use a PB and a impact gun on it. Once it spun loose just tapped it a few times and it came out.. I put both swaybars back on,I might take the rear one off though..
The spring compressor definitely made the job easier for both ends. The problem we had with the back is the rear arm on the DS hit the gas tank skid making it hard to get the axle low enough to install the spring.. I also just installed the 4xguard Matrix W/grill hoop. Easy install and makes the XK stand tougher !!
Just put mine on yesterday. I didnt have a 24mm socket so I just muscled the lower strut bolt off with a crescent wrench. The drivers side seemed to give me more trouble than the passenger on both ends. Driver front took me about 90 minutes. Right side took maybe 15. In the rear, I had a hard time getting the coil to clear going back in because of the upper control arm hitting the gas tank skid plate. I ended up really cinching the coil with compressors and took the bump stop loose, put it inside the coil and pressed it in place once the coil was in. Again, about 45 minutes on driver's side and 10 minutes on the right.
Congrats with your install !! I had the same problem with the rear. I was going to cut the tank skid to get a little bit more articulation back there,but the stock shocks would have stopped it anyways..Quote:
Originally Posted by XK N00b
Frank
I think p@55word cut a grove in his hanger so it would fit. I just raised the back up high enough to clear it and set the back end
down and bolted it back on. I have not see a problem with it.
I just ordered the rc 2 inch lift. Does anyone have the instructions scanned to pdf for the install. I saw a link to a youtube but it's been taken off youtube.
I would like to read up on the installation before the kit gets here. Thanks for any info.
I also just ordered the duratrac 245 75 17's from dt.
You can download them from the website: http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_commander_2.html
copy of my post on the other forum....
Help, I drove to the casino last night, 250 miles round trip. I have not had the alignment done yet, appointment only with the dealer for that.
There is a problem.
The front is much higher than others I have seen on the forum except one who others commented on saying "thats higher than mine". It seems the front lifts are taller than the older ones. The strut fork connecting to the lower swing arm connects several inches in from the tire. The tire mounted at the end of the swing arm is lifted
a bit higher than the size of the steel puck.
This is causing dangerious bump steer. I have lifted fsj's before, cherokee chiefs and j10's and knew better but did not look at the tie rods after installation. After the trip to the boat and back last night. I checked them. Two large potholes on the interstate running 74mph changed a quarter lane then corrected it'self. Not a good speed to learn this problem. Especially at 3am. We did win a bit though
The other issue, vibration, could be the need for the alignment but I doubt it. I carried my 245 75 17's to walmart. the busiest one of about 5 to choose from. They would not change them unless I had the tpms sensors "repacked", 3 dollars and some change per tire. I told them that was fine. They put some large wheel weights on, could just need high speed balanced from say, sears or the dealer.
But I have been a long time user of bfg ko's an inch shorter but also in rim, around the same amound of rubber on my 5.9. 245 75 16's. I get 50 to 70k out of them and never have a rebalance or rotate and the bfg's will hide suspension problems and drive like a dream, no vibration while say, a wheel bearing is completely shot and/or the alignment is seriously out due to a crash.
so, hard to imagine this vibration is an issue with the alignment on my commander.
did I just speed 836$ on a set of rough riding mudders? I wanted the bfg's. My wife wanted the cool looking tire.
As far as the bump steer, which tie rod end extender should I get? Looks like about a 3 inch lift this 2 inch rough country kit has put on the front.
Getting ready to order a new set of bfg's for my 5.9. the ones on it are now shot, dry rotted due to age and nearly bald yet still cruise 80mph smooth as glass. The left front is worn uneven since I drove it with several bad wheel bearings for many miles to I finally broke down and quit buying the junk from the autoparts store, yes, I tried the tempkin, lasted a month more than the others. I finally got mopar and it's back to new.
Thanks for any info.
edit, forgot to mention, I have 55k on the jeep. Hardly got dirty doing the lift install, like working on a brand new car. Everything is tight.
The alignment will fix your issues. You don't need tie rod extenders either.
Your issue with bump steer is due to the toe-in condition.
Get an alignment and you're set.
Good deal, thanks for the info.
The dealer did the alignment, still a vibration but no more bump steer. Took it to big o, they could not high speed balance, missing a cone for the balance machine. Another appt at the dealer, a high speed balance and it's smooth through the entire mph range. Well, ran up to 100 on a limited access highway.
Very pleased with the lift and tires.
The dealer apparently did not understand programming the tire size or moving the tpms to 25psi alarm. Odd since the same dealer did 24 updates on the computer a few weeks ago.
The dealer only has a few tire sizes to choose from. So you need your own programmer for the larger tires we run.
I'll get her talked into it.. just a matter of time lol. thanks. I have the link saved. Looks like 349 plus another 40 for the tpms enable on the programmer.
not sure if im posting in the right spot but im new to the forum. i have a 2010 jeep commander and just ordered the 2" rough country lift kit #664 hoping it will fit. i was skeptical about ordereing it because their site says it fits 2006-2008 commanders. i called today and talked to someone up there and he sounded unsure but told me that kit part # 664 would not fit my 2010 commander manufacture date says 10/09 on the door. he said that it only fit 2006-2009?? all the other sites on google show all different dates even 2005-2009. HELP!!
There were no changes 2005-2010 in that area and very few changes at all actually so yes it will fit you're good man.
awesome thanks for the quick response