Possible Looming Transmission Issues??

Do you think I may have some possible looming transmission issues or something else going on here? Here's a synopsis of the past few days. I left our farm in Cairo, GA hauling an empty enclosed trailer (probably 14'x8' double axle) back to Raleigh, NC with me, approximately 600 miles to go.

This was on Sunday.

First 150 miles is mostly US Hwy at 65 MPH speed limit. I'm running 60-65 and it won't hold 5th gear. I can induce a shift from 4th to 5th, but any of the absolute slightest tap on the gas shifts it back to 4th. So it's mostly running in 4th at 60-65 (25-2800 ish RPMs) and the torque converter is constantly locking and unlocking.

The middle 300 miles is 2 lane highway at 55-60 MPH and interstate at about 65. Now the Jeep decides it can run in and hold 5th gear, even up mild hills. Steeper or longer hills required shifts down to 4th. The torque converter seemed to lock in 5th and didn't cycle like it was before.

Last 150 miles is 2 and 4 lane highway at 55-65. It's running the same as the first 150 miles. Constant unlocking and locking of the torque converter and won't hold 5th at all. I decided to take a video of the torque converter action this time, see below.

Fast forward through Monday to this morning (Tuesday). I'm on my short 3 mile drive to work, slowing down as I'm approaching traffic that's getting rolling. I ease back onto the accelerator while around 30-ish MPH and it SLAMS into gear (I think it went into 4th as the RPMs stayed down around 11-1200. I've had it shift pretty hard before when going into the higher gears at low speeds, but never that hard. Next turn I'm sitting waiting for a clear spot to make a left turn. As I accelerate and turn, I get a grinding-like sound, and a little hesitation that felt like a slip. The grinding-like sound I have no idea.

What says you experts? Have it serviced and see what happens? Fluid was changed (just flushed as far as I know) about 20k ago. That would've been around 75k and I'm at 97k now. It may be a little low. I checked at my last oil change last week and it was at the bottom of the stick. It's been over 1000 miles since that oil change already, nearly half of it towing.

Need to sort this out by Thursday because I'll be starting the move hauling this loaded trailer back and forth between Raleigh and North Augusta.

Here's the torque converter video

http://youtu.be/l1ct8G0oQu4

Were you in tow/haul mode?

I cant remember. .. what size tires are you running? Is it properly tuned for the tire size?

Do you have the trans tuned with the flashpaq?

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Originally Posted by Matt

Were you in tow/haul mode?

I cant remember. .. what size tires are you running? Is it properly tuned for the tire size?

Do you have the trans tuned with the flashpaq?

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Yes, in tow/haul the whole trip pulling the trailer from GA to NC. Not in tow/haul this morning on the way to work and not towing anything.

Tire size is 265/70/17 and adjusted with the flashpaq. Checked the speedo against a GPS and was within 1-2 at 75 MPH.

No the trans is not tuned. Only thing I have used the flashpaq for is adjusting the tire size. I've had far too many problems with it to trust it to do anything else besides tire size.

When my Tranny died a couple years ago my symptoms were similar. I would be going into a turn at about 15, then go to accelerate and BAM it would slam into gear. Finally my Transmission died in traffic when there was a slow down and then a speed up. Did a normal/hard accelerate and BAM. Only had 2nd gear. Took it to the shop and I had to have my entire tranny replaced. I would get it serviced asap.

The torque converter has me interested though. Mine will do similar actions as the video shows while cruising at 30ish under load (usually up hill)

I do not have Superchips though

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Originally Posted by BonesWK

When my Tranny died a couple years ago my symptoms were similar.

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F'ing great. I don't have money to move to Augusta and fix/replace a tranny. If it craps right now I'm either completely SOL or in debt.

I was in the same boat dude. It sucks.

Get it serviced and drop the 100 bucks to make sure its got fresh parts and fluid. NEVER HAVE IT FLUSHED. Take it to an actual transmission shop to have it done right. I never did this step so it may save you.

I had to drop 800 bucks on a used transmission I was so strapped at the time man, it happens and it all works out.

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Originally Posted by BonesWK

Get it serviced and drop the 100 bucks to make sure its got fresh parts and fluid.

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Yeah it's going in at 9 tomorrow morning. I've talked with the guy who runs the shop before about tranny service and he said they do a full service drop the pan and change filters. I've had some good interaction with this guy and shop, but unfortunately only found out about them immediately after the tranny fluid was flushed before. Pretty sure he knows my Jeep well. It's been there 3-4 times in the last 10k miles. Classic Jeep product for you, helping you make relationships with shop owners/operators.


EDIT: It hasn't thrown any lights, but I'll have to plug in the superchips to see what codes are in there. I know my service 4wd codes are back already.

I checked the fluid after work and it was low. I added a quart of fluid and a pint of seafoam trans tune since it's still going in tomorrow morning for new filters and fluid. That's the safe play with over 1500 miles of towing coming up in the next month.

Surely I've lost some lifespan with however long it's been low on fluid :mad:

Check your trans cooling lines and see if you're leaking, we all have been and are plagued by those lines. Other than that you shouldnt be down any fluid unless the right amount wasnt put in last change.

I'll check the lines after work. I did notice during my oil change 2 weeks ago that there seemed to be more than usual amounts of fluids/grease/crap on the bottom of the transmission pan.

Guy at the shop seems to think from my description that it's a solenoid problem and needs to go to a tranny shop. He said the service could just be waste of money. I elected to do the service anyways because I don't have the time to leave it with a tranny shop before I start the move. Better off to have new filters and fluid than to do nothing. Tomorrow I'll be making the first trip hauling a trailer down to Augusta.

I'm also going to replace the TPS. Some people over on Jeep Forum seemed to suggest that it could cause symptoms similar to that.

I think theres a calibration sequence you can do for the TPS. I wouldn't go throwing parts at it, especially for a system like ours that'll throw a DTC if throttle position doesn't match pedal position.

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Originally Posted by Matt

I think theres a calibration sequence you can do for the TPS. I wouldn't go throwing parts at it, especially for a system like ours that'll throw a DTC if throttle position doesn't match pedal position.

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Yeah, really not trying to take the throw parts at it overall approach. But for a cheap $35 part I think it's worth a shot to throw this one at it.

I hear ya. Might as well disconnect the battery and leave the key on for 5+ minutes too.... reset the modules etc.

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Originally Posted by Matt

I think theres a calibration sequence you can do for the TPS. I wouldn't go throwing parts at it, especially for a system like ours that'll throw a DTC if throttle position doesn't match pedal position.

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Matt. I was having a crazy idling issue last march and was told to replace the Throttle Position Sensor. I replaced the TPS and haven't had any issues since. I got the part for cheap and only took a few minutes to replace it. I didn't get any codes or anything from the bad TPS so I think it's worth a try for him to replace it since it's very inexpensive. It wouldn't hurt to eliminate the TPS as being the problem. I have the same year and engine XK as he does

Idling issues without a DTC are a lot more likely than torque converter locking issues without a DTC caused by the TPS since the PCM is constantly monitoring pedal position vs throttle position while driving (so a hunting TPS without pedal movement would/should throw a code)

I was just saying it might be worth trying a calibration first since that might cause the issue without a DTC and not cost any money.

But yeah, for $35 kill two birds with one stone.... disconnect the battery and install a new sensor; Itll be a new part and automatically calibrate.

Trouble is the time constraints for me here. So if any of this fixes it, I'm not going to know which one did it, battery disconnect/reset, TPS, trans tune and fluid/filter change...

Lol as long as its fixed afterwards it doesn't matter, right? Fluid filter/change counts as preventative maintenance anyway :)

^ what he said.

To me it won't matter what in the heck fixes it, as long as it's done! Just won't be of much help to anybody who has a similar problem in the future.

It is preventative maintenance. His though on the service though was it's money wasted if I end up taking it to a tranny shop real soon and they have to tear it down to inspect.