Fuel Tank Skid Install

First thing I did was make sure I ran the gas down as far as I could without getting stranded. The fuel light came on so that should of gave me 4 gallons left so I pushed it a little farther and figured I was down to 3 gallons and I could handle that. Second, run to the auto parts store and pick up some plastic clips for the quick connect plugs for the fuel lines. Regardless if you have the tool to disconnect these properly or not its a good idea I broke one and one was to old and wouldn't clip up correctly so I replaced two of these this is what I used. Yes it says ford/GM on it but it's an exact replacement for ours go figure.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...to201JPG-1.jpg
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...to202JPG-1.jpg

Ok now on to the fuel tank.

1. Don't put the bracket the on that comes with the fuel tank leave it off. It's the only bracket not welded to the skid. You will see why when you drop the fuel tank.

1A. Disconnect the battery, if the fuel system gets power while your doing this not good.
Also make sure you're well ventilated, between the fuel and chemicals (brake clean) to clean the parts the fumes can get bad. It's a good idea if you still have one mounted to drop your spare tire. Way easier with that out of the way.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._4443JPG-1.jpg

2. Release the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. On the passenger side of the rail you will see the plastic cap looks like the ones on your air stem for tires.
2A. 5.7L bleed the fuel line pressure for the Hemi by pulling the fuel pump fuse and running the lines dry.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._4427JPG-1.jpg

I just stuck my finger nail in there like letting air out of a tire and the fuel squirted out. Just a little comes out the pressure is not much.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._4428JPG-1.jpg

2. I went and loosened all the bolts first to make sure they would break free. No need messing with plastic clips and your rig if any of the bolts are stuck. I don't have any rust so I was good no problems, but if you live up north you might want to hit the bolts with some type of penetrating spray at least the night before.

This is the hardest bolt to get to but as you can see you can get ratchet in there to get to the bolt. You will have to take you tool off before the bolt is all the way out it gets wedged on the drive shaft so finish by hand.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._4434JPG-1.jpg

Passenger side rear bolt just use a long extension and you can use your impact to knock this one out.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._4437JPG-1.jpg

3. Time disconnect some fuel lines. But first disconnect this bracket in the rear by the spare tire so you have some play in the rear lines. Now clean all the connections so no dirt gets in your fuel lines. I used brake clean to do mine.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._4440JPG-1.jpg

4 Disconnect these two lines in the rear of the fuel tank
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._4441JPG-1.jpg
I left this one connected here
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...0line201-1.jpg
Because I disconnected the other end here before you drop the tank.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...0line202-1.jpg

4A. Just to the right of the fuel lines in the rear is a plug that needs to be unplugged. You can see the two holes it came from it just pules right out of there. There is a red clip you need to remove and the plug will come apart.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._4463JPG-1.jpg

5. Feel the top of the tank and remove the two lines from the clips. They just pull right out of there.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...e20clips-1.jpg

6. Disconnect the two lines in the front of the fuel tank. The one of the right in the picture has an extra red clip that needs to be removed and is also the line that will leak on you.

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...e20front-1.jpg

7. Now the bracket I told you not to put on needs to come off the old skid first before you try dropping it. This will make it much easier to wiggle the thing out. Now that you have it all disconnected you can take out the bolts and drop the tank. If you don't have help you can use a floor jack to help you do this. I just dropped the tank on top of me and then put it down my jack was to small and I was doing this solo. Thats it reverse the process and torque the bolts to 80 foot pounds and you're good. Putting the tank in solo was a PITA. I used my jack to get one end in the air then lifted the other up and put two these two bolts in her first.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._4439JPG-1.jpg
With the passenger side brackets resting on the drive shaft and these two bolts in the fuel tank wasn't going anywhere. Then some pushing and lifting and sweating to get the other bolts in. Don't forget to put the bracket on I told you to leave off its the last one I put on.

8. Reconnect your battery and turn the key to on. The fuel system will pressure up look for leaks. Then turn the jeep on and once again check for leaks. No leaks then you're done.

Ok problems with this to avoid.

1. Have spare fuel disconnect clips on you. I had to send the wife to get mine because I had some beers while doing the install and could not drive.
3. Have a jack or something that can hold the tank up. A trans jack or motorcycle jack or something.
4. lots of ventilation, between gas and brake clean (beer) even with the garage open I got a little sick
5. Have a few extensions and a universal, then you can use your impact for almost all the bolts.
6. Get a second pare of hands as a solo job it was hard.
7. Be prepared for the tank to be stuck in the old skid. Mine had dirt compacted around it holding it in.

I think thats it not a bad install but could of used some help which would of made this an easier install.

I didn't know about the fuel tank needing to notched out until after I was done so I did months afterwards. Don't forget to file down all the edges after you're done.
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._5690JPG-1.jpg

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._5692JPG-1.jpg

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._5693JPG-1.jpg


This is the piece that I cut out
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i..._5691JPG-1.jpg

Nice job Sal! Excellent job of documenting the install.

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Originally Posted by cico7

Nice job Sal! Excellent job of documenting the install.

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Thanks bro I appreciate it.

Good info man.

Was the driveshaft in your way at all? I was planning on taking it off when I do mine. Only takes a few minutes.

Edit: then again I also have a motorcycle jack to lift/support the tank so I wont need it like you used for support.

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Originally Posted by Matt_

Good info man.

Was the driveshaft in your way at all? I was planning on taking it off when I do mine. Only takes a few minutes.

Edit: then again I also have a motorcycle jack to lift/support the tank so I wont need it like you used for support.

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It's really only in the way for one bolt. The passenger front bolt, my torque wrench would not fit and my 1/2" drive ratchet would not fit either had to use my 3/8" drive. That's the only one that I had issues with. I was able to get the impact on every other bolt for the skid.

Thanks for taking the time to put this together. Amazing job!

Thanks for all the information and pictures! It doesn't look too bad, but I can definitely see how a second pair of hands would make it easier.

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Originally Posted by Chapman89

Thanks for all the information and pictures! It doesn't look too bad, but I can definitely see how a second pair of hands would make it easier.

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Did you find a place to put yours on for you.

Attachment 640 Is this of any benefit to anyone? Found it on my computer, thought i would post.

Stock Skids

https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...idplates-1.jpg

With 4xguard skids and armor
https://theultimatejeep.com/images/i...04xguard-1.jpg

Thanks for the write up. I need to attempt this soon, the skids take up too much room in the basement.

Nice write up.....Drive down south and hook a brotha out with the install!! LOL...

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Originally Posted by IamJEEP

Nice write up.....Drive down south and hook a brotha out with the install!! LOL...

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I would say you cover the gas money and I will, but it would be cheaper to have it installed by a Ferrari mechanic at that price :)

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Originally Posted by Sal-XK

I would say you cover the gas money and I will, but it would be cheaper to have it installed by a Ferrari mechanic at that price :)

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LOL, you're not kidding.....nice write up.

Not without paying an outrageous amount of cash. I was getting quoted about 4 hours of labor at $65-100 per hour. I'll just need to either go home when my dad is around to help or head your way. It's about a 2 hour drive regardless. It'll probably go smoother with someone who's already done it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chapman89

Not without paying an outrageous amount of cash. I was getting quoted about 4 hours of labor at $65-100 per hour. I'll just need to either go home when my dad is around to help or head your way. It's about a 2 hour drive regardless. It'll probably go smoother with someone who's already done it.

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offer still stands bro. I'm sure we can find a day were both available at the same time.

Looks good bro! Glad you posted the part numbers for those clips. I broke mine a while back and Jeep said I couldnt get those seperately.

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Originally Posted by 07JeepXK

Looks good bro! Glad you posted the part numbers for those clips. I broke mine a while back and Jeep said I couldnt get those seperately.

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Thanks man, the first thing I thought when I broke that piece was I would have to by the entire fuel line :( The package says ford GM on it they didn't have anything that said Chrysler or Jeep on it freaking stupid. But they were identical replacements so all was good. :)

Just finished up my skid install. I ended up breaking all the retaining clips and the ones I found for replacements aren't quite the same but they worked and hold the lines. I broke the large EVAP clip at the back of the fuel tank with the 2 lines that branch off and have no replacement clip (wasn't supposed to come off, but it did........oops). The only other thing I ran into was the Hemi has no bleeder valve on the fuel rail so I removed the fuse for the fuel pump and ran it dry to remove the pressure. I also used a high lift floor jack to support the tank when I dropped and reinstalled the tank. Sal, the write up helped a great deal, thanks.

Attachment 644

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wookie

Just finished up my skid install. I ended up breaking all the retaining clips and the ones I found for replacements aren't quite the same but they worked and hold the lines. I broke the large EVAP clip at the back of the fuel tank with the 2 lines that branch off and have no replacement clip (wasn't supposed to come off, but it did........oops). The only other thing I ran into was the Hemi has no bleeder valve on the fuel rail so I removed the fuse for the fuel pump and ran it dry to remove the pressure. I also used a high lift floor jack to support the tank when I dropped and reinstalled the tank. Sal, the write up helped a great deal, thanks.

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The part number in the first post is from advanced auto they were a perfect match for the clips that came off my XK. Sorry to hear you broke that big clip I showed in the write up to leave that one connected did that come apart on accident or did you break it? Now that you're done is there anything I should add to this thread that can help future members out?

Other than having to bleed the fuel line pressure for the Hemi by pulling the fuel pump fuse and running the lines dry everything else is good.

I just installed my tank. While i was at it I modified the tank to allow maximum flex down the road when i get sway bar discos and longer shocks.

Created a secondary How To thread here: http://www.theultimatejeep.com/showt...ified-for-Flex