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Looks like I will be replacing my rack in the coming weeks. The dealer quoted me $1500 and said it might need the intermediate shaft too for an additional $400. Ridiculous!
I know some here have replaced the rack themselves (I searched and couldn't find any info) and I am just looking for any tips I can get before tearing into it or even a basic workflow.
Thanks,
Brendon
Adams replaced his so im sure he'll chime in. I don't think its very "difficult" as much as time consuming.
What type of issue are you having with your rack?
I just replaced mine not long ago along with the steering pump. Like Matt said, its not hard just time consuming. My friend Jay and I did it in a little over three hours with air tools. I unbolted the lower control arms, popped the cv axles out of the diff, then pulled out the front diff. From there you have access to everything. An alignment is needed after replacing the rack since it comes with all new inner and out tie rods so that's why I decided to take the lower control arms off from the frame. I kept it connected to the steering knuckle by the lower ball joint. To make this easier I took out the strut fork bolts
You can replace it without taking the front diff out, just unbolt the large counter weight on the diff, unbolt the front drive shaft and use something to tie back or hold it back out of the way. You'll have to push the rack to one side (just like turning it to full lock) It will come out, i've done it twice, first replacement rack started leaking bad.....
If your going to take out the front drive shaft and the weight on the front diff (my XK doesn't have that weight) then you might as well just pull the whole front diff. It's only 4 more bolts! Get that sucker right out of the way. Will make life much easier for you.
Where have you guys that replaced your rack gotten it from, I think I've read that some people had problems because their replacement rack was for a grand cherokee and they are different even though its the same part number or something to that effect. Think it's safe ordering from rock auto? I've being chasing a clunk/rattle that developed a couple months after upgrading to OME and found some play in the left inner tie rod, but when I was replacing it found that the play was in the rack itself. Tried to adjust the steering yoke but no go. Has anyone found a write up on changing the rack? I've been looking but haven't seen any any.
Get it from the dealer only. Give them your vin
Will do, thanks.
Welcome. It's not worth the hassle buying a used one not knowing if it came out of an XK or WK prior to being rebuilt