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You'd put them on with the strut in the car, jack up the lca to compress the spring as much as possible and then use the compressors for more. That'll get a lot of the preload off
Just jacking up from the lca doesnt get much of the preload because you just lift the vehicle.
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Who was it that mentioned cleaning the lint off the lense? Genius, pure genius!
Attachment 1847Attachment 1848Attachment 1849Attachment 1850Attachment 1851
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I tightened down the top center strut nut as tight as I could get it using the socket within a socket technique.... 8mm socket on a 1/4" drive inside an 18mm sparkplug socket with a wrench on it. I think it's all the way down now, it seemed to come to a stop before the 18mm slipped off. We should change the original instruction sheet on installing the OME as it states to only pull that nut down a 1/4 inch leaving 4 or 5 threads on top.
It drives over pot holes much better now (lot's of those in jersey this time of year) only banging hard on the occasional disaster. It was smacking hard on nearly all pot holes previously and I was avoiding them like the plague, though often it is impossible.
Matt - you had asked a while back about downward travel.... When I lift up the front, center of hub to fender is 24". With it back on the ground it is about 22 3/4" leaving only slightly over an inch of downward travel. However, after lifting it up and setting it back down I am at 38" (ground to fender) in the front (even after bouncing up and down on the bumper). this seems to lower to 37 1/2" after some driving (unless the discrepancy is coming from something else) which would mean 22 1/4" once it settles and 1 3/4" down travel. .....either way it's not much!
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Your truck looks great thance! I'm even more excited about mine after viewing your photos.
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Thanks Joe! I thought I had overdone it at first, but am quickly growing use to it. I have how-to's on the rear tow rings and seudo-sliders as well as the front plow-mount and receiver somewhere, possibly over on jeepcommander.com. I should start up a garage thread someday and get everything together... someday.
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Thance, I couldn't find your rear tow ring write up on this site or jeepcommander.com. I am very interested in doing this to gain better rear tow points, if you could post up a how-to it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Ross
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Those look like 4xGuard rear sliders.
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They are not 4xGuard, though similar, I did them from scratch.
This is going from memory, but I bought 2 pieces of 3/16" steel 2"x36".
I cut them in half giving me 4 18" long pieces.
Cut a slope on the back bottom edge, so they tapered up a little bit in the rear making the rear edge 1 1/2 - 1 3/4".
Drilled 2 7/16" holes through each one to bolt into the rear sub frame.
Drilled matching holes through the sub frame.
Drilled a very large hole through the rear of each piece where the shackle connects.
Bolted it all together.
Cost about $14 in steel and another few for the shackles and bolts.
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Here are some pics of the rear shackle mounts:
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Realized how scruffy they looked and applied some nice new flat black Rustolium:
Attachment 1911