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Thread: What did you do to your XK today!?

  1. #521
    Super Moderator Getting Dirty 07JeepXK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by criket View Post
    ^Can't you just undo the end with the adjustment, spin it out to whatever you need and put it back on? (with the jeep on jack stands of course)

    Edit: maybe not. I haven't installed one yet so who am I to speak, lol.

    Thats exactly what I did last weekend. I just took out the passenger side bolt, adjusted it and tightened it back down with a huge wrench.


    Quote Originally Posted by Sal-XK View Post
    Not really the size wrench needed to tighten this thing I would never get it in the space available.

    I had to take my angle grinder and cut the wrench in half. Perfect fit!



    Quote Originally Posted by Sal-XK View Post
    No I just guessed and made it longer. To get the driver side bolt out I had to jack the jeep up by the frame rail in back a little bit so the spring wood open up but you need to take the passenger bolt out first. You'll see what I mean when your down there. Just measure how it's off and make it that much longer then the stock one. You'll need to jack one side up a little to get the holes to line up once you do that as well.


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    If its off a 1/2 inch to the drivers side (just throwing a number out there) you want to adjust the track bar out 1/4 inch (half the distance its off to center the axle).
    2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete

  2. #522
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    But remember, the bar is the hypotenuse of the triangle. So 1/2" may only move the axle 1/4" over.

    When I do mine I plan on measuring the actual triangle. Then some freshman geometry will tell me how far to adjust it.... hopefully get it right the first time! (Ill probably measure the height leg with gas tank almost empty and again after I fill up to give me an idea how much that will matter, quantitatively )

  3. #523
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    .... or am I overthinking it (I do that often) and the angle is so shallow that 1/4" is almost 1/4"? Though I'd probably still go a bit further to account for a shallow angle and to keep the driveshaft a bit further away from the gas tank skid.... I'd rather it be 1/8" off towards the passenger side than drivers side.

  4. #524
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Sal-XK's Avatar
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    Exactly if I'm going to be off I want it off in the other direction to keep the shaft as far from the tank as possible.


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  5. #525
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Sal-XK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 07JeepXK View Post
    I had to take my angle grinder and cut the wrench in half. Perfect fit!
    Hahahah custom tool love it!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #526
    Super Moderator Getting Dirty 07JeepXK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt View Post
    But remember, the bar is the hypotenuse of the triangle. So 1/2" may only move the axle 1/4" over.

    When I do mine I plan on measuring the actual triangle. Then some freshman geometry will tell me how far to adjust it.... hopefully get it right the first time! (Ill probably measure the height leg with gas tank almost empty and again after I fill up to give me an idea how much that will matter, quantitatively )
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt View Post
    .... or am I overthinking it (I do that often) and the angle is so shallow that 1/4" is almost 1/4"? Though I'd probably still go a bit further to account for a shallow angle and to keep the driveshaft a bit further away from the gas tank skid.... I'd rather it be 1/8" off towards the passenger side than drivers side.
    You might be correct, but I think you are overthinking it. I dont think your ever going to get it perfectly centered unless thats something they can do during alignment. I just eyed it up and got it as close as I could. No more axle hanging out farther on the drivers side!
    2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete

  7. #527
    Senior Member Getting Dirty lekmedm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt View Post
    .... or am I overthinking it (I do that often)....

    Yes, you are overthinking this. Just get yourself the Superlift and stop worrying about all that other stuff. With all the money you spend on making corrections, a budget lift will run out like the federal budget! How many trillions are we in debt these days? Eh, oh well.

    So calculate:

    budget lift
    corrected UCA
    track bars
    OME springs?
    coil overs?
    ball joints
    whatever other goodies

    = how much...?

    Most here are drooling over getting a Superlift, including me. It's designed to solve geometry issues. Just pull the trigger.

    Now, I know that some other aftermarket parts are beefier, etc., so you might want to get them anyway, but IMHO, starting off with the budget lifts and dumping all the extra money on top of that is kind of a waste.

    Just my 0.02.
    2007 Commander Overland / 4" SuperLift / 285/70R17 Cooper Discoverer ST Maxx / Rusty's adjustable rear UCAs / Carolina Driveline front drive shaft / Flashpaq / DRLs & Tilting Mirrors / Autolite Iridiums / Cobra 29LX Chrome LE CB & Firestik antenna / Rear fog lights / Mopar Grille Guard with HID driving lights
    "4 wheel drive does not mean 4 wheel stop!" -Lee Goldberg, WABC TV weatherman

  8. #528
    Super Moderator Getting Dirty 07JeepXK's Avatar
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    Unless you want a low center of gravity with huge tires like Sal and I.....lol
    2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete

  9. #529
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    To keep it short, the SL is anything but a complete kit IMO. I weighed the options and went with OME for the time being. The extra money I spent isn't wasted since all the parts I installed thus far would he used in conjunction with SL to improve their kit.

  10. #530
    Senior Member Getting Dirty lekmedm's Avatar
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    OK. I'm by far no expert. I just know that often enough it's easy to start off small due to budget when you know you'll really end up going big in the end anyway. That's not just for building up Jeeps either.

    Eh, what's important is that you're enjoying the XK!
    2007 Commander Overland / 4" SuperLift / 285/70R17 Cooper Discoverer ST Maxx / Rusty's adjustable rear UCAs / Carolina Driveline front drive shaft / Flashpaq / DRLs & Tilting Mirrors / Autolite Iridiums / Cobra 29LX Chrome LE CB & Firestik antenna / Rear fog lights / Mopar Grille Guard with HID driving lights
    "4 wheel drive does not mean 4 wheel stop!" -Lee Goldberg, WABC TV weatherman

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