Aux driving lights HID conversion

[lekmedm]

Has anyone converted a standard auxiliary driving light to use HID bulbs/ballasts? I see that H3 HID kits are available, but I wonder how well the bulbs fit and how good the light is.

[Adondo]

I've done a couple. One set is in the motorcoach. They're 5" x 7" driving lights that are set into the front air dam. I HAD photos hosted on village.com, but their site has died. (Taking about 800 of my web photos with them!) So much for showing you pictures.

I replaced them with 5x7 tractor lights with a trapezoid pattern. I removed the original H3 bulbs. (The lights were new) I had to make the access hole larger in the back to accommodate the HID's wiring, and seal them in with silicone. The ballasts are mounted up under the front of the bus. The trapezoid beam makes a sharp cut-off at the edges so they don't bother other drivers. The beams are close in, about 50 ~ 60 feet out, but the fog and yellow pavement lines are in "daylight" even in heavy rain. Reflective road signs pop out too.

I haven't done any KC lights, but the idea would be the same - remote the ballasts somewhere else. It would turn them into virtual flamethrowers too.

[Sal-XK]

Here you go man http://www.theultimatejeep.com/showt...ght=conversion

[lekmedm]

Thanks, Adondo. So you didn't have any clearance issues with the HID H3 bulbs in the standard housings you were using? That's really my main concern, that the bulbs fit and the hot spot is positioned to give maximum reflection.



Thanks for the link, Sal. However, that whole thread is for converting stock headlights. I'm looking to take my aftermarket Westin driving lights and upgrade them to HID.

[Sal-XK]

I see no problem man

[lekmedm]

Well, HID bulbs are a bit longer than the standard ones. That's why I ask if there are clearance or fitment issues using a standard aux driving light housing.

[Adondo]

The only problem I would foresee would be if the lights you want to use have internal bulb shields. (Filament glare blocking shields) The HID element might reach in too far. Better to get a light that's sans-shields. If the reflector can be totally removed, (Not glue-bonded to the front glass) then you can cut the shields or bend them out of the way.

The only other thing that has to be done is find a way to get the large HID wire loom out of the housing. I just made a larger hole and silicone sealed it back up. The wire has to withstand the high voltage arc start-up, so it can't be swapped out for something else. The connectors on the ballast is also designed to contain that voltage. The HID elements run at around 85 volts after being lit up, but it's around 10,000 volts to get the arc started. You don't want THAT leaking out.