I would try and keep the molding mostly for its protective purposes against people accidentally denting the doors with thier car doors/shopping carts
I would try and keep the molding mostly for its protective purposes against people accidentally denting the doors with thier car doors/shopping carts
2008 3.7L QT-1 dark blue Jeep Commander // 3+" modified OME lift with 3/8" Rocky Road strut spacer // 4" rear SL springs // 265/70/17 Goodyear Duratracs (Load E) // 1.5" spidertraxx spacers // F-150 Monroe Load Levelers // 4xguard matrix, front guard, belly guard, and rock sliders // 130 watt KC Daylighters - 2 // Airflow snorkel // Thrush welded exhaust // Defender Roof Rack with side ladder // Hypertech Max Energy Programmer
his new sliders will protect from dents against car doors when he puts them on.
I looked in the parts manual and the image of the door panel looks like holes for clips..... so they'll probably have to stay on.
Well, one thing is clear for sure I'm not done paintingOriginally Posted by Matt
his new sliders will protect from dents against car doors when he puts them on.
I looked in the parts manual and the image of the door panel looks like holes for clips..... so they'll probably have to stay on.I know I need to go up to the next body line no matter what but, will that look good or continuing to the next body line at the top of the crease look better? I'm thinking the first body line and leaving the crease the body color.
Does the bottom or top of the crease correlate to any other features? Like, if the top of the crease is in line with the top of the bumpers, then that's where id paint to.
Just go up to the next body line and it will look awsome. Use painters tape and mask off the molding and then paint right over it. Once the paint dries take the tape off the molding.Well, one thing is clear for sure I'm not done painting
2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
Sal,
Disregard what Neil said and fill'em with bondo.....He is just trying to get you to spend more money than you need to.
Mix some 5 min epoxy with bondo and stick it in the hole. Use toilet paper to wipe the excess with.
When it hardens, use light sandpaper until it is smooth and shiney shinny shinney polish it real good.
It will look great, I promise.
I'm Joe Isuzu.
I was trying to gets pics for you (other thread) but was not sucessful. I was thinking of the plastic molding above the rockers.
You already had that covered.....
How about the flex steel stuff that is kinda like the epoxy, would that work? kinda like JB weld.....
removing side molding
Check this out....is this legal for me to post a link to another forum?
Sure why not....
2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
Thanks for the link and you know it's ok to post threads to other forums here SILLY
Sliders NOTwithstanding, THIS! Think about pickups, where the lower part of THEIR door would be ABOVE the slider!
'07 Jeep Commander, Rocky Mountain Edition - 287 V-8 - Superchipped - aFe Stage II R-5A CAI - Flowmaster Super 44 - 2" Daystar lift - Spidertrax spacers - 32x10.5x17 Cooper A/T's - Fastman throttlebody - Skyjacker 8000 shocks
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