Would you remove the front frame support for a better WINCH bumper?

[Matt]

Neil, Jon's trying to make this a bolt in replacement.... no welding. Done correctly, there wont be any structural issues (as far as making it weaker).

As far as making it stronger... those are valid concerns. But at the same time, modifying vehicles isn't for everyone. If you want to build your Jeep (or any vehicle) to do some serious (And fun) offroading and still drive it on the street, those are risks you have to accept. You can mitigate those risks by driving safely and remembering you're in a modified rig, not a Porsche.

On another note.... more people are modifying their vehicles these days just for fun; don't you want to protect yourself from being the "sardine can" . Lol

[LWM]

This installation would require the purchaser to remove the center cross member which could be done with a hack saw or saws-all, all replacement parts will bolt on so you will not need any welding skills or equipment. It is my intention to have you bolt the new mount in place prior to removing the cross member so there should be no moving of any parts due to the removal of the cross member.

[Holaday07 4.7]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0plbzDV2gm4

saw this bumper today. looks nice and lo-profile with the winch

[LWM]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0plbzDV2gm4

saw this bumper today. looks nice and lo-profile with the winch

Yep, that's the Maniac bumper, that is the look I am going for.

[NeilSmith]

I wouldn't have a problem doing it to my own rig. Every mod has its benefits and drawbacks, I guess. Another thing to consider would be whether the mod will pass your state's safety inspection, if your state has one. Here in Va you're not supposed to have an altered suspension which means that technically lift kits are illegal. But the shops dont worry about it and I've never heard of anyone failing inspection because of a lift except where they were too high because there is a height limit. Jon, I do like that it will be a bolt-in mod. What I really like is that it will be installed prior to cutting out the cross support to keep the frame rails from spreading apart. Just more things to think about.

[Omelet]

Hmmm, I might consider cutting mine.















Oh wait! I already did!!!




Depending on the design, the purchaser really only needs to make two cuts with a sawzall or angle grinder. Here is the wimpy stock crossmember:



And the winch cradle I made to take it's place:



As the purchaser after the stock crossmember is cut out, you only have to bolt in the cradle/bumper using the tow hook holes plus drilling additional holes for added strength. So when you go to do the instal all you would need is a cutting tool (sawzall, angle grinder, cut off wheel, heck even a hack saw ) and a drill.

Once installed with the factory bumper (I know you are not using the factory bumper but making a steel high clearance one). This will help show the profile:







I am not trying to hijack! I just wanted to share some info and pics for those who have not already seen it. If you are buying a kit from a company, then it will be a fairly straight forward instal. They will have already done all the hard work for you and now you just have to make a couple of cut, drill a few holes, and bolt in your new steel high clearance winch bumper!

I have been running this setup since June with zero issues. Those who know me know that I do some pretty good wheeling and really flex this thing out. I have not had any issues with twisting or tweaking the frame. In fact I noticed better handling and a firmer steering after the instal which I assume is do to swapping the stock crossmember out for a 1/4" steel cradle!

[Matt]

^^^ I was waiting for you to post up man!!

Question- didnt you take measurements before you cut the crossmember and found that nothing moved at all once it was cut out? I remember seeing some pictures with the crossmember removed.

In other words, there wasn't any residual stress in that area so it didn't need to be braced before you cut it...

[Sal-XK]

Well, there's the WK I was talking about. Thanks for posting up you pics Omelet so everyone can see another example of what were talking about.

[LWM]

I have been running this setup since June with zero issues. Those who know me know that I do some pretty good wheeling and really flex this thing out. I have not had any issues with twisting or tweaking the frame. In fact I noticed better handling and a firmer steering after the instal which I assume is do to swapping the stock crossmember out for a 1/4" steel cradle!

That is EXACTLY what I am talking about, thanks for the photos, wish I had them 5 weeks ago.

[Omelet]

^^^ I was waiting for you to post up man!!

Question- didnt you take measurements before you cut the crossmember and found that nothing moved at all once it was cut out? I remember seeing some pictures with the crossmember removed.

In other words, there wasn't any residual stress in that area so it didn't need to be braced before you cut it...

Yes I did measure before and after and it was fine. Before I cut I had a fab buddy check it out to see if I would have to brace it before cutting like TRZ did. He said that although it wouldn't hurt, he did see it being necessary because there was enough support from the sub-frame and radiator support.

That is EXACTLY what I am talking about, thanks for the photos, wish I had them 5 weeks ago.

Sorry Bud, I did send you the link to my build on JF when we were talking on FB didn't I?