Placement of the wiring harness; relay tucks under the seat frame, two wires run up the side to the heating elements, and power leads and switch connection tuck under the carpet and run out to the door sill.



Test run of the switch-wire length. Just enough to make it... (there are about seven inches of wire harness connected to the switch already installed.)



Closeup of the harness that clips into the B-pillar. Was expecting an open passage for the new wires and was really frustrated to find none.



After some brainstorming and finagling I finally figured out how to pass the wires through: removing a section of the shrink tubing allowed the wires to fit through the small space on the OEM harness.



Reassembled with the extra wires run through.



Looking through the hole where the window switch goes (door panel on) I expected a quick and simple pass through the door alongside the window-switch wires for a direct route to the warmer-relay wires. Yeah right. The switch wires run down to the bottom, across, then back up to the B-pillar hinge as to not interfere with a recessed window pane. It was only after disassembling the entire door and peeling the sound-foam off that I discovered a hole in the sheet metal JUST big enough to pass my connector through. You can see the faint outline of the hole above the speaker hole. This layout allowed for my wires to just barely clip together, yet tuck safe behind the window regulator motor/wires and complete my direct route wiring sceme. Clearly it was meant to be.



Final switch assembly.