Rack and pinion needs drop on Superlift

[TrialByFire]

After breaking two tie rods (and bending a third) in the last year or so I have discovered that the Superlift with AEV wheel combo requires the RPS assembly dropped to avoid interference. I checked the install instructions for the Superlift and they don't say anything about remounting the RPS but it looks to me as if I can drop it a couple of inches by simply drilling two new mounting holes. That should be enough for the tie rods to clear the AEV wheels under all conditions--as well as reducing the steering angles of the tie rods. The RPS assembly is still in its stock mounting position and with the 4" drop brackets installed with the Superlift, the knuckles are now 4" below the stock position. Off-road when a wheel drops and turned to lock, the tie rod will bend, weaken, and eventually break!

I am going to get a new RPS assembly on order as the current one is on its last legs. Once I pull the skid plates off I'll know if I can drop the assembly (and by how much).

[Sal-XK]

If you can do it some pics would be great!

[Matt]

You may be putting yourself at risk of excessive bump-steer if you lower the rack. The tie rods must be at the same angle as the control arms so they follow the same arc through suspension travel. If you lower the rack to have flatter tie rod angles relative to the control arm angles, you'll drastically change the toe angle as the suspension cycles.

do you have any current pictures of your front suspension components? I'd be amazed if they're not at the same angles... If the tie rods are at a steeper angle then the control arms, then there is benefit to lowering them for that reason as well.

[Sal-XK]

Is that only an issue with the AEV wheels? now I'm confused LOL

[07JeepXK]

The superlift steering knuckles were designed to accommodate for the drop down brackets and bring the tie rods back to stock geometry and keep the tie rods and lower control arm parallel. You are the only one I know that is having this problem. Maybe you should just invest in a different set of wheels. Maybe some 18s so the wheels clear the tie rod ends.

[stites-xk]

I haven't had any problems yet with stock wheels and spaces other than my hole rack is going bad.

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[07JeepXK]

When you say your rack is going bad, what is it doing that makes you say it's going bad. I've been lifted for 4 years now and running 33s and dont seem to have any problems with my rack yet.

[stites-xk]

When you say your rack is going bad, what is it doing that makes you say it's going bad. I've been lifted for 4 years now and running 33s and dont seem to have any problems with my rack yet.

I've replaced my tie rods and I still get a really bad clunk when I turn the wheel so I crawled underneath the jeep and pushed up on the driver side tie rod boot and I can feel the clunk.

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[Omelet]

Here's a pic showing the difference between OEM and SL. You can see how much longer the UCA mount is as well and the tie rod mount.




And what I have found is the racks are hit and miss. Some seem to give up quite easily while others are more robust. It also greatly depends on how the Jeep is driven. If you spend time off road, particularly more difficult trails where you max out the travel and take hard hits, then it probably won't live as long. But if you really ever wheel it or stick to easier trail the rack will probably last longer. I am sure weight also has a big role to play!

[07JeepXK]

I've replaced my tie rods and I still get a really bad clunk when I turn the wheel so I crawled underneath the jeep and pushed up on the driver side tie rod boot and I can feel the clunk.

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Oh, I see what you are saying. I was getting a bad clunk from the drivers side this past winter and replaced the drivers side inner and outer tie rod and it went away for a few weeks. Then I started hearing it again but its very slight now and only happens when I take off hard from a red light. I can also feel slight play where the inner tie rod screws into the rack underneith the boot. No big deal. Im going to drive it until it has to be replaced. The alignment is dead on and I havent noticed anything bad resulting from that slight clunk. Im almost at 107,000 miles on the stock rack running 33's.