Rack and pinion needs drop on Superlift

[stites-xk]

Oh, I see what you are saying. I was getting a bad clunk from the drivers side this past winter and replaced the drivers side inner and outer tie rod and it went away for a few weeks. Then I started hearing it again but its very slight now and only happens when I take off hard from a red light. I can also feel slight play where the inner tie rod screws into the rack underneith the boot. No big deal. Im going to drive it until it has to be replaced. The alignment is dead on and I havent noticed anything bad resulting from that slight clunk. Im almost at 107,000 miles on the stock rack running 33's.

Mines really bad loud clunks taking off and turning but I wheel my xk really hard. No easy trails for me. I like the challenge.

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[07JeepXK]

Same here. I don't like easy boring trails. Blues and a few blacks for me when I visit Rausch Creek. That's what they made skid plates for!

[Matt]

Are you going to RC this weekend?

[07JeepXK]

Are you going to RC this weekend?

This weekend isnt looking to promising. My little brother just got the new engine in the TJ and on the road again Saturday. All of his buddies are slowly backing out at the last minute. The one guy just installed a 6 inch lift and 3 inch body on his Titan but cant get tires in time and is rockin bald 33's that are way to small for the amount of lift he has. Im going to talk to my brother and find out whats going on. The weekend of the 15-17 looks like a better weekend.

[stites-xk]

If i lived closer i would be there, but can't take any time off work right now

[Matt]

…The weekend of the 15-17 looks like a better weekend.

Well, just a reminder ill be there on the 17th. Still unknown who's coming with me so not positive on the level of trails.... but RC is set up nicely to accommodate all levels without drastically splitting up.

[TrialByFire]

The superlift steering knuckles were designed to accommodate for the drop down brackets and bring the tie rods back to stock geometry and keep the tie rods and lower control arm parallel. You are the only one I know that is having this problem. Maybe you should just invest in a different set of wheels. Maybe some 18s so the wheels clear the tie rod ends.

I would love to get a new set of wheels (beadlocks?) as I have had nothing but problems with the Pintlers, but the wife is starting to limit my 'investment' in the XK.
I suppose I could go back to the 1/4" wheel spacers (which fixed the interference problem) but the studs aren't really long enough for that and Discount Tire won't touch them. I still don't understand why the AEV wheel and SL combo rubs when the two companies worked together on the Superlift!

I can see from the photos that the SL knuckles have the same attachment position for the tie rod and understand the reasoning why the geometry should not have changed. The UCA is mounted on the stock attachment holes but the LCA was dropped 4". The JBA UCAs do appear to drop the ball joint below where the OEM ball joint would be positioned but I'm not sure how much (1"?). The SL knuckles don't appear to be 4" longer than the OEM. Is it?

[TrialByFire]

Oh, I see what you are saying. I was getting a bad clunk from the drivers side this past winter and replaced the drivers side inner and outer tie rod and it went away for a few weeks. Then I started hearing it again but its very slight now and only happens when I take off hard from a red light. I can also feel slight play where the inner tie rod screws into the rack underneith the boot. No big deal. Im going to drive it until it has to be replaced. The alignment is dead on and I havent noticed anything bad resulting from that slight clunk. Im almost at 107,000 miles on the stock rack running 33's.

I just checked and the Cardone rack and pinion assembly is still not available from either O'Reilly or NAPA. It looks like the only option for an replacement is Mopar-Wholesale at about $650. Ouch! I think I will try to rebuild mine if I can.

[stites-xk]

I just checked and the Cardone rack and pinion assembly is still not available from either O'Reilly or NAPA. It looks like the only option for an replacement is Mopar-Wholesale at about $650. Ouch! I think I will try to rebuild mine if I can.

Check rock auto.com out they might have one. a rebuild one at least

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[TrialByFire]

Check rock auto.com out they might have one. a rebuild one at least

They do list an ATSCO part in stock. I'll give them a call tomorrow.