We'll have it figured out in a few hours.
12.5 is normal for voltage when not running. The key is what the voltage drops to when he tries starting it. A good battery will stay above 10 volts while cranking. If it drops below that its not enough to turn the engine over.
Starter!!
2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
lol i hope its the battery for 2 reasons:
1) its an easy fix
2) you're wrong
(fyi lights & windows working does not mean a battery is good. they dont pull the amperage that a starter does and newer vehicles actually have circuitry that prevents the starter from engaging with low battery voltage, so you won't get that slow cranking that's the norm with older vehicles and dead/dying batteries)
I know. Lol I want it to be the starter so it makes your day harder! Haha
2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
Well we will see in a few hours I guess. My batt sits at 12.8 and 13 when it's fully charged when it's at 12.5 I hit the button for % and it's nowhere near 100% not sure if that means anything. If a battery is bad not only will it have to charge a few minuets the car jumping it needs to be big enough as well. Had a rice burner trying to jump a caddy revving it and all kinds of stuff. I said let me try he argued with me man I have a red top if I can't do it you can't. The caddy owner finally let me try cranked over first try. I looked at him and said I have a 160amp alternator and my battery is twice as big as yours the guy was butt hurt LOL
And if you read my posts I never said a "bad" starter. Just said Im thinking it's the starter!
2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
Originally Posted by 07JeepXK
lol..you guys are crazy
Save that for RC!!
2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
Nope you were wrong like the rest of us. I always say battery first until you say you have completed the steps to rule that out. Click no start test battery then harness then starter in that order simplest first.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote