Oh no doubt Id like to have a 6" lift but I know whats realistic and whats not right now..
Oh no doubt Id like to have a 6" lift but I know whats realistic and whats not right now..
2K6 Limited Jeep Green Metallic/Saddle Brown Leather XK HEMI QDII Old Man Emu HD Suspension w/ Fox Emulsion 2.0 Rear Shocks 1.5" SpiderTraxx Wheel Spacers 265/70 GoodYear MTRs w/Kevlar True Dual Exhuast w/IMCO 50 K&N 63 CAI Diablo 91/Performance Transmission Tuned SA Belly Skid MOPAR Gas Tank Skid, Transfer Case Skid, Suspension Skid Front Tow Hooks 6k HID Lows/3k Fogs
lol Yeah I know...its not realistic for me right now either (I wish I still lived with my mom) then It would be realistic!!!!
I Want to have the SL on mine before Adam does!
2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
I am going to take a look this afternoon in the wheelwell again, but after finding this picture on Rocky Road's website my idea may not work.
I have pretty much convinced myself the whole engine cradle can be lowered 1-1/2" along with the transmission crossbar lowered 1-1/2". Lowering the front subframe with steel or aluminum spacers and longer grade 10.9 fasteners. Next was to lengthen the lower section of the steering column shaft between the last two u-joints. The 1-1/2" is the max because the headers are getting very close to the steering column u-joint. If I was running stock exhaust manifolds 2" may have been possible.
But I also thought there was room to re-drill holes 1-1/2" lower for the Upper Arm pivot points. With the way the body is constructed in that area, that may not be possible unless a section was cut out and new welded in.
06 Red Jeep XK 3.7L V6 QT1, RC 2" with 1/2", 1-1/4" Wheel Spacers, Rubicon Moab Rims, Grabber AT2 LT265/70-17, Rocky Road Supersliders, Fastman Throttle-body, K&N Cold Air Filter, JBA Headers, Front Tow Hooks, 2" receiver front & rear, Wired for winch front & rear, ARB Onboard Air, Trans Temp Gauge, Aux Trans Cooler, Sport Roof Crossbars, Skid Plates, RS5010 Rear Shocks, JKS 2034 Front & 2001 Rear Disconnects
If you were to do that and keep the factory knuckle, you would need to angle the bj mounts or they would run out of travel very quickly and bind, and the resultant travel would be a short arc instead of a relatively straight travel with the factory or superlift setup. Your upper and lower control arms need to be in a same plane relationship (yes I'm generalizing but for this case it will do!)
Your bump steer would be horrendous too.
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2007 WH Grand Cherokee CRD QDII - 3" Exhaust, GDE Flash Tune, CRDSTU Hybrid Lift & bash Plates, 4xGuard Rock Rails & Rear Sliders, Saguaro F&R Bars, Warn 9.5CTI-s, AEV Saverge Rims, 35" KM2's, Snorkel, Custom Rear Drawers, ARB Dual Compressor + On Board Air, BullyDog Monitor, Dual Optimas Front and Dual Rear Aux Batteries YouTube Vids
Sorry, phone hadn't updated, what Matt and Sal said!! :-D
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2007 WH Grand Cherokee CRD QDII - 3" Exhaust, GDE Flash Tune, CRDSTU Hybrid Lift & bash Plates, 4xGuard Rock Rails & Rear Sliders, Saguaro F&R Bars, Warn 9.5CTI-s, AEV Saverge Rims, 35" KM2's, Snorkel, Custom Rear Drawers, ARB Dual Compressor + On Board Air, BullyDog Monitor, Dual Optimas Front and Dual Rear Aux Batteries YouTube Vids
I have the pivot points all worked out as to keeping it all as stock, think of it as moving everything down 1-1/2". So when done the CV joints and tie rods see a 2-1/2" lift, Is 2-1/2" of lift too much?
06 Red Jeep XK 3.7L V6 QT1, RC 2" with 1/2", 1-1/4" Wheel Spacers, Rubicon Moab Rims, Grabber AT2 LT265/70-17, Rocky Road Supersliders, Fastman Throttle-body, K&N Cold Air Filter, JBA Headers, Front Tow Hooks, 2" receiver front & rear, Wired for winch front & rear, ARB Onboard Air, Trans Temp Gauge, Aux Trans Cooler, Sport Roof Crossbars, Skid Plates, RS5010 Rear Shocks, JKS 2034 Front & 2001 Rear Disconnects
Jim, you definitely don't have it figured out unless I'm reading it wrong? Forget about tie rods & CV axles.... first step is UCA/LCA/Spindle. You said you're lowering the LCA pivot point and using the stock spindle. The are you moving the UCA down too? That's the only alternate method to maintaining the kinematic relationship of the system.... if you lower the pivot point of the LCA you must either utilize a longer spindle OR lower the UCA equivalently.
If you don't use one of those methods the car will not drive. Try drawing it out to scale best you can and calculate the equation for the spindle angle in relation to the vertical axis (aka camber). The change in camber as the suspension cycles is a key design factor which aids in driveability, handling and performance. Its allowable delta is also bounded by the steering restrictions since camber changes correlate directly to toe angle changes. If that relationship is also not maintained you'll (at a minimum) have a bad case of bump steer which can not be corrected by other means.
Last edited by Matt; 08-30-2012 at 05:32 AM.
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