Steering Rack Yoke Adjustment (Solve popping noise)

[Matt]

While i'm not sure if this is the root cause to my popping noise (ill find out Saturday), I know this has solved a lot of WK/XK owners issues who couldn't track down a strange pop/clunk in their front end.

There's a yoke adjustment on the steering rack. It's used to set the gear mesh during assembly and I can replicate my clunk noise with a pry bar pushing upwards on the driver side tie rod, indicating excessive clearance in the gears at this location. The adjustment is on the driver side of the rack pointing up/forward; you can see it if you look above the sway bar.... though I think 3.7L and 4.7L vehicles you need to remove the oil filter drain guard because that sits over it. I think that, primarily for us lifted guys, we wear our pinion gear down more due to the upward force from the angles associated with our lift kits.

You need an External Torx socket, size E20. (You can get one for $10 off amazon/sears/etc.) or a 17mm socket/wrench depending on model model year.

I'll take some pictures when I do mine this weekend, but here's a diagram:

[BonesWK]

Looking forward to hear about your results

[07JeepXK]

Nice! Unfortunately if this does fix that issue, my rack still needed to be replaced because it was gushing power steering fluid everywhere.

[Matt]

The GOOD news: I just adjusted the yoke and my tie-rod doesn't knock around anymore!
The BAD news: (Well... just for me) I still have a crappy pop/creak sound in the front that I can't find! lol

Quick update, my rack wasn't an E20 (I read that elsewhere). 17mm wrench was all I needed

This is originally how I came to looking at my steering rack. With a pry bar lifting up on my tie rod I was able to get a knocking noise (the wetness on the boot is silicone spray- I use this periodically to protect all the rubber boots. My rack is not leaking):



Here's some shots of the yoke adjustment and how I adjusted it:

[07JeepXK]

Which way did you turn the wrench and how much did you adjust it??

[Matt]

Clockwise to tighten it. Said and done I probably went a ~3/8 turn tighter.

- I tightened it little by little until I couldn't make the knocking sound with the pry bar
- Went for a drive.
- Came back and was able to make the knocking sound again so I tightened it again until the sound was gone, and gave it a little extra for good measure (probably almost a full 1/2 turn at this point).
- Went for another drive and noticed the wheel wouldn't return to center on its own...
- Loosened it up about 1/8 turn, made sure the knocking noise wasn't there
- Went for a drive and the wheel returned to center like its supposed to... left it like that

[JumpmasterRT]

This may be the solution I've been looking for. When mine pops it causes the left wheel to come out of alignment and resets when I hit the brakes. It usually only happens when i'm turning left excessively... can't wait to try it.

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[Matt]

Take a good look at your control arm bushings as well

[findaname]

Great description of how to adjust. Many thanks. By the way, I read here of some people encountering leakage of power-steering fluid. I have also experienced this and it can appear quite suddenly and leak quite a lot. Not to worry. Before doing anything dramatic (read - expensive and/or difficult) please do try Lucas Stop Leaks. It is an amazingly effective product. I have used it on my three last Jeeps and it solved the leaking problems IMMMEDIATELY!!!!.

Remember not to overfill your steering fluid. If you do, when the fluid heats up and expands, you cause pressure within the system and this can result in the leaks which some experience.
Allow room below the MAX mark, to allow for expansion.

[Rollem]

This may be the solution I've been looking for. When mine pops it causes the left wheel to come out of alignment and resets when I hit the brakes. It usually only happens when i'm turning left excessively... can't wait to try it.

Sent from my Galaxy S III using Tapatalk 2

When wheels were turned hard left or right, wheel stop had worn a groove, which matched up only under certain load conditions. When it does not match up any motion or tap of brakes causes it to suddenly drop in place resulting in a sound like a sledge hammer had hit frame. (I did notice in previous posters' picture in background this same wear. Surface grinder to resurface contact area fixed problem. But this is casted metal contacting cast aluminun so it is not the final solution.

I am certain this is a common problem on all Jeeps with this design. see attached pic.
This is my 2010 Jeep Cherokee Problem started at about 36,000 miles

Rollem

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