Nice! Unfortunately if this does fix that issue, my rack still needed to be replaced because it was gushing power steering fluid everywhere.
Nice! Unfortunately if this does fix that issue, my rack still needed to be replaced because it was gushing power steering fluid everywhere.
2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
The GOOD news: I just adjusted the yoke and my tie-rod doesn't knock around anymore!
The BAD news: (Well... just for me) I still have a crappy pop/creak sound in the front that I can't find! lol
Quick update, my rack wasn't an E20 (I read that elsewhere). 17mm wrench was all I needed
This is originally how I came to looking at my steering rack. With a pry bar lifting up on my tie rod I was able to get a knocking noise (the wetness on the boot is silicone spray- I use this periodically to protect all the rubber boots. My rack is not leaking):
Here's some shots of the yoke adjustment and how I adjusted it:
Which way did you turn the wrench and how much did you adjust it??
2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
Clockwise to tighten it. Said and done I probably went a ~3/8 turn tighter.
- I tightened it little by little until I couldn't make the knocking sound with the pry bar
- Went for a drive.
- Came back and was able to make the knocking sound again so I tightened it again until the sound was gone, and gave it a little extra for good measure (probably almost a full 1/2 turn at this point).
- Went for another drive and noticed the wheel wouldn't return to center on its own...
- Loosened it up about 1/8 turn, made sure the knocking noise wasn't there
- Went for a drive and the wheel returned to center like its supposed to... left it like that
Awesome Matt, thanks for the pictures!
is it hard to turn the nut? have to use any PB or should it turn on its own?
I may have to take a peek at mine this weekend and do the same thing.
Ryan ---- 2006 WK 4.7 QDII <- Click for Garage
2.25" RR Lift - Front Bilstiens - Rear OMEs - 32" Wildpeaks - Saguaro 4x Shackles - Tail Light Guards - AFE intake - Rola - Exhaust
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Originally Posted by AJeepZJ
It wasnt very hard to turn once it broke loose but took a bit of a push to start. That wrench I have is pretty long which helped.
To get a ratchet on there you'll need to loosen the rack mounting nuts. They're easy enough to get to but just some extra FYI that there'll be an extra step if you dont have a wrench like mine (or need to use an E20 socket)
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