True, I have upgraded mine so it is cheaper to get turned for me.
Plus I have to take to a real brake shop to have them turned because they are slotted & dimpled.
I see your point if running OEM
With turning OEM one's here where I live they charge 10.00 per rotor to turn them so equals out to 40.00 for all 4.
PJMJR508
(Happy Jeep)
I'm not sure where he lives. I'm in Canton NY, which is waaayyy up north. Like 2.5 hours north of Syracuse. Its only 20 min to the Canadian border.
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2005 WK - MY GARAGE
I'm in western NY but am up for a road trip. I get back from Mississippi on Friday.
2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
I'm pretty sure I have warped front rotors, anyone have experience with Rock Auto brake kits or rotors? Are the standard ones fine, do I really need slotted and drilled? Money is tight, since I will need tires in the near future as well
Ryan ---- 2006 WK 4.7 QDII <- Click for Garage
2.25" RR Lift - Front Bilstiens - Rear OMEs - 32" Wildpeaks - Saguaro 4x Shackles - Tail Light Guards - AFE intake - Rola - Exhaust
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Originally Posted by AJeepZJ
Go with ebc dimpled and slotted! Best rotors I've ever had.
06 4.7 | Modded 6" Lift | JBA 6" Coils | Rustys Rear UCA's | Fox Shocks | JBA UCA's | Gibson Catback w/ FM S44 Muffler | K&N CAI | Hypertech | 4.56 Gears | Powertrax Locker | Autolite Iridiums | Mobil 1 (engine&diff) | 34" BFG AT's | 20x9 Ultra Gauntlet | EBC Dimpled&Slotted Rotors | Hawk Ceramic Pads | Blue Interior LED's | Husky Floor Liners | VVME 8000k HID | Pioneer AVH-P8400BH | Tinted LED Tail Lights
Yeah but he said money is tight and EBC is expensive
2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
Centric black rotors. They're the only thing I use on my vehicles as well as customers at the shop. Dont bother with dimpled/slotted... more gimmick/bling than actual gain imo.
While they may be a gimmick, I never had any issues with the cross drilled slotted rotors I put on my supercharged Bronco and with drums in the back and the power and weight characteristics I imagine they were put to the test a number of times. I likely had 130,000 miles on them when I sold with no issues.
Don't remember the brand or model or if something compatible is available for the xk.
I agree they won't hurt anything (unless you get cheapie drilled ones that crack). My response was directly related to the question of "do i need drilled/slotted?", in which the answer is absolutely not. I've got nothing against some of the badass brakes out there (EBC/Stillen/etc)... if someone wants to run the best brakes money can buy, do it. It's part of the fun of "modding" our rigs. But for someone looking for quality brakes that wont break the bank (nice pun?), the cost/performance ratio of drilled/slotted isn't worth it.
true story. Wish i could get the crazy nice rotors...
Matt, there are a couple of those centric options on Rock Auto, which one do you run? Economy, DD?
Pads too? Seems pads on there are NOT ceramic and dust like crazy
Last edited by BonesWK; 09-05-2013 at 12:54 PM.
Ryan ---- 2006 WK 4.7 QDII <- Click for Garage
2.25" RR Lift - Front Bilstiens - Rear OMEs - 32" Wildpeaks - Saguaro 4x Shackles - Tail Light Guards - AFE intake - Rola - Exhaust
Twitter Facebook ---- Chive On
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