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Thread: OME HD at 38" in front.....

  1. #21
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    You'd put them on with the strut in the car, jack up the lca to compress the spring as much as possible and then use the compressors for more. That'll get a lot of the preload off

    Just jacking up from the lca doesnt get much of the preload because you just lift the vehicle.

  2. #22
    Senior Member Getting Dirty thance's Avatar
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    Who was it that mentioned cleaning the lint off the lense? Genius, pure genius!
    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #23
    Senior Member Getting Dirty thance's Avatar
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    I tightened down the top center strut nut as tight as I could get it using the socket within a socket technique.... 8mm socket on a 1/4" drive inside an 18mm sparkplug socket with a wrench on it. I think it's all the way down now, it seemed to come to a stop before the 18mm slipped off. We should change the original instruction sheet on installing the OME as it states to only pull that nut down a 1/4 inch leaving 4 or 5 threads on top.

    It drives over pot holes much better now (lot's of those in jersey this time of year) only banging hard on the occasional disaster. It was smacking hard on nearly all pot holes previously and I was avoiding them like the plague, though often it is impossible.

    Matt - you had asked a while back about downward travel.... When I lift up the front, center of hub to fender is 24". With it back on the ground it is about 22 3/4" leaving only slightly over an inch of downward travel. However, after lifting it up and setting it back down I am at 38" (ground to fender) in the front (even after bouncing up and down on the bumper). this seems to lower to 37 1/2" after some driving (unless the discrepancy is coming from something else) which would mean 22 1/4" once it settles and 1 3/4" down travel. .....either way it's not much!

  4. #24
    Junior Member Looking for Dirt jumpoffjoe's Avatar
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    Your truck looks great thance! I'm even more excited about mine after viewing your photos.

  5. #25
    Senior Member Getting Dirty thance's Avatar
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    Thanks Joe! I thought I had overdone it at first, but am quickly growing use to it. I have how-to's on the rear tow rings and seudo-sliders as well as the front plow-mount and receiver somewhere, possibly over on jeepcommander.com. I should start up a garage thread someday and get everything together... someday.

  6. #26
    Senior Member Getting Dirty Ross's Avatar
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    Thance, I couldn't find your rear tow ring write up on this site or jeepcommander.com. I am very interested in doing this to gain better rear tow points, if you could post up a how-to it would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks, Ross
    2008 3.7L QT-1 dark blue Jeep Commander // 3+" modified OME lift with 3/8" Rocky Road strut spacer // 4" rear SL springs // 265/70/17 Goodyear Duratracs (Load E) // 1.5" spidertraxx spacers // F-150 Monroe Load Levelers // 4xguard matrix, front guard, belly guard, and rock sliders // 130 watt KC Daylighters - 2 // Airflow snorkel // Thrush welded exhaust // Defender Roof Rack with side ladder // Hypertech Max Energy Programmer

  7. #27
    Senior Member Getting Dirty jjt250's Avatar
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    Those look like 4xGuard rear sliders.
    John
    2007 Grand Cherokee Limited | QDII | 3.0L Diesel | S4xC Shackles Mounts | Goodyear Duratracs
    Bilstein HD Front/Rear | Rusty's 1/2" Strut Spacer | Hemi XK Front/Rear Coils | HID Projectors

  8. #28
    Senior Member Getting Dirty thance's Avatar
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    They are not 4xGuard, though similar, I did them from scratch.

    This is going from memory, but I bought 2 pieces of 3/16" steel 2"x36".
    I cut them in half giving me 4 18" long pieces.
    Cut a slope on the back bottom edge, so they tapered up a little bit in the rear making the rear edge 1 1/2 - 1 3/4".
    Drilled 2 7/16" holes through each one to bolt into the rear sub frame.
    Drilled matching holes through the sub frame.
    Drilled a very large hole through the rear of each piece where the shackle connects.
    Bolted it all together.

    Cost about $14 in steel and another few for the shackles and bolts.

  9. #29
    Senior Member Getting Dirty thance's Avatar
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    Here are some pics of the rear shackle mounts:

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  10. #30
    Senior Member Getting Dirty thance's Avatar
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    Realized how scruffy they looked and applied some nice new flat black Rustolium:

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