Looks like you cut the gas tank skid deeper than I did.... does the upper control arm sit on the tank now when all the way down? I was trying to keep it a little on the skid.
On a separate note, do you have enough washers on the drop bracket?????????
I was just think that lowering the gas tank would be antiproductive to ground clearance, however, if you were to take the heat gun to it and slope the back edge where the control arm sits, you may be able to gain another inch or more of droop.
Has anyone tried this?
I dont think it'll be worth the trouble. The most you'll gain by modifying the gas tank is ~1/2" more travel, and thats assuming you're running 28" long shocks. Most shocks are 27.5" or less which means the shocks will limit travel before the gas tank does.
The next step up in shock size is not practical with our 2-3" lifts because the compressed lengths are too long.
Im not worried about the control are hitting the tank there. The tank is very thick and there's only axle weight at that point. Although if I had some foresight when I was cutting the skid I would have left just enough so the arm contacted both at full drop.
So then......... if there were more to be gained you might take the heat gun to the gas tank?????
....cuz I was just playin.
We've had members remove doors.... I put nothing past this group!
Matts right on with the shocks, however i would still put a drop bracket on the tank side brake line as well, as at that droop there is still pressure on the line, which you dont want.
Interestingly, the SL shocks in the kit are actually 28", which surprised me a bit when i got the kit. I run a 32" shock with my lift, which once you have the SL brackets on the UCA's in the rear it puts the arms in the same spot at 32" of shock extension. The shocks that come with the OME kits are under 26" in length as well.
Its the same reason i am not a fan of the JBA long arm rear for the WK. It still uses the SL brackets and straight arm UCA's on the rear, so no more travel than i have now with the standard length arms. When we go long arm on mine we are relocating the tank with an LRA tank (ends up where the spare was) and the tank will go. Its the only way you can get real articulation with these.
Oops, got a bit off track, Id recommend you do both sides with the bracket, nice job on the home fab Matt!
Dave
Dave
2007 WH Grand Cherokee CRD QDII - 3" Exhaust, GDE Flash Tune, CRDSTU Hybrid Lift & bash Plates, 4xGuard Rock Rails & Rear Sliders, Saguaro F&R Bars, Warn 9.5CTI-s, AEV Saverge Rims, 35" KM2's, Snorkel, Custom Rear Drawers, ARB Dual Compressor + On Board Air, BullyDog Monitor, Dual Optimas Front and Dual Rear Aux Batteries YouTube Vids
Thanks Dave.
Just to clarify I am doing the drivers side too. I just didn't get around to it and wanted to point out its not as much of a concern because of the limited travel. So yes, it still should be done but you're also not going to rip the line off.
When I do the drivers side im going to re-do the passenger side with a nicer bracket. That really is just a temp job but worth showing that it doesnt have to be pretty to be functional.
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