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Thread: OEM Adjustable Front and Rear Sway bar end links

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  1. #1
    Super Moderator Getting Dirty 07JeepXK's Avatar
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    I just talked to Bob and he said it wouldnt be worth making these to sell. I wasnt aware of this, but he said about 5 hours of machining went in to making the set of links. I guess they used special sleeving that was really expensive and by the time all is said and done he would have to sell them for an arm and leg to make any kind of profit. Espically because you have to start out with a new oem link. However, if anyone is interested, fixed length extended oem links would be a lot easier to make and wouldnt cost much to do so. They obviously just wouldnt be adjustable but they could be built specifically for those running spacer lifts or the OME setup.
    2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete

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    Senior Member Getting Dirty thance's Avatar
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    I'm not surprised. He likely needs a custom jig or double ended adjustable vise to hold everything together straight (I assume its straight). Setup time, time making a nice weld, grinding any lumps or other unpleasantries....... I tend to weld holes, so most of my time is spent filling them back in........ or making them bigger. Need anything welded?

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    Super Moderator Getting Dirty 07JeepXK's Avatar
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    Yeah they are perfectly straight. Turned out really nice. The welds are amazing. Sorry I couldn't hook you guys up. I'm hoping he can get me a set for the front.

    Also found out the sleeve they used was solid. Both ends had to be drilled out and the one end was then threaded. I thought the sleeve was already hollow. We did get the fronts installed tonight.
    Last edited by 07JeepXK; 02-28-2013 at 05:09 PM.
    2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete

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    Super Moderator Getting Dirty 07JeepXK's Avatar
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    Matt, I have a question for you. So we got bobs sway bar end links on. The rear were adjusted approx 2 inches longer which brought the link and sway bar to a 90 degree angle. Up front the links were adjusted to bring the front sway bar back to the factory position. Bob says that he didn't really feel a difference in body roll since the new end links were installed. My question is, when the jeep was lifted using the oem links, does this add more preload to the sway bars causing less body roll? We thought by extending them to the proper lenth the body roll would would lessen.
    2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete

  5. #5
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 07JeepXK View Post
    My question is, when the jeep was lifted using the oem links, does this add more preload to the sway bars causing less body roll?
    It doesn't add more preload, but the links at an angle decrease the mechanical advantage.

    Stiffer vs not is hard to explain here since it has to do with the rate of change of the angle as the body rolls.

    Stock 90 degree angle: The mechanical advantage to "twist" the torsion bar (sway bar) is maximized here which in theory gives an easier "roll". But what happens is as the body starts rolling, the angle decreases on one side and increases on the other, thereby reducing the mechanical advantage and "stiffening" more as the roll increases. So its a somewhat progressive body roll damper.

    Lifted with >90 degree angle: In this case both sides start with a decreased mechanical advantage over the sway bar. So it takes a bit more force to start twisting it. But in this case, the side that's compressing due to body sway will see an increase in mechanical advantage as that side is compressed. This has the opposite effect of the link starting at 90 degrees... in this case the roll resistance will decrease progressively as the roll continues.

    With your OME HD springs I don't think you'd feel much of a difference regardless since I couldn't feel a difference when I completely removed my bar after the links were damaged offroad. If I put my sway bar back on though I'll set them up with the links at the standard 90 degree angle.

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