Open Discussion - Front solid axle conversion

[Matt]

No with 2wd you'd need a tcase and the controls. Might as well get them from factory.

Edit: and just remembered you wouldnt be able to use 4 low due to programming. The drivetrain will go into limp mode. So QTII is definitely what you'd want for this swap. Id stay far away from 2wd.

And yeah... 8" with 35s would be nice

[06JeepXKHEMI]

As sick as it may be, just waaaay to much! A modified SL and 33-34s is all thats in my future, Ill get a TJ or ideally an LJ for something more extreme, Id die for an LJ, probably my favorite Jeeps, besides mine of course..

[JustinS]

I would think switching to a manual transfer case would be required....wouldn't be too hard either, just need to figure out where the handles would come up through the center console.

[Matt]

Regardless you're going to put the vehicle in limp mode when you shift into 4-low. Unless the programming becomes available (its not now) you'd need QDII or QTII if you want 4 low capabilities.

Theres a long thread on here where myself and another member were trying to think of ways to trick the computer so his NV245 swap would work. He did the swap and could shift into 4 low, but the computer puts the trans in limp mode after he starts moving.

[TrialByFire]

What if an Eaton eLocker is compatible with the SA? QDII would be fully compatible, no? My read of the manual suggests that the computer outputs a 0 - 5V analog signal to control the power transfer ratio bewtween th L & R. With the ABS sensors you should be good to go.

[Matt]

What if an Eaton eLocker is compatible with the SA? QDII would be fully compatible, no? My read of the manual suggests that the computer outputs a 0 - 5V analog signal to control the power transfer ratio bewtween th L & R. With the ABS sensors you should be good to go.

There's a few issues with trying to run an eLocker with QDII controls:

1) The eLocker solenoid would have to be the same specs or the FDCM will throw codes. It's possible that the solenoid is close enough.. but it would have to be looked into.

2) It looks like the FDCM controls the QDII with voltage pulses, not steady voltage (but not PWM either). Not sure exactly why they do this, but its what I gathered by reading the solenoid troubleshooting steps in the FSM. Pulsing voltage to the QDII solenoid might be OK for how the ergodisc functions since the solenoid basically varies a valve for variable torque control... but this may be an issue with the elocker since it'll be on/off/on/off/on/off etc.

3) The QDII ergodisc provides "variable" torque, UP to full lock. Remember that this system allows some slippage as its being activated (probably why its a pulsing signal and not constant voltage... maybe the pulses get closer together for full lock..). So when you lose traction and the FDCM sends a pulse to the diff, no big deal if you're on pavement since it just acts like an LS rear. But have an elocker in there and lose traction for a second and you're gonna go to instant full lock on the street which is not a good thing.

4) I'm not sure if the elocker is designed to be activated with the drivetrain in action. Seems like a lot of potential wear/tear using it in a QDII application. Normally lockers are engaged before entering an obstacle, not in the process of losing traction.

5) (more so an opinion here) I'd want to be able to control my e-lockers offroad.

[p@55w0rd]

As sick as it may be, just waaaay to much! A modified SL and 33-34s is all thats in my future, Ill get a TJ or ideally an LJ for something more extreme, Id die for an LJ, probably my favorite Jeeps, besides mine of course..

OK even with a Superlift you are limiting your range of travel. A solid axle has WAY more movement and will keep your wheels planted for traction. Look at the flex you get when you remove your rear anti-sway. Granted you could do a TJ, JK, or even a JKU, but you will never get the same creature comforts you get in your XK. Personally I think 10K is a bit high (maybe if you pay someone to do everything?). I believe it would be more in the $7 range if you take you time and find deals on the axles and do the work yourself.