Regardless you're going to put the vehicle in limp mode when you shift into 4-low. Unless the programming becomes available (its not now) you'd need QDII or QTII if you want 4 low capabilities.
Theres a long thread on here where myself and another member were trying to think of ways to trick the computer so his NV245 swap would work. He did the swap and could shift into 4 low, but the computer puts the trans in limp mode after he starts moving.
What if an Eaton eLocker is compatible with the SA? QDII would be fully compatible, no? My read of the manual suggests that the computer outputs a 0 - 5V analog signal to control the power transfer ratio bewtween th L & R. With the ABS sensors you should be good to go.
'06 XK Limited, 5.7 Hemi, QDII, OME struts & HD springs, JBA UCAs, 285/70R17 BFG KM2, 4XGuard Sliders, 4XGuard Diff Guard, Fox 2.0 reservoir shocks, custom bumpers and Warn xi9000
Wish list: SFA, in-dash Windows 8 PC
I would put a D44 or better in the rear.Originally Posted by 06JeepXKHEMI
When I added up the cost to build MY XK up with a super lift and all the extras I came to 5K and it still was IFS. This is one of the reasons I went out an bought a 2000 Grand Cherokee with a SFA. When I beat the crap out of this and am ready for a change I will sell the WJ and start the buildup on the XK. But in the mean time I am going to start looking for the axles. A D44 front and back would allow you to lock and gear how every you wanted. An additional item on my wish list is a long arm suspension (after a gas tank relocation). This would take the XK to a completely different level.
OK even with a Superlift you are limiting your range of travel. A solid axle has WAY more movement and will keep your wheels planted for traction. Look at the flex you get when you remove your rear anti-sway. Granted you could do a TJ, JK, or even a JKU, but you will never get the same creature comforts you get in your XK. Personally I think 10K is a bit high (maybe if you pay someone to do everything?). I believe it would be more in the $7 range if you take you time and find deals on the axles and do the work yourself.
Last edited by p@55w0rd; 03-14-2013 at 04:19 PM.
There's a few issues with trying to run an eLocker with QDII controls:
1) The eLocker solenoid would have to be the same specs or the FDCM will throw codes. It's possible that the solenoid is close enough.. but it would have to be looked into.
2) It looks like the FDCM controls the QDII with voltage pulses, not steady voltage (but not PWM either). Not sure exactly why they do this, but its what I gathered by reading the solenoid troubleshooting steps in the FSM. Pulsing voltage to the QDII solenoid might be OK for how the ergodisc functions since the solenoid basically varies a valve for variable torque control... but this may be an issue with the elocker since it'll be on/off/on/off/on/off etc.
3) The QDII ergodisc provides "variable" torque, UP to full lock. Remember that this system allows some slippage as its being activated (probably why its a pulsing signal and not constant voltage... maybe the pulses get closer together for full lock..). So when you lose traction and the FDCM sends a pulse to the diff, no big deal if you're on pavement since it just acts like an LS rear. But have an elocker in there and lose traction for a second and you're gonna go to instant full lock on the street which is not a good thing.
4) I'm not sure if the elocker is designed to be activated with the drivetrain in action. Seems like a lot of potential wear/tear using it in a QDII application. Normally lockers are engaged before entering an obstacle, not in the process of losing traction.
5) (more so an opinion here) I'd want to be able to control my e-lockers offroad.
You do realize that swapping a Dana 44 in the rear would be pointless and a waste of money right. Our axles have a ring gear of 8.25 and a Dana 44 has a ring gear of 8.50
Well unless the Dana 44 was given to you for free!
2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
I would prob do a pair of Dynatrac axles that are for a JK, sort of like you mention earlier. THe Dynatracs have upgradable components so it should be just as strong as anything else.
But you are right about the ring gear size. Actually, by the time I would have a built Dynatrac 44, I could get a built 9 from Currie. Or even better, a built and shaved 14 bolt (prob the cheaper option)
SOLD - 2005 | WK | Khaki | 3.7 | QT1 | OME HD Front Struts | Rusty's 2" lift in Rear w/ Monroe load levelers (F150 version) | 265/70 Nitto Terra Grapplers | 17" Moabs | 1.5" wheel spacers | Pinch weld mod | Rear fender trim mod | 4xG Matrix w/ reciever hitch | 4xG Belly guard | SOLID Diff cover | Cobra CB radio | 4xG CB radio antenna mount
A D44 rear isn't pointless if you come across a Rubi axle set. Sure it's only a slightly larger ring gear, but with infinitely more gear/carrier options than our 8.25.
Then again, if you're doing a build like this, might as well get something that can take the weight of a XK with the torque of a 5.7L in 4low....I'm still in an east-coast mindset and have to remind myself of some of the fun the west-cost guys have lol
No I don't. Why? Explain further? A D44 in the front and rear would be an awesome set up! This would allow your choice of gearing and lockers with the ability to handle 35" tires all day long.
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