LOL sawzall FTW!!!!
Rig is looking great man! Looking forward to following this build.
LOL sawzall FTW!!!!
Rig is looking great man! Looking forward to following this build.
SOLD - 2005 | WK | Khaki | 3.7 | QT1 | OME HD Front Struts | Rusty's 2" lift in Rear w/ Monroe load levelers (F150 version) | 265/70 Nitto Terra Grapplers | 17" Moabs | 1.5" wheel spacers | Pinch weld mod | Rear fender trim mod | 4xG Matrix w/ reciever hitch | 4xG Belly guard | SOLID Diff cover | Cobra CB radio | 4xG CB radio antenna mount
I'm sure you already plan on doing this but if that bushing is shot I'd recommend replacing it while your at it. Then never seize the hell out of the new strut fork bolt and you will never have that issue again
2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
Yep typical north east salt and grime! I have the exact same sawzall...
How's the ABS line? The one right under the SawZaw blade?
...I air chiseled the ABS sensor on my Bronco years ago...... so I know what can happen even when your aware and trying to avoid.
Also, did you try breaking it free with an impact wrench, hitting it with a big hammer, using a jack to adjust the relationship between the lower control arm and the fork?
You do still have the ball joint connected, right? I think I found it easiest with this in place, however, you have some play with the jack if it is out.
Just some thoughts before someone cuts the bolt and has to find a replacement..... though, back to the Bronco, when all else fails I've had to do the same to get out a rear shock.
I used an impact wrench on it going back and forth while periodically tapping, hittting then bashing it with a sledge for probably an hour. The only rotational movement was from the worn out rubber flexing back and forth. I tried supporting with a jack to unload pressure. That bolt was stuck. Realize it's has been through 7 winters in Northern Ohio and MI where they use a ton of salt on the roads and it has 130K miles on it. I wouldn't recommend cutting it off unless it is stuck.....and that bad boy was STUCK!!
This weekend I made some progress but not as much as Iwould have liked.
Saturday:
After removing the struts, control arms and knuckle on both sides, a buddy andI took the control arms over to his house to remove the bushings. A couplehours with his cutting torch and a big hammer we were able to get all 3bushings out of each LCA. We made a mess out of his garage floor and part ofhis driveway with all of the burnt rubber. We also removed the ball joints from both the upper and lower CA's.
We also took the struts assembly apart and then assembled the old springs onthe new OME struts and mounts.
Then it was time to take our families out to to an Irish pub for dinner andcelebrate St Paddy's Day.
Today we pressed in the new bushings and the ball joints on the LCA. We couldn't get the upper ball joints in the CA's. After about an hour I decided I would just take them up to a local shop to have them do it on their press sometime later this week.
I would recommend tightening the upper strut nut more. You should be about to see about 9 threads. If not you could get clinching from the front end
2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
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