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Thread: I am eating my words...

  1. #21
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    You are correct... the steeper the angles the quicker the parts will wear. One of the few reasons im currently running the OME with a bit of extra lift is because I have the ability to swap suspension components with relative ease.

    Though my biggest concern is the steering rack. Rack and pinions, by design, dont do well with thrust loads. They're lower maintenance than traditional steering linkage setups.... but not really ideal for how most of us are running them.

    I think you'll be very impressed with a superlifted commander offroad.... and with the size of your family that JK will probably sit for a while lol.

  2. #22
    Senior Member Getting Dirty lekmedm's Avatar
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    I just threw together some quick numbers...

    OME springs front and rear, OME shocks front and rear, JBA upper control arms, and Rusty's rear adjustable track bar is already running $1196 not including shipping. This setup still leaves bad steering angles. Now contrast that to the SL that Steel Armadillo is selling for $1550 shipped! That's without the ERG module, though.

    The only potential advantage I think the OME kit has is that the average handy home mechanic may be able to install it himself. The SL needs a professional install (unless you are uber talented and have lots of special tools). But at some point I think the up-front savings with the OME option become negligible
    2007 Commander Overland / 4" SuperLift / 285/70R17 Cooper Discoverer ST Maxx / Rusty's adjustable rear UCAs / Carolina Driveline front drive shaft / Flashpaq / DRLs & Tilting Mirrors / Autolite Iridiums / Cobra 29LX Chrome LE CB & Firestik antenna / Rear fog lights / Mopar Grille Guard with HID driving lights
    "4 wheel drive does not mean 4 wheel stop!" -Lee Goldberg, WABC TV weatherman

  3. #23
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    Eh the cost is a bit skewed. ...

    For an equivalent price to the basic Superlift you dont need the OME struts, just the springs. And there are cheaper shock options for the rear than the nitrocharger shocks. I would argue that the OME struts and better shocks than the standard superlift shocks should be added to the Superlift, especially for 5+ year old vehicles where the front struts are coming to the end of service life..

    So for that $1200 you're getting all new (and much better) shocks, struts, springs and UCAs.

    For the $1600 superlift you're left with the worn oem front springs/struts, weak oem UCAs that you'll want to upgrade eventually and basic twin tube rear shocks.
    Last edited by Matt; 05-07-2013 at 07:22 AM.

  4. #24
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    IF you do decide to go with OME.... dont get their rear springs & shocks though. If you're planning on a rear bumper & tire carrier you'll want the JBA 4" springs instead. Also, while the rear Nitrocharger shocks are a good design, they limit suspension travel more than necessary so there are better options to improve offroad performance.

  5. #25
    Senior Member Getting Dirty lekmedm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt View Post
    IF you do decide to go with OME.... dont get their rear springs & shocks though. If you're planning on a rear bumper & tire carrier you'll want the JBA 4" springs instead. Also, while the rear Nitrocharger shocks are a good design, they limit suspension travel more than necessary so there are better options to improve offroad performance.
    Cost-wise, to swap the OME rear springs for JBAs, you have to add about $70 to the costs I previously quoted. I'm sure other shocks will also be more expensive.

    $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
    2007 Commander Overland / 4" SuperLift / 285/70R17 Cooper Discoverer ST Maxx / Rusty's adjustable rear UCAs / Carolina Driveline front drive shaft / Flashpaq / DRLs & Tilting Mirrors / Autolite Iridiums / Cobra 29LX Chrome LE CB & Firestik antenna / Rear fog lights / Mopar Grille Guard with HID driving lights
    "4 wheel drive does not mean 4 wheel stop!" -Lee Goldberg, WABC TV weatherman

  6. #26
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    To do a 1:1 comparison with the cost of the superlift all you need is:
    Front springs
    Rear springs
    Rancho 5000 rear shocks ($40 each?)

    Better struts, better rear shocks and better UCAs are recommended additions to both but not required.

    Add UCAs, struts and monotube shocks to the price of the superlift if you want a better comparison to the $1200 combination you priced out. Otherwise its misleading. The superlift is a better starting point, but is still lacking.

    With the basic superlift you get:
    1- to reuse stock front struts. ... they should be replaced
    2- reuse stock UCAs.... they should also be replaced
    3- basic twin tube shocks. ... they should be upgraded if you want to offroad

    For your $1200 example you get
    1- better replacement struts
    2- stiffer springs for the front
    3- upgraded replaced UCAs
    4- quality monotube rear shocks

    Hence there are other benefits. Add the necessary components to make up for the deficiencies in the standard superlift kit and you'll be closer to $2500, not $1600.
    Last edited by Matt; 05-07-2013 at 09:02 AM.

  7. #27
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    I haven't looked really close at the superlift install but what special tools are required?

    I have noticed that the superlift still needs other (stuff). I suspect I could replace cv's and ball joints pretty quick, the steering rack isn't something I have worked much with. I am hoping we will have the commander paid for this year and then it will be easier to spend money on it.

  8. #28
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    The superlift isn't really hard to install. The only somewhat special tool needed is the ability to weld a crossmember support in place (if you have a welder then you probably also have a cutoff wheel or plasma cutter to make the necessary cuts). Other than that, its pretty straight forward.

    I would highly recommend the superlift + ome struts for the initial install, then upgrade the rear shocks at your convenience and upgrade the UCAs when the stock ones go bad.

  9. #29
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    I should be able to take care of the welding portion no problem. If that is the toughest part it shouldn't be a big deal. My front end seems to be sagging so I might have to address that sooner than later. If I go to the trouble to take it apart I may as well do the struts and maybe the uca's too. Doing that might keep me happy for a little bit. I would like to get rid of the stock side steps and replace them with a good slider. I love the look of the 4xguard and how stock they look but the SA with the step will make the wife and kids happier getting in and out. I haven't seen many pictures of them on the XK though, but haven't looked really hard.

  10. #30
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    If your front springs are sagging you may want to consider replacing them with the OME MD springs and cutting them down incrementally until you've achieved a lift height in front of 5-5.25" (so it'll settle around 4.75-5"). You'll end up with a spring rate close to the OME HD springs which will help you keep that front end up while offroading with a full family of 5.

    Oh and check out USMC1's build! He's rocking the superlift, steel armadillo sliders and rear bumper..... he'd be a good example for what yours will look like.
    Last edited by Matt; 05-07-2013 at 09:45 AM.

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