Ahhh that makes sense. I was going to say.
Ahhh that makes sense. I was going to say.
2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
Well we changed the fluids Wednesday night and there seemed to be an improvement during straight-line driving, but during turns the violent thrutching was still present unless I threw it into Neutral and coasted through the turns. Friday night while driving home, I lost drive and started hearing some ominous noises in the rear end. I pulled over, popped it into 4-LO and drove home in Limp Mode (FWD only?). A look underneath today revealed that in 4-HI the rear drive shaft is turning but the rear wheels aren't (but they 'try' a little)! Thinking the worst, I suspect the rear diff/ELSD is gone, however I am searching for alternatives so I don't bark up the wrong tree and waste a lot of $$$ and effort tearing the rear end apart. My question is, is the 'default' (i.e. unpowered) ELSD mode unlocked where there is no torque to either rear wheel? I disconnected the FDCM to reset it, then plugged it in again (no difference in behavior with it unplugged). I am now getting a U0114 code (no comm with FDCM) but I expect that to clear after a few (more) starts.
'06 XK Limited, 5.7 Hemi, QDII, OME struts & HD springs, JBA UCAs, 285/70R17 BFG KM2, 4XGuard Sliders, 4XGuard Diff Guard, Fox 2.0 reservoir shocks, custom bumpers and Warn xi9000
Wish list: SFA, in-dash Windows 8 PC
The unlocked (or "off") mode of the ELSD is equivalent to an open rear.
I'd take that diff cover off and go from there. Given your symptoms and how it just ended, it sounds like your gears are shot. Don't drive it. If you've stripped some teeth on the pinion then A LOT is salvageable (though i'd probably replace the carrier too regardless... never know where some metal shavings ended up).
I was afraid of that. Since the previous post, I checked for voltage on the solenoid and didn't see any. That just means it should be acting as an open diff, no?Originally Posted by Matt
I'll pull the cover...
'06 XK Limited, 5.7 Hemi, QDII, OME struts & HD springs, JBA UCAs, 285/70R17 BFG KM2, 4XGuard Sliders, 4XGuard Diff Guard, Fox 2.0 reservoir shocks, custom bumpers and Warn xi9000
Wish list: SFA, in-dash Windows 8 PC
Yeah... no voltage = open diff.
Got my fingers crossed for ya!!
Not good :-(
Now I get to learn a little about pulling axles and working on diffs!
It's hard to tell by the pics.... how do the ring teeth look?
If its just the spider gears, you can get a new set and be on your way in no time!
The ring teeth looked good and hardly any wear!
'06 XK Limited, 5.7 Hemi, QDII, OME struts & HD springs, JBA UCAs, 285/70R17 BFG KM2, 4XGuard Sliders, 4XGuard Diff Guard, Fox 2.0 reservoir shocks, custom bumpers and Warn xi9000
Wish list: SFA, in-dash Windows 8 PC
You may come out of this just fine for ~$200. The spider gear set looks like PN 4883087AB. So $150 for new spider gears, $30 for new diff fluid....
$100 from randys
http://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/Produc...rce=DiffWizard
Last edited by Matt; 06-16-2013 at 05:51 PM.
Awesome! Thanks Matt!
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