Uni-ball UCA's... you read that right!

[Matt]

Im not sure I follow what the issue is. The top and bottom plates can still be one piece and can be cut to the shape I outlined.

If I was making this for where I work I would model it, rotate the cup a few degrees and get the new cut profile that would simplify the compound angle for arm-to-cup interface.

The 1/8 clearance I was referring to is distance to the spring at full drop....thats not enough to account for vehicle tolerances..... I wouldn't want my arms hitting the springs while offroading.

Right now it looks like the uniball is maxed out at full droop.... I wouldn't want the uniball to be the suspension limiter; Let the strut limit full extension.

To answer your question on if I think my suggestions are "worth it"..... for an arm thats a premium price over the JBA arms id say yes.. an emphatic yes. Leave no question in anyones eyes that your arms are merely equal (if not currently inferior) to a competitor, especially an established competitor like JBA.

JBA recently redesigned their arms to optimize them for lifted WKs. Pretty sure I emailed the link to jeepforum for you to check out. He made 4 or 5 iterations to try out until they were perfect.

Just an FYI your customer is running a double-stacked lift that isnt generally recommended. When you get it back in measure the distance from center of hub to bottom of fender.... most 2-3" lifted WKs measure about 22.5".

Edit: do you have a 3D model of your arms? Id be happy to mess around with it.... you wouldn't be able to use the file since I only have a student version of ProE at home (I get a license every year as part of a mentorship I do) but I could at least get some better screen shots than ms paint lines lol

[Matt]

Find a WK with quadra-drive 2 and go offroading. ... you'll really be impressed

[AmericanMotorsports]

On my design the top plate is one piece from the front to the back holding the 2 bushing assemblies. Your design has 2 separate arms that weld to the side of the uniball cup. My design keeps the strength of the front and rear arms together as one piece and doesn't rely on the uniball cup for structural part of the arm. Its only the joint that allows for articulation. Your arm design uses the uniball cup for structural strength which the uniball cup isnt that thick and Ive seen then rip apart from off-roading and hard hits. Which isnt a good sight. My background is desert racing. So most of the reason for my designs is because of weak points Ive have encountered during my years fabricating. Hence the reason I dont rely on another manufactured part to be the structural strength of my arms. Also you dont want the strut being the limiting factor in your suspension because when the shaft blows out of the strut you arent going anywhere. You dont want ball joints over extending which cause them early fatigue and possibly breaking them. Uniballs on the other hand are made to be run at there limit and yes i do recommend running a limit strap to stop them before they 100% max out but they can max out because they are only full max out for a fraction of a sec before the suspension compresses again. Matt you have some great ideas I wish you were in California Id hire you because you really know your stuff and I could use a good man to push my mind to my limits. I dont ever stop learning. It like put these on a customers truck with just the EME HD spring lift and see where the arms sit.

[Matt]

I'll have to take a closer look at your pics when I get home tonight. ... Didnt realize yours wrap around the bushings like that; thats pretty cool!

Though I dont think my idea relies on cup strength any more than your current welds do. ... probably a fault of trying to express my thoughts as little lines lol. (Edit: I think I see what you mean now... I have an idea ill have to play with )

For limiting the suspension using the strut isn't ideal by any means.... but im leary of the aluminum around the joint taking a beating; especially with the added leverage caused by the uniball location. I can drive out with a blown strut; not going anywhere if my knuckle breaks. Thoughts?

Keep in mind we do slow speed trail riding/crawling. .. not high speed racing/jumping.

[RyanD]

I dont ever stop learning. It like put these on a customers truck with just the EME HD spring lift and see where the arms sit.

I'm currently running the OME HD lift (2") with no other suspension mods and would be happy to install, measure and give feedback. Just say the word, as I'm 90 days out from buying a set to replace my stock arms after the OME lift.