You don't need to disconnect anything other than the front diff cover. You just have to have the suspension at full droop. I've done it. Disconnecting other parts may facilitate, but I'd try simple first.
Sent from wherever my Jeep takes me.
You don't need to disconnect anything other than the front diff cover. You just have to have the suspension at full droop. I've done it. Disconnecting other parts may facilitate, but I'd try simple first.
Sent from wherever my Jeep takes me.
2007 Commander Overland / 4" SuperLift / 285/70R17 Cooper Discoverer ST Maxx / Rusty's adjustable rear UCAs / Carolina Driveline front drive shaft / Flashpaq / DRLs & Tilting Mirrors / Autolite Iridiums / Cobra 29LX Chrome LE CB & Firestik antenna / Rear fog lights / Mopar Grille Guard with HID driving lights
"4 wheel drive does not mean 4 wheel stop!" -Lee Goldberg, WABC TV weatherman
The front diff doesn't move with the front suspension so that shouldn't matter (except to lift the front of the jeep higher for more working room).
So there's enough clearance with the crossmember to remove the front diff cover? Very good to know
Umm... OK, maybe suspension droop isn't necessary, but wheels off the ground probably helps when rotating the diff. Anyway, that's what I was told they did it at the dealership, and it worked. I guess it won't work for me now with the SL front crossmember, though.
2007 Commander Overland / 4" SuperLift / 285/70R17 Cooper Discoverer ST Maxx / Rusty's adjustable rear UCAs / Carolina Driveline front drive shaft / Flashpaq / DRLs & Tilting Mirrors / Autolite Iridiums / Cobra 29LX Chrome LE CB & Firestik antenna / Rear fog lights / Mopar Grille Guard with HID driving lights
"4 wheel drive does not mean 4 wheel stop!" -Lee Goldberg, WABC TV weatherman
Yeah, to rotate the diff you need the front tires off the ground.... you also need to disconnect the front driveshaft and differential mounts which is what I was recommending.
The same process will still work for you with the superlift.
Just put it in last night, took some pics along the way, The pics are a little vague .... I think i'll make a guide.
1. Remove front skid plate(13mm)Disconnect the electrical connector for and the vent hose from the differential.
2. Drain front differential.
3. Remove front differential mount from body and from the front differential cover.(18,17,16mm)
4.Remove front differential mount on passenger side extension housing, this should give you enough room to gain access to the cover bolts.(18,16mm)
5. Remove front differential cover and let the remaining fluid drain and clean up the old RTV silicon on both the differential and cover.17,18mm?)
6. Remove 10mm bolt holding the wiring harness and disconnect the harness from the solenoid.
7.Remove the front differential solenoid by pressing the snap ring together and prying/pulling up on the old solenoid.
8 .Before installing the new solenoid lubricate the new o-ring with something, I prefer Vaseline. Install by pressing the snap ring together and pressing down on the solenoid making sure the snap ring goes into the groves of the case.
9. Install the new wiring harness and connect the electrical connector to the solenoid, It was a very tight fit and required some extra force by a set of pliers.
10. Using your RTV silicon of choice re-install the front differential cover.
11. Re-install the differential mounts and fill differential to the proper level. Test drive vehicle, If all is well and you don't have any leaks the re-install the front skid plate and enjoy your jeep!
2006 XK 4.7V8 | Quadra-Drive II |2 1/2" Lift | K&N Filter| Port and Polished Throttle Body| Magnaflow# 12256 | Leather, heated seats, Command View| Factory Tow hooks | Full factory skids | Rear D-Ring Shackle |1.25" front/1" rear spacers | JK Wheels | 245/75R17 Nitto TG
Good stuff man! Definitely make a write up of that; it'll come in useful...
It's good to see you got enough clearance by unbolting the diff mounts and didn't have to take the driveshaft off.
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