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Thread: Convert swing down to swing out

  1. #1
    Senior Member Getting Dirty hoaxci5's Avatar
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    Convert swing down to swing out

    I'm hoping to get this done when the weather warms up, trying to do it on the cheap so I want to reuse what I can.

    Currently
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    My thought
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    Cut off the "hinges" that he made, which are basically DOM tubing with bushings and a bolt through them. Reuse on on the passanger side as the hinge (this might not swing easily, but I'm not too concerned as long as it does actually move)
    and then use the other one as the locking mechanism, which I think will only need the bracket, and drilling the holes larger if needed to accept a hitch pin to keep it closed. The swing out bottom will be single piece of square tubing that I cut notches in to be able to bend it to match the contours of the bumper and reweld. Reweld the tire carrier to the swing away bar.

    Concerns and where I need some input/thoughts..
    1. The bushing hinge think it will work? Or with all that weight on it will I not be able to swing it open? They work fine currently in and up and down motion but there is no lateral forces on them to bind them up.
    2. The hitch I need to be able to use it still since it's my only vehicle with a hitch, and it's just nice to have anyways.. If I just notch/bend and reweld to go up and around do you think it will be strong enough?

  2. #2
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    I'm thinking you leave the hitch where it is.

    Keep the left lower hinge and the left upper pin mount to use as the two pin points. Cut out the right lower hinge and mount it like you plan, but have the square tubing go up and over the hitch and weld to the existing framing behind the tire.

  3. #3
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    I'd also put the swinging hinge bracket on the angled section of the bumper instead of that flat part. Save yourself a bend and gain at least 6" of mechanical advantage back which will help it swing easier.

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    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Core XK's Avatar
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    Jacob, what size tires are you running now?
    2010 Silver HEMI XK QTII

    My Garage: http://www.theultimatejeep.com/showt...re-XK-s-Garage

  5. #5
    Super Moderator Getting Dirty 07JeepXK's Avatar
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    They look like 33's to me.
    2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete

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    Senior Member Getting Dirty hoaxci5's Avatar
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    So Matt your are saying move the hinge to the angled part, check. Then square tube to about where the current passenger side hinge is and then just stop there and convert the drivers side drop down to a locking pin?

    Corey, Adam is right, 33/12.5/15's MTrs

  7. #7
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    That's correct, but you'll want to use two lock pins since the current drivers side drop down allows rotation which will result in a lot of stress on the "swing away" hing. Keeping the lock pin on the rear hatch solves that problem and the structure is already in place so it should be pretty easy.

  8. #8
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    The two orange lines would be pins. Works well since one is already a pin and the other one just needs to be converted. From there you just need to weld your pivot on the passenger side and attach it to the tire carrier structure and you're golden.
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  9. #9
    Senior Member Getting Dirty hoaxci5's Avatar
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    So when you coming over to make this happen?

  10. #10
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    Pretty sure you already agreed to join a wrench-fest at "Matts shop"

    ...then again, it's hard to turn down an excuse to visit the Dryer residence

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