I'm thinking you leave the hitch where it is.
Keep the left lower hinge and the left upper pin mount to use as the two pin points. Cut out the right lower hinge and mount it like you plan, but have the square tubing go up and over the hitch and weld to the existing framing behind the tire.
I'd also put the swinging hinge bracket on the angled section of the bumper instead of that flat part. Save yourself a bend and gain at least 6" of mechanical advantage back which will help it swing easier.
Jacob, what size tires are you running now?
They look like 33's to me.
2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
So Matt your are saying move the hinge to the angled part, check. Then square tube to about where the current passenger side hinge is and then just stop there and convert the drivers side drop down to a locking pin?
Corey, Adam is right, 33/12.5/15's MTrs
That's correct, but you'll want to use two lock pins since the current drivers side drop down allows rotation which will result in a lot of stress on the "swing away" hing. Keeping the lock pin on the rear hatch solves that problem and the structure is already in place so it should be pretty easy.
The two orange lines would be pins. Works well since one is already a pin and the other one just needs to be converted. From there you just need to weld your pivot on the passenger side and attach it to the tire carrier structure and you're golden.
So when you coming over to make this happen?
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