07JeepXK is right. There is a clip that holds it in place. You do not have to pull the diff cover to remove the axle. It is a pain in the butt to remove it some times.
07JeepXK is right. There is a clip that holds it in place. You do not have to pull the diff cover to remove the axle. It is a pain in the butt to remove it some times.
2006 Jeep Commander Limited, 4.7L, QDII, 4" Superlift Supension Lift, Procomp Xtreme Mud Terrain Tires 285 70R17, Mickey Thompson Classic ii Wheels 17X9, AEM Brute Force CAI, Superchip flashpaque, 4XGuard belly guard, 4XGuard Front Guard, Rear Grab handles and Defender Roof Rack.
thanks guys. I guess I need to see a man about a Cub then. ill keep you posted
well I don't know anyone with a cub tractor or a 3k winch but then it occurred to me that I have this in the drive
id like to say this worked but at the risk of pulling the XK off the jack stands I backed it off.
I have given up im putting it back together and taking it to the shop on Monday.
im hanging my head in shame but life it to damn short
yours is really stuck, let us know what the shop says.
PJMJR508
(Happy Jeep)
it will be going over today. to make matters worse as I was working on it I shifted the t-case into neutral thinking it would be easier to turn the shaft as I tried to remove it. now it wont shift back into gear, it just tells me 4wd needs service (no****)
thank god I have AAA
2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
I had put the t-case in neutral. it seems that once it did not register the half shaft it would not let it re-engage.
anyhow got everything up and running again. the guy at the shop just had a bigger slide hammer than me. he used a die grinder and a cut off disc to cut a hole in the stub shaft so he could get the hook of his "frame starighening" slide hammer hooked on the inside getting a more direct straight pull on the shaft. the next thing was to hook 2 bungee cords to the shaft. this he told me was to keep tension on the stub shaft so after he hit it it would kind of set up a rocking motion until the ring clip finally collapsed and come out. he did say it took about 5 minutes of hammering before it came out. once the shaft was reinstalled the t-case connected up with no problem.
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