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Thread: Dan.2005WK's Garage

  1. #31
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    So, at the recommendation of several people in this forum and in a couple other Jeep forums, I purchased a set of Kooks headers from eBay. These long tube headers and midpipes are built for the '06-'10 SRT8's, but are purported to fit. They do... sort of. There was no grinding of the transmission bell housing necessary, but there were plenty of other issues that made it a pretty damned expensive job. The shop only charged me for 9 hours of labor, but it actually took 12. First, and obviously, the cats and O2 sensors were farther back, so I needed wire harness extensions. Not too expensive, but it adds up. Second, the midpipes are 3", but the stock cats are 2.5". The stock cats wouldn't fit in the new spot anyway, so add new cats to the price. Third, they had to un-bolt the motor mounts and lift the engine to get the old log-style headers out and the new ones in (there were a couple broken bolts that needed to be removed, so it's possible that that's the only reason they had to lift the engine). Finally, and this is just a minor annoyance so far, the new headers have minimal clearance on the passenger side, so when I'm braking hard or backing up a hill, I can hear it rattling. I think it's the firewall, but haven't checked it out yet.
    It would have been far cheaper for me to have them fabricate custom headers in-house for the quoted amount of $1000. They would have left the original cats and also would have had fewer clearance issues. However, they would only have been 2.5" diameter. I think I could have lived with that, though.
    That said, they're totally badass. I can definitely feel the difference in power, and the engine revs up a lot faster. Before the cats went in, the resonators in the new midpipes gave the exhaust a very aggressive note. If you consider doing this to yours, I recommend getting your headers fabricated, cutting the y-pipe, and routing dual exhaust along the path of the original single pipe. I have a Flowmaster 50 on each pipe, and it sounds fantastic. If I did it over again, I'd use a DI/DO Flowmaster 50 to function as a crossover pipe and a Cherry Bomb resonator on each pipe after the muffler. You'd sound like a freakin' dragster, and your engine will breathe a lot better.
    My next thing will be sending my Diablo Intune off for a custom tune. When I do, I'll post the link. If you lack the patience, just Google "Diablo Intune custom tune", and you should find it pretty quickly.
    That's all from me, and yes, I know I still owe you guys a vid. Sorry about that!
    Time to fire up the grill, crack open some beers, and watch the fireworks.

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  2. #32
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Sal-XK's Avatar
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    Great info! Looking forward to the video.


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  3. #33
    Super Moderator Getting Dirty
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    Sounds like a fun mod!

  4. #34
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty 06JeepXKHEMI's Avatar
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    Man its a been awhile since Ive been around here but glad to hear you tackled this! Need that video
    2K6 Limited Jeep Green Metallic/Saddle Brown Leather XK HEMI QDII Old Man Emu HD Suspension w/ Fox Emulsion 2.0 Rear Shocks 1.5" SpiderTraxx Wheel Spacers 265/70 GoodYear MTRs w/Kevlar True Dual Exhuast w/IMCO 50 K&N 63 CAI Diablo 91/Performance Transmission Tuned SA Belly Skid MOPAR Gas Tank Skid, Transfer Case Skid, Suspension Skid Front Tow Hooks 6k HID Lows/3k Fogs

  5. #35
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    The video might be another couple days, unfortunately, and here's why:
    I had an "oooohhhh crap" moment a couple days ago. For the last 1000 miles or so, I'd get a shudder when the TCC was supposed to engage. For a little while, I thought that loading the stock tune would make it stop. It did, for like 40 miles, then it came back. It was getting very slightly worse until two days ago when I started to leave my office. I put it in reverse, and it took a second or two to engage. Same thing when I put it in drive. Then, when I was driving on the highway, it simply refused to shift into overdrive. I was doing 60-65 mph at about 3k rpm. Normally those speeds would be about 2k rpm. After a minute or two, the ECU threw codes for incorrect gear ratios in gears 2, 3, and 4. Turns out, that's known as "fail-safe" mode. Naturally, I drove it straight to the local transmission shop.
    I went in this morning to check it out and he showed me the trans pan, which had some cloudy tranny fluid and some white-ish foamy looking semi-fluid. (side note: I had had the trans fluid flushed about 2000 miles ago.) He said it looked like I got water or coolant in my trans fluid, either from condensation or from the radiator itself.
    My questions: would water in the fluid be the only cause of the issues I was having, and have any of you other fellas (or ladies) had this issue? If so, did you have to replace your radiator? Would I have to rebuild the transmission?
    Any help would be greatly appreciated. The guy has been working on transmissions for decades, but I would like to hear a second opinion before I say "eff it, do a rebuild, I have a spare kidney I can sell."

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  6. #36
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Sal-XK's Avatar
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    That sucks! I'm not a trans expert either but I would imagine you would want to make darn sure you figure out how the fluid became contaminated and fix it. From what I have heard a skipping trans with frothy fluid usually means it's done and needs to be rebuilt.


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