Got this done last night. I did have a buddy help that has done this before. That was nice. Had to get out the 3/4" drive set for the nut.
Thanks for the help 07!
Got this done last night. I did have a buddy help that has done this before. That was nice. Had to get out the 3/4" drive set for the nut.
Thanks for the help 07!
Not a problem! Glad everything worked out for you.
2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
I was just about to post to ask if anyone other than me had to replace a rear pinion seal.
I have 18,000 miles on my 07' with the Chrysler 12 bolt rear. I just replaced the seal this past Tuesday. Everything looked real good as far as pinion angle and condition of things, The seal was just leaking. The fluid level was barely below the fill hole. I thought it would have been a lot lower with the amount of diff. fluid in my garage and on the rear diff.
Is this a common problem?
- Keith -
07' RedRock Crystal Sport XK, 4.7 Flex, QDII, leather, power liftgate, remote start, moonroof, skylights, power pedals and seats, Boston Accoustics, 20% tint, Mopar skid plates, splash guards and slush guards, 2" RC lift, SpiderTrax, Kelly TSR 265/70/17 .
Yeah it's not hard to do... but you'll need a beam style in-lb torque wrench, the click-style won't work. Definitely want to make sure that you get the correct rotational resistance or else you can ruin the bearings/gears (too tight will damage the bearings, too loose will damage the gears due to pinion slop). So the price for the torque wrench is well worth it...
Money well spent: http://www.amazon.com/2955-Torque-Wr...1438124&sr=1-3
Actually... 0-60 in-lb may not be enough. That's what I would use if i was installing new gears. But for just replacing the pinion seal you'll also be turning the ring gear/carrier/axles... so you may need this one instead: http://www.amazon.com/KD-Tools-2956-...1438304&sr=1-4
I never ended up using a torque wrench and I really didnt go by the instructions for the whole rotational resistance. Haven't had any problems since the install and that was over a year ago.
2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front Modified OME HD Lift | Rear 4" Superlift | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Rysty’s Adjustable Upper and Lower Rear Control Arms w/Heim Joints | Mickey Thompson Classic III 17x9 Wheels | 315/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front Electronic Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
That sure is an expensive risk.... glad its been working out for you though. Hopefully you got lucky and got the preload correct. If you start developing a humming noise in the rear I would recommend not letting it go too long. I've seen pinion bearings seized from too much pre-load and its not pretty. And it's always the same story "yeah its been making that noise for a while, i just thought it was the tires"
Gears and bearings are something i'm extremely careful with. And I will not install them on anyones vehicles except for mine just for the simple fact that it doesn't take much to screw it up, and when you do screw it up it's not cheap.
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