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Thread: Fuel Tank Skid Install

  1. #1
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Sal-XK's Avatar
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    Fuel Tank Skid Install

    First thing I did was make sure I ran the gas down as far as I could without getting stranded. The fuel light came on so that should of gave me 4 gallons left so I pushed it a little farther and figured I was down to 3 gallons and I could handle that. Second, run to the auto parts store and pick up some plastic clips for the quick connect plugs for the fuel lines. Regardless if you have the tool to disconnect these properly or not its a good idea I broke one and one was to old and wouldn't clip up correctly so I replaced two of these this is what I used. Yes it says ford/GM on it but it's an exact replacement for ours go figure.



    Ok now on to the fuel tank.

    1. Don't put the bracket the on that comes with the fuel tank leave it off. It's the only bracket not welded to the skid. You will see why when you drop the fuel tank.

    1A. Disconnect the battery, if the fuel system gets power while your doing this not good.
    Also make sure you're well ventilated, between the fuel and chemicals (brake clean) to clean the parts the fumes can get bad. It's a good idea if you still have one mounted to drop your spare tire. Way easier with that out of the way.


    2. Release the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. On the passenger side of the rail you will see the plastic cap looks like the ones on your air stem for tires.
    2A. 5.7L bleed the fuel line pressure for the Hemi by pulling the fuel pump fuse and running the lines dry.


    I just stuck my finger nail in there like letting air out of a tire and the fuel squirted out. Just a little comes out the pressure is not much.


    2. I went and loosened all the bolts first to make sure they would break free. No need messing with plastic clips and your rig if any of the bolts are stuck. I don't have any rust so I was good no problems, but if you live up north you might want to hit the bolts with some type of penetrating spray at least the night before.

    This is the hardest bolt to get to but as you can see you can get ratchet in there to get to the bolt. You will have to take you tool off before the bolt is all the way out it gets wedged on the drive shaft so finish by hand.


    Passenger side rear bolt just use a long extension and you can use your impact to knock this one out.
    Last edited by Sal-XK; 05-10-2011 at 08:04 AM.

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    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Sal-XK's Avatar
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    3. Time disconnect some fuel lines. But first disconnect this bracket in the rear by the spare tire so you have some play in the rear lines. Now clean all the connections so no dirt gets in your fuel lines. I used brake clean to do mine.


    4 Disconnect these two lines in the rear of the fuel tank

    I left this one connected here

    Because I disconnected the other end here before you drop the tank.


    4A. Just to the right of the fuel lines in the rear is a plug that needs to be unplugged. You can see the two holes it came from it just pules right out of there. There is a red clip you need to remove and the plug will come apart.



    5. Feel the top of the tank and remove the two lines from the clips. They just pull right out of there.


    6. Disconnect the two lines in the front of the fuel tank. The one of the right in the picture has an extra red clip that needs to be removed and is also the line that will leak on you.



    7. Now the bracket I told you not to put on needs to come off the old skid first before you try dropping it. This will make it much easier to wiggle the thing out. Now that you have it all disconnected you can take out the bolts and drop the tank. If you don't have help you can use a floor jack to help you do this. I just dropped the tank on top of me and then put it down my jack was to small and I was doing this solo. Thats it reverse the process and torque the bolts to 80 foot pounds and you're good. Putting the tank in solo was a PITA. I used my jack to get one end in the air then lifted the other up and put two these two bolts in her first.

    With the passenger side brackets resting on the drive shaft and these two bolts in the fuel tank wasn't going anywhere. Then some pushing and lifting and sweating to get the other bolts in. Don't forget to put the bracket on I told you to leave off its the last one I put on.

    8. Reconnect your battery and turn the key to on. The fuel system will pressure up look for leaks. Then turn the jeep on and once again check for leaks. No leaks then you're done.
    Last edited by Sal-XK; 04-24-2011 at 09:05 PM.

  3. #3
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Sal-XK's Avatar
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    Ok problems with this to avoid.

    1. Have spare fuel disconnect clips on you. I had to send the wife to get mine because I had some beers while doing the install and could not drive.
    3. Have a jack or something that can hold the tank up. A trans jack or motorcycle jack or something.
    4. lots of ventilation, between gas and brake clean (beer) even with the garage open I got a little sick
    5. Have a few extensions and a universal, then you can use your impact for almost all the bolts.
    6. Get a second pare of hands as a solo job it was hard.
    7. Be prepared for the tank to be stuck in the old skid. Mine had dirt compacted around it holding it in.

    I think thats it not a bad install but could of used some help which would of made this an easier install.
    Last edited by Sal-XK; 04-24-2011 at 09:13 PM.

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    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Sal-XK's Avatar
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    I didn't know about the fuel tank needing to notched out until after I was done so I did months afterwards. Don't forget to file down all the edges after you're done.







    This is the piece that I cut out
    Last edited by Sal-XK; 12-23-2011 at 01:12 PM.

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    Senior Member Getting Dirty cico7's Avatar
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    Nice job Sal! Excellent job of documenting the install.

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    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Sal-XK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cico7 View Post
    Nice job Sal! Excellent job of documenting the install.
    Thanks bro I appreciate it.

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    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Matt's Avatar
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    Good info man.

    Was the driveshaft in your way at all? I was planning on taking it off when I do mine. Only takes a few minutes.

    Edit: then again I also have a motorcycle jack to lift/support the tank so I wont need it like you used for support.

  8. #8
    Lifetime Member Getting Dirty Sal-XK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt_ View Post
    Good info man.

    Was the driveshaft in your way at all? I was planning on taking it off when I do mine. Only takes a few minutes.

    Edit: then again I also have a motorcycle jack to lift/support the tank so I wont need it like you used for support.
    It's really only in the way for one bolt. The passenger front bolt, my torque wrench would not fit and my 1/2" drive ratchet would not fit either had to use my 3/8" drive. That's the only one that I had issues with. I was able to get the impact on every other bolt for the skid.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for taking the time to put this together. Amazing job!
    2006 XK Limited, 5.7L Hemi
    Dark Khaki, QDII, Rocky Road 2.25" lift, Steel Armadillo front bumper with Warn PowerPlant winch, Steel Armadillo rear bumper w/ tire carrier, Rock Sliders, Light Bar & Front Fender Tube Fenders, 4xGuard belly skid plate & rear differential guard, BFG M/T A/T 255/75R17s on Rubicon rims, Spidertrax 1.5 inch wheel spacers, Rhino Rack Pioneer Tray with FoxWing Awning, Superchips VIVID Programmer, Air Flow snorkel, Steel Armadillo Secure Console, Cobra CB Radio, Lock Pick Video Programmer, ASFIR Skid Plates.

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  10. #10
    Senior Member Getting Dirty Chapman89's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the information and pictures! It doesn't look too bad, but I can definitely see how a second pair of hands would make it easier.
    Current: 2013 Dodge Challenger R/T 6 Speed

    Traded: 2006 XK Limited 5.7 QD-2

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